Electric dryer outlet how to test

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  #41  
Old 07-10-06, 08:38 PM
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Do lightswitchs have to be grounded.If so I can check those as they are easy for me to get at. A lot of the outlets are behind heavy furneture and I really don't want to move them.
 
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  #42  
Old 07-10-06, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by HandyRon
Bob,
As somewhat of a side note for clarification related to your post from a few days ago;
Jurisdictions that have adopted the 2005 National Electric Code [210.8(A)(7)] now also require GFCI's in a dwelling for receptacles as follows:

Laundry, utility, and wet bar sinks where the receptacles are installed within 1.8 m (6 ft) of the outside edge of the sink
Ron, you missed my point. What I wanted to say is that the code for kitchens and for bathrooms does not depend on there being a sink.

All kitchen counter top receptacles must be GFCI protected, whether there is a sink nearby or not, even a section of counter across the room where there is no sink.
 
  #43  
Old 07-10-06, 10:54 PM
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Should I check the lightswitch's or stick with the outlets I got 2 on the back kictchen wall.hooked in a series meaning if the outlet near the back room fails or a wire comes lose both go out.Should I check these to see if there are grounded.
 
  #44  
Old 07-10-06, 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by furd

There is another connection on the top right of the neutral/ground bus that appears to be either aluminum or copper. This appears to also be type SE cable in conjunction with the bottom two plug fuses (30 ampere) which I assume (always a dangerous thing to do) are serving either an electric water heater or a small kitchen range.

.
The two (2) 30 AMP fuse's at the bottem controll the outlet in the back room that has the washer and dryer (gas) hooked up. The other goes to what I thought was a 240 electric dryer plug. What else they power I don't know. The furnace has its own fuse (gas furnace) and is marked furance.

If you look at the first picture going from left to right
its wire as follows

1.Kitchen 2.laundry

3. Dining room 4. bedroom

5. Kitchen lighting/living room 6. bedroom

7 Blank 8. Blank

9. furnance. 10.disposal.(outlet under sink not GFCI)

11. 30A dryer 12. 30A dryer
 
  #45  
Old 07-11-06, 07:04 AM
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Now since the bath room did not have a ground wires does this mean the rest of the outlets are not or should I cheack anyway.
 
  #46  
Old 07-11-06, 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by lexmarks567
The two (2) 30 AMP fuse's at the bottem controll the outlet in the back room that has the washer and dryer (gas) hooked up. The other goes to what I thought was a 240 electric dryer plug. What else they power I don't know.
This statement concerns me. An electric washer and a gas dryer should not be in any way shape or form directly protected by a 30 amp fuse. Please verify this. The washer and gas dryer should be on a 15 or 20 amp circuit.

Also, please tell us the size (amp rating) of ALL the fuses in your box. I cannot see the rating in the picture, and the various colors concern me.
 
  #47  
Old 07-11-06, 08:49 AM
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Going from left to right

1. 20 AMP 2. 20 AMP

3. 20 AMP 4. 15AMP

5. 15 AMP 6. 15 AMP

7. BLANK 8. BLANK

9. 15 AMP 10. 15 AMP

11 30 AMP 12. 30 AMP

all are type S and say D after the amp (I.E 15 AMP D) they are all time delay a few say non-tamp fuse the 30 amps are type SL it was updated and the guy put in the 30 amps by putting in the adapters that once screwed in can't be removed.Im sure he updated the wires to handle it has he removed the panel Who knows I really wasn't watching.
 
  #48  
Old 07-11-06, 08:57 AM
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Do the 30 amp fuses really protect the washer and the gas dryer? If so you have a serious issue.
 
  #49  
Old 07-11-06, 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by racraft
Do the 30 amp fuses really protect the washer and the gas dryer? If so you have a serious issue.
Im not sure I know one controlls the 240v outlet that I thought was a dryer outlet. How do I check. remove it and see what stops working.I don't want to do that incase it controlls somthing not marked like the water heater cause they are a pain to relight.
 
  #50  
Old 07-11-06, 09:16 AM
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Ok did the math the washer and dryer total use 15.8 Amps when running together
 
  #51  
Old 07-11-06, 09:25 AM
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You need to find out what powers the washer and gas dryer. If it is the set of 30 amp fuses, then you have a serious problem and I suggest you NOT use them and call an electrician.
 
  #52  
Old 07-11-06, 09:40 AM
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Racraft I pulled out BOTH 30 AMP fuses and the washer still fires up so I don't think they controll anything. the washer and dryer are on the same outlet
 
  #53  
Old 07-11-06, 09:56 AM
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Then the 30 amp breaker protects the range outlet you are looking to convert into an electric dryer receptacle.
 
  #54  
Old 07-11-06, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by racraft
Then the 30 amp breaker protects the range outlet you are looking to convert into an electric dryer receptacle.
Is that good or bad or will it do for now since it was up to code when it was installed. Also racraft if you super size the first pic you can see the fuse rateings and the wireing.
 
  #55  
Old 07-11-06, 08:51 PM
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I will check the rest of the outlets and lightswitchs for grounding.If you supersize the first pic you can see the way the box is wired and the rating on the fuses.
 

Last edited by lexmarks567; 07-12-06 at 01:51 AM.
  #56  
Old 07-12-06, 01:51 AM
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OK I checked a light switch the switch itself its not grounded (does not have a grounding screw) but the box is.There is a bare copper ground going to a screw in the back of the box then going into the wall down to the outlet it controlls (Im guessing does this sound right).

Oh and although it don't matter I was thinking of replacing the gas dryer with electric for a change of pace but since I don't have a dyer hook up right now I just got the old gas dryer fixed. see this thread http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=269469
 

Last edited by lexmarks567; 07-12-06 at 02:04 AM.
  #57  
Old 07-12-06, 05:59 PM
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Well I guess were done and everthing seams fine thanks for your help
 

Last edited by lexmarks567; 07-20-06 at 11:56 AM.
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