GE Dryer wont start

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  #1  
Old 05-20-06, 02:11 PM
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Question GE Dryer wont start

I have a ge dryer that i just replaced a heating element in. Now that i have replaced it and tried to start dryer i get nothing. I can hear the timer running but when i turn start button, nothing. I jumped out the door switch and thermal fuse and still nothing. I also checked all switch and fuses for continuity and they are fine. I didnt know how to check timer switch though. Can anyone help?
Thanks, Bob
 
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  #2  
Old 05-20-06, 02:30 PM
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Did you check power coming to the unit. You need to have 240 volts between the hots. It sound like one of your hot wires is dead. Check the fuses or breaker in the panel.
 
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Old 05-20-06, 03:35 PM
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Sounds like you oght to check the connections of the heat ellement. ( It worked before that, except for heat, RIGHT) That is the only thing that has changed. CORRECT?

ALWAYS START where you left off !!!!!
 
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Old 05-20-06, 03:41 PM
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Did you also jump the start switch itself?

And yes, about the 240 suggestion. Also check neutral pathway as motor will utilize 120 and neutral.

The motor utilizes a centrifugal switch and usualy these cannot be bought separetly. New motors with the switch cost about $100 give or take some.

My method for diagnosing timers is to steal one from another like unit when I can, and try it. Short of this, you'd better be a good enough reader of schematics to figure out where the power comes and goes to get to the right multi-wire plug in at the centrifugal switch/motor jack.

You didn't even hear the motor hum though?
 
  #5  
Old 05-20-06, 05:01 PM
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Checked the element and connections are fine and this is the only change. Still no go. Motor does not hum. I dont have a clue on how to check for 240. Can i use my ohm reader or is it not enough? I checked for loose wires at plug in and also fine. How would i know if breaker is bad?
Thanks for help, Bob
 
  #6  
Old 05-20-06, 06:34 PM
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You mean to say that you have posted all these tests with the jumpers yet don't know how to use or own a multimeter? The first thing you need to check is the 240 volts at the recepticle first, then move on from there. In theory, you could be getting 120 to a piece of your timer, yet not have power on the OTHER 120 line that powers your motor. And you need the two 120 lines, working together, to create the 240 volts to heat up the element.

IF you only unplugged two or three wires that directly plug into the element, I can't see how the element could make the motor not go. But if you have one of those set ups where there are various electrical wire fork-offs by the element, going to those various disc stats...it is conceivable that if you undid one of those and switched an elemnt wire with a stat wire, which may feed to the timer, then perhaps that indeed could be your cause, as suggested above.
 
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Old 05-20-06, 06:34 PM
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You mean to say that you have posted all these tests with the jumpers yet don't know how to use or own a multimeter? The first thing you need to check is the 240 volts at the recepticle first, then move on from there. In theory, you could be getting 120 to a piece of your timer, yet not have power on the OTHER 120 line that powers your motor. And you need the two 120 lines, working together, to create the 240 volts to heat up the element.

IF you only unplugged two or three wires that directly plug into the element, I can't see how the element could make the motor not go. But if you have one of those set ups where there are various electrical wire fork-offs by the element, going to those various disc stats...it is conceivable that if you undid one of those and switched an elemnt wire with a stat wire, which may feed to the timer, then perhaps that indeed could be your cause, as suggested above.
 
  #8  
Old 05-20-06, 06:35 PM
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You mean to say that you have posted all these tests with the jumpers yet don't know how to use or own a multimeter? The first thing you need to check is the 240 volts at the recepticle first, then move on from there. In theory, you could be getting 120 to a piece of your timer, yet not have power on the OTHER 120 line that powers your motor. And you need the two 120 lines, working together, to create the 240 volts to heat up the element.

IF you only unplugged two or three wires that directly plug into the element, I can't see how the element could make the motor not go. But if you have one of those set ups where there are various electrical wire fork-offs by the element, going to those various disc stats...it is conceivable that if you undid one of those and switched an elemnt wire with a stat wire, which may feed to the timer, then perhaps that indeed could be your cause, as suggested above.
 
  #9  
Old 05-20-06, 06:38 PM
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You mean to say that you have posted all these tests with the jumpers yet don't know how to use or own a multimeter? The first thing you need to check is the 240 volts at the recepticle first, then move on from there. In theory, you could be getting 120 to a piece of your timer, yet not have power on the OTHER 120 line that powers your motor. And you need the two 120 lines, working together, to create the 240 volts to heat up the element.

IF you only unplugged two or three wires that directly plug into the element, I can't see how the element could make the motor not go. But if you have one of those set ups where there are various electrical wire fork-offs by the element, going to those various disc stats...it is conceivable that if you undid one of those and switched an elemnt wire with a stat wire, which may feed to the timer, then perhaps that indeed could be your cause, as suggested above.
 
  #10  
Old 05-20-06, 06:42 PM
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Sorry, there is something goofy going on. Do any of you have simialar sporadic problems with the board that cropped up today?
 
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Old 05-20-06, 09:53 PM
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DON'T make it more than it is!
You have checked ALL conections that you have messed with,?
YES? NO? If it worked before it should work now. My guess.... You have opend up a safety switch some where along the line.
NOW...... Why did you go to the heating eliment?
Did the dryer work before you did this? (should of asked this first)
 
  #12  
Old 05-21-06, 10:44 AM
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dryer worked fine before i changed element. It was burnt off and wasnt heating right. After i put it all back together all that will work is the timer. I took it apart about 3 times to check wires and connections. I will have to check for 240.
 
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