Backwire Outlets

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  #1  
Old 11-28-06, 09:29 AM
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Backwire Outlets

Now, I realize this might be a bit controversial, but here goes...

I recently replaced a GFI outlet on my front porch, and I used the backwire feature on the outlet. From what I have heard this isn't necessarily the preferred method as compared to the binding screw, but I haven't heard anyone say it is unacceptable either. The run going to the fixtures past the GFI were physically a little short in the box, so I had to extend them a little with a wire nut and about 5 inches of line for both hot and neutral. By the point I had the wires out long enough, it didn't seem that a splice was going to be possible and able to fit back into the box safely. I bought what I believe to be a quality GFI from Lowes (about $13 for one), and I tested the backwire with a slight tug before securing the receptacle in the box. Everything was then wrapped with tape to make sure the screws didn't accidentally come into contact with anything.

Is there any problem with this?

-Chris
 
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  #2  
Old 11-28-06, 09:41 AM
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> I used the backwire feature on the outlet.

Backwire (which uses a screw and pressure plate) makes a very reliable connection; this is the type on brand-name GFCI receptacles, like Cooper from Lowes. Sidewire (wire wrapped around a screw) also makes a very reliable connection.

The "backstab" connection is what to avoid. Backstab is when the wires are simply stuck into a hole in the back of the receptacle and an internal spring device holds them in place instead of a screw.
 
  #3  
Old 11-28-06, 09:43 AM
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I have never seen a GFCI receptacle with back stabs.
 
  #4  
Old 11-29-06, 06:53 PM
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Great....I got the right one then!

Thanks!
-Chris
 
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