question about a installing a switch loop...


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Old 12-06-06, 05:59 PM
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question about a installing a switch loop...

I'm installing a couple of lights in the crawl space of my home. There is a single 12/2 w/ gr line coming from the panel to an existing light (which is controlled by a pull string). I want to add an additional light and add a switch by the entry door to control both. I know how to install an end-line switch for the one light, but how do I get it to control both lights?

For clarification:

Source----->light----->light----->switch

Thanks in advance.
 
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Old 12-06-06, 06:07 PM
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That was my initial plan, but, I'd like to avoid using an additional 75' of wire, if possible.
 
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Old 12-06-06, 06:11 PM
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You might do it this way instead.

Source----->switch----->Light----->Light

It still can be a switch loop in this order

Regards
 
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Old 12-06-06, 06:15 PM
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To go

Source----->light----->light----->switch

You will need 12-3 between lights.
 
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Old 12-06-06, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by racraft View Post
To go

Source----->light----->light----->switch

You will need 12-3 between lights.

That's what I thought. So I guess 75' of 12/2 w/ gr is cheaper than 50' of 12/3 w/ gr.
 
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Old 12-06-06, 06:40 PM
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Gen,

You are missing the part about using a white wire as part of the switch loop. You might want to add it, to make your post more complete.
 
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Old 12-06-06, 06:45 PM
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Not knowing how your distances are relative to your devices, the 12-3 method would go like this---

AC wht to L1 neu
Splice L1 neu to 12-3 wht and connect to L2 neu
AC Blk splice to 12-3 red then connect to S1-A
Connect S1-B to L2-hot and L1 hot (with 12-3 Blk)

If you draw this out, you will then see which boxes to put which splices.
 

Last edited by Gen; 12-06-06 at 06:46 PM. Reason: correct
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Old 12-06-06, 06:45 PM
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Gen,

My suggestion, using 12-3 between the lights and pathway

Source----->light=====>light----->switch

does indeed involve a switch loop.
 
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Old 12-06-06, 06:47 PM
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The above posts are out of order. Somehow my posts are ending up with a time stamp ten minutes (or so) earlier than when I actually post them. I am posting this at 9:58 p.m.
 
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Old 12-06-06, 06:52 PM
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Racraft you're right--it's now a switch loop with the switch at the end.
 
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Old 12-06-06, 06:53 PM
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Racraft I think somehow the long time I take to respond or edit may have thrown off the sequence. Sorry if this the case.
 
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Old 12-06-06, 06:55 PM
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Gen,

I don't know what the problem is, but I don;t think it's on your end. I am reading your posts and responding to them, yet mine get a time stamp earlier than when I even think about typing them. This one is being posted at 10:06 p.m., yet the time stamp will be before 10:00...

Something is rotten.
 
  #13  
Old 12-06-06, 07:02 PM
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Racraft see if this has such effect.....Look back at the start. I think while I was editing my first and before submitting, looper was responding to my unedited version. Hence his went first while mine was in limbo?
 
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Old 12-06-06, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Gen View Post
Not knowing how your distances are relative to your devices, the 12-3 method would go like this---

AC wht to L1 neu
Splice L1 neu to 12-3 wht and connect to L2 neu
AC Blk splice to 12-3 red then connect to S1-A
Connect S1-B to L2-hot and L1 hot (with 12-3 Blk)

If you draw this out, you will then see which boxes to put which splices.
Thanks, that's what I had drawn out (using a switch loop). I figured I'd need about 50' of 12/3 and 20' of 12/2 for the above scenario. I'll need a total of 140' of 12/2 for running the power through the switch.
 
 

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