New Service & Grounding question(s)

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  #1  
Old 05-24-06, 01:29 PM
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Arrow New Service & Grounding question(s)

Hi all,

So I am doing a 100A to 200A. I have studied my a$$ off using both the NEC (05) and a "helper" book. Have my permit pulled and am a little unsure on a few things.
First the grounding. I have 2 8' foot copper (coated) rods at exactly 6 feet apart. I have a armored 6awe line connecting the 2 rods (I think I need to swap that out with 4awe bare copper...) I am planning on running another line from the closer of the two rods, to the actual Neutral buss bar. The distance from the closer of the 2 rods to the new service entrance will be about an 8 foot run. I am still expecting to come well under 25 ohms. Now, I originally was going to put the 2 rods in the earth next to the copper water main going into the house. I got one rod in, but couldn't get the second one in.....the footing was extended after the Northridge earthquakes, and couldn't get it in. So I have one rod going in, and connected to the main water line (no regulator, just a brass ball valve, in case u were wondering

So I believe I have to make the connection from the new panel's Neutral buss bar, to the cold copper water line. Can I run an armored 4 awe (or 6) bare copper line from the Neutral buss about 35 feet to the nearest cold copper line? There is a water softener, and I do plan on installing a jumper. Do I need to jump the Hot water as well? I think NEC calls for just the buried cold line (not sure where it was in the book, not in front of me now)

Next, this is a 200A service, Edison already came out and approved the location, and will be shutting PWR (down the street) Friday morning, I will have the inspector coming towards the end of Friday....They do not work on Sat, and Monday is a holiday. There can be no mistakes as to not getting this signed off, so Edison will power me back up.

The Service Entrance:
2" metal conduit carrying 2/0 220 to the house. When I disconnect the existing box and connect the new box, do I need to have a bonded ground-able nut? (not sure if that is the right term, but basically it's a nut that threads on the NMT, and has a spot to secure a ground wire (which goes to the neutral buss bar))

Next, will my inspector pass me, if the stucco repair surrounding the SECURED 200A panel is not finished?

Next, I will need to extend some of the existing Romex and original house wiring to the branch breakers and Neutral buss, can I just use a wire nut and extend the line with the same AWE and type rated wire? Do I have to reroute all the wires that need extending to a junction box, and do the extensions from their? If so, what does code say about location and distance from new panel. The panel will be semi flush on the exterior of the far end of the house. The service is feed from underground, and 95% of house wiring will be fed from the TOP.

Next: The pull cavity, where the 1/O lines come up from and make their connection to the meter lugs, what if I need to extend then a few inches to reach the new meter's lugs? And is there some kind of overcorrect inline fuse at that point? Right now, the 1/O comes into the panel (from the bottom left) and makes a zig zag to the left and right (inside the pull cavity) just as it turns to go up to the 100A meter lugs, there is a bunch of E tape, and the line is down sized to 2awe...maybe it's 4awe. I was wondering if there was some inline fuse there. Don't understand why there would be one, but was wondering.

Next: do the breakers need to be identified before sign off?

Lastly, the existing panel is 4.5" thick. The new one is just over 6.5" thick. I read in the NEC that the panel cannot sit inside the exterior wall any more than 1/4", but it made NO references to how far out it could protrude, given this is a semi flush install. If I flush the panel, I would have to open up the drywall on the opposite side, so the back of the new panel can sit flush, I could simply build out the back of the protrusion in drywall, thus allowing for a cleaner (front side) looking install of the panel.

I know this is a lot, and I am 85% confident on this job being a complete success. Just worried a bit about the inspection.....
Your thoughts and experience is greatly appreciated...thx!
 
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  #2  
Old 05-24-06, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by selncell
I have a armored 6awe line connecting the 2 rods (I think I need to swap that out with 4awe bare copper...)
Correct. 200A service needs #4 copper GEC.

I am planning on running another line from the closer of the two rods...
The water main plus one additional rod is sufficient. A second rod is allowed, but not required.

So I believe I have to make the connection from the new panel's Neutral buss bar, to the cold copper water line. Can I run an armored 4 awe (or 6) bare copper line from the Neutral buss about 35 feet to the nearest cold copper line?
No. You must run #4 copper to the point at which the main cold water line enters the building; it must be connected within 5' I believe. Any old place on the cold water system is not acceptable. The GEC from the main panel to the water main should be continuous -- no splices.

There is a water softener, and I do plan on installing a jumper. Do I need to jump the Hot water as well?
All of the copper should be bonded; this requires installing a jumper over any non-conductive break in the plumbing such as water softener, water meter, water heater, CPVC couplings, etc.

do I need to have a bonded ground-able nut?
Depends on your POCO policy; here you would not, but some areas require it.

Next, will my inspector pass me, if the stucco repair surrounding the SECURED 200A panel is not finished?
Probably, but it's up to him. Personally, I don't see why he wouldn't.

I will need to extend...with the same AWE and type rated wire?
Yes.

Do I have to reroute all the wires that need extending to a junction box, and do the extensions from their?
Only if the existing Romex does not reach to the new panel. If it does reach, then use a wirenut to extend each conductor in the main panel. If it doesn't reach, make a splice to a new piece of Romex in a permanently accessible junction box; there is no maximum/minimum distance for the splice.

Next: The pull cavity...
Not quite sure what you're saying here.

Next: do the breakers need to be identified before sign off?
Some inspectors enforce this, some do not. Technically, they should be labeled. If nothing else, the MAIN DISCONNECT should be labeled as such.
 
  #3  
Old 05-24-06, 03:10 PM
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> the MAIN DISCONNECT should be labeled as such.

In this case, SERVICE DISCONNECT.
 
  #4  
Old 05-24-06, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by ibpooks
Correct. 200A service needs #4 copper GEC.

250.66(a) a #6 copper is all that is needed to a ground rod.
 
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