Replacing elec. cooktop (220v) with gas cooktop

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Old 10-26-06, 04:35 AM
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Question Replacing elec. cooktop (220v) with gas cooktop

Greetings all,

I am replacing an electric cooktop with a gas one.
I have a 4-wire cable coming from the circuit braker - red, black, white and ground.
I have 240v between the red and black, but ZERO between either the red or black and the white one.

Is there a way to make 110v out of this without a major wiring job (or working on the braker)??

Thanks!
 
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Old 10-26-06, 05:02 AM
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If you are comfortable working in the breaker box remove the front cover and check for the white wire. Turn off the main breaker before pulling the cover and remember even with the main breaker off there are exposed live components. (Good idea also to keep one hand in your pocket.) Do you get 120v between ground and red or black. If not you need to check the ground at panel also.
 
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Old 10-26-06, 05:07 AM
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Hmmm...what do you mean "check" for the white wire?
 
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Old 10-26-06, 05:08 AM
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The white wire needs to be connected to the neutral bar in the main panel. You need to open the panel and determine if it is.

Once you get the 120 volts between each hot wire and the white neutral, then you can, if you want, rewire and install a 120 volt receptacle.

To do this you will need to replace the 240 volt receptacle with a 120 volt one, and cap either the red or the black wire which will be unused. You will also have to replace the 240 volt breaker with a 120 volt breaker of either 15 or 20 amps. The unused red or black wire should then be capped at the main panel.

Because larger wire may not attach the 120 volt receptacle properly, you may have to pigtail a piece of either 12 or 14 gage wire (depending on 20 or 15 amp circuit) to the larger wire to make the receptacle connections.
 
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Old 10-26-06, 05:34 AM
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OK. I got it...the white wire was indeed disconnected (don't know why, but I am sure there is a good explanation to that )
I connected it to the netural bar and I now have 120v between the red/white and black/white.

Thanks a million!!!
 
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Old 10-26-06, 05:40 AM
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To add to what Raycraft has said if the cooktop was 240V only then the neutral may have intentionally not been connected at the panel since it was un-needed. You must also be sure you have a good ground.
 
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Old 10-26-06, 09:52 AM
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Yes, I have a good ground. I did check that and everything seems to perfect.

Thanks guys!!
 
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Old 10-26-06, 04:38 PM
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And you did change the breaker as recommended? Just beuing sure.
 
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Old 10-26-06, 04:49 PM
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Question

And you do have a properly grounded electrical box to mount the new rec. in. Right?
 
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Old 10-26-06, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by classicsat
And you did change the breaker as recommended? Just beuing sure.
Hmmm...no, not yet. Why do I have to do that?
 
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Old 10-26-06, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by lectriclee
And you do have a properly grounded electrical box to mount the new rec. in. Right?
Yes, I put a GFCI and it's properly grounded.
 
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Old 10-26-06, 08:02 PM
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It is necessary to change the breaker to match the max ampacity of the 120V receptacle. 20 amps is OK for a 15 amp receptacle if it is duplex but the pigtails you used to reduce the wire size (if used) must be #12. If you used #14 wire and/or a single style 15 amp receptacle you would need a 15 amp breaker.
(The last is unlikely but just covering the possibilities.)
 
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Old 10-26-06, 08:08 PM
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I used #14 and a 15 amp GFCI, and capped the red at the junction box (underneath the cooktop).
I don't know what's the load of the cooktop ignitor and of course it is usually used for one second.

Does this (current setting) create an immediate risk, can the breaker replace wait for the coming weekend?
 
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Old 10-27-06, 02:41 AM
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You need to disconnect the red and cap at the breaker box also. You need to immediately change the breaker to 15 amp. You could use a 20A assuming a duplex GFCI if you use #12 pigtails. I know it sounds a bit strange but the code permits 15A receptacles on a 20A circuit if there are more then one receptacle but the wire must be at least #12.
 
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Old 10-27-06, 03:18 AM
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So what you are saying is that if I change the pigtail to #12, I can leave the original 240v breaker??
 
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Old 10-27-06, 04:26 AM
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You must either use a 15 or 20 amp breaker. While you could leave a 240 volt breaker in place and use it if it were 15 or 20 amps, I would not recommend it.

If you don not have the proper size breaker then you hava fire hazard. Turn the breaker off until you get the right size. Use a match to light the burners if you want to use them.
 
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Old 10-27-06, 06:35 AM
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OK guys, job done. I just replaced the 2-pole breaker with a new single 15A one. I even have an open slot now for a new braker to add a receptacle in the basement

Thank you all!!
 
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