Wiring on new pump

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  #1  
Old 07-18-06, 12:40 PM
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Wiring on new pump

I posted this on the pump page (with a different title) and got no answer, so I thought I'd try here.

We just purchased a Red Lion 1hp utility pump. It had no wiring instructions (said to call an electrician) and had two wires with those flattened connectors on them.

The pump is dual voltage....... 115/230v. We are using 115v. The supply cable is 250' of 10/2 w/ground. The voltage going into the pump is 115-120.

The wires coming out of the pump were both painted red. We cut off the connectors and wired the white to L1 terminal and the black to L2, ground to green screw.

We moved the gizmo that determines voltage requirements from the top position to a lower one.

The pump runs, but doesn't pull water from a 13' well with a 2" casing. A gas pump will pull the water, so we know it's available.

Can we have it wired wrong?

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
 
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  #2  
Old 07-18-06, 02:18 PM
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What caused you to move the voltage selector plate? Were you guessing or did the pecker head instructions say so? Moving it may have it wired for 240 volts, but you need to know for sure. If you could post a picture of the pecker head, maybe we can determine how to get water out of the well.
 
  #3  
Old 07-18-06, 02:24 PM
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Thanks for the reply, Larry.

The pump was labeled as wired for 230 and had lousy instructions for changing to 115v, but I gave it my best shot.

I just got off the phone with Monarch/Red Lion and he said we had it wired correctly and it was probably a faulty pump. His recommendation was to return it. I thnk the clincher was when I told him it wouldn't even squirt the priming water out. Guess that's what we'll do.

Thanks for the help.
Robin
 
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Old 07-18-06, 06:21 PM
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Robin: glad you got good reply from mfgr. Let us know if we can help once you get the replacement.
 
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Old 07-18-06, 07:03 PM
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Give me model number I give you answer
 
  #6  
Old 07-19-06, 11:53 AM
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No water? What the Hey!!

First, the L1 is usually the BLK and L2 is the WHT wire. A 1HP
pump will run better on 220V than 110V. Now the best part.
Pumps have a design curve and this curve tells you how many
gallon of water per minute that can flow at what pressure. Your
system appears to be an open system ( water comes out of the
well and is pumped somewhere else) as compared to a closed
system (water circulates in a closed loop). Pressure is measured
in feet of head. 1PSI=2.34FT/HD. You are asking the pump to
raise water 13' and then move it at a flow rate of so many gal
per min. This pump may not be capable of doing that. It may
not be capable of raising water 13' in an open system with the
pump wired correctly, let alone creating a flow out the volute.
You may need a High Head pump. An electric pump revolves at
a fixed rpm. A gas motor pump will vary with the motor's rpm.
more gas=more rpm=more head. Hope this helps

After re reading your thread, I wonder why you are running it on 110V rather
than 220V. The conductor is there, you just need a 2 pole breaker properly rated.

GASP!

I just stumbled across your original thread on the internet. Why didn't you post that here. That ought to raise some eyebrows here, especially the wire splicing that the mouse ate through. You have a Red Lion rlsp-100 sprinkler pump, I assume. It is self
priming to 25 ft. Do you have the correct connections to the imput and output of the
pump? Do you have a check valve, is the check valve facing in the correct direction, on the output and an air relief valve 3/4" on the output, too. It sound as if your not priming. Is the impeller turning when the motor kicks on? Is air getting into the
intake line? Is the well point or strainer clogged with debris? You don't have the well
point or strainer sitting on the bottom of the well against the soil do you? The pump imput is in the center of the pump and the discharge is out the top, it is not pumping backwards? Sometimes there is a coupling between the motor shaft and impeller and
it is connected with allen screws to each shaft maybe they were never tightened.
 

Last edited by IBigBob; 07-20-06 at 07:10 AM.
  #7  
Old 07-20-06, 11:17 AM
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Thanks for the replies, folks.

Yes, this is the Red Lion RLSP-100. We're running it on 115V because that was the set-up for the other pump, including a switch at the house for turning it on and off. We don't have a switch for 230v. The manufacturer said running 230v wouldn't improve it's performance. It is getting 115-120v at the end of the line.

This pump is supposed to be able to lift 25ft, we're only asking it to lift 13ft. All connections are correct, we are not new to pumps. This is very similar to the set-up for our house water where a 1/2hp pump has been happily supplying us with water for 27 years (well, I replaced the pump once).

We put the white on L1 because it is written, right below it, that L1 is neutral on the 115v. Still wrong? The wires on the pump were both white, they painted them both red.

Re the splice, it will be replaced with 10 ga and a taller conduit.

Thanks for the help.
 
  #8  
Old 07-20-06, 11:38 AM
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The manual that I am seeing doesn't show L1 etc it shows 3 pins in a row. By default the outer 2 are used to convert you need to use the middle and what appears to be right labled in pic as 115V. As long as you used the center tap and 115V labeled pin you didn't cuz the pump to fail.

As for color that is for electrical wiring etiquette. You cannot damage the pump by switching these to wires. There is no polarity on AC voltage, because correct answer for polarity is its both. Thats why they use the term hot and neutral.
 
  #9  
Old 07-20-06, 11:43 AM
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Also you said it didn't have the manual if you have internet access you can get it from here

http://www.redlionproducts.com/v4/pumps_water.htm
 
  #10  
Old 07-20-06, 02:55 PM
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Thank you, snuckers99, I'm glad to hear reversing the wires won't cause damage.

This is a new pump, and it came with a manual, but all it said about the wiring is "have an electrian do it". The diagram for switching from 230 to 115 is on the motor casing and doesn't depict the actual set-up, so I had to take my best guess...... happily, it was correct.

Inside the wiring compartment, the pegs run vertically. L2 is at the top, that is where the plug was for 230v. Then there's a terminal in the center and one at the bottom.... the bottom one is labeled L1 and under that is printed "L1 is neutal in 115v". That is why I thought the white wire should go there.

To switch to 115v, the plug bridges L1 and the center terminal.

We'll try the pump again, before returning it as Red Lion service suggested. But first, we have to do something to increase the water flow to the well.

Thanks for the help.
 
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