Fuse: 12A 250V replaceable?

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  #1  
Old 05-18-06, 09:49 PM
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Fuse: 12A 250V replaceable?

my washer has a speed control board (PCB) and the fuse on it is dead... its a 12A 250V buss type with an opague white center section (instead of a clear glass center)...

i cant find a 12A replacement, only a 10A, is there any point in putting a 10A in there to test?

the fuse was very difficult to remove from its holder AND the troubleshooting guide suggests: 'if the fuse is bad replace the board' any point in looking for a replacement fuse at all? the board is $150-...

thanks very much!
 
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  #2  
Old 05-18-06, 10:05 PM
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You can probably test with the slightly smaller fuse, but the problem is... Why did the fuse blow? You probably have a bigger problem somewhere else. Is there some kind of drive motor that pulls current through that fuse? I see this exact problem on welding machine wirefeeders. A variable speed DC motor for the wire and when it blows the 5A fuse near the board, it's because the motor is seized and needs to be replaced.
 
  #3  
Old 05-19-06, 06:30 AM
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How can I determine if this is a Fast Acting or a Slow Acting fuse???

thanks
 
  #4  
Old 05-19-06, 06:19 PM
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10A blew right away, as soon as the washer cycle was started... guess i need to test this motor...
 
  #5  
Old 05-19-06, 06:55 PM
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How can I determine if this is a Fast Acting or a Slow Acting fuse???
The fuse designation on a slow blow should be 12AS instead of 12A.
 
  #6  
Old 05-19-06, 09:25 PM
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thanks!

can i use a clear glass 12A fuse in place of a ceramic type? both are 12A 250V, same physical dimensions... 12A is not common in my area

thanks
 
  #7  
Old 05-20-06, 05:09 AM
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The glass type fuse is not likely to hold up to the same ammount of vibration as the ceramic fuse. For testing purposes it should be fine.
 
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Old 05-20-06, 06:21 AM
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Hello,
TRy to locate the proper fuse if you can. The manual says "replace" board, Hopefully just for sales prurposes.
You mentioned it was hard to remove and also that you tried the 10 A. So we can assume it can be replaced. Thats good.
Now while the machine is open, I would next check the motor.
UNPLUG the cord. Remove the drive belt and try to spin the shaft, This will determine if the motor is seized. If it is spinning free then it could be that the motor has simply gone bad.
So price it up. It may be cheaper, However the posability still exists, you may wind up buying both parts.
Good luck, And post back
 
  #9  
Old 05-20-06, 04:46 PM
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thanks all...

motor spins free and resistences check out... just waiting for a fuse with our fingers crossed...

troubleshooting guide starts with checking power cord and a/c power then switches and next power thru the board that holds this fuse, if there is no power at the board it refers back to a switch (timer line switch) is that a common electrical part? i can't locate it on the schematic... strange that it doesnt test the fuse on this board first... when i found no power reading i assumed the guide was correct and replaced the timer, when that didnt fix the thing i continued down the troubleshooting guide and checked the fuse and motor resistence and found the fuse bad...

thanks again
 
  #10  
Old 05-20-06, 04:46 PM
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deleted my repeat post...

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