110 V on a 220 V plug

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  #1  
Old 01-15-07, 04:50 PM
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110 V on a 220 V plug

Sometime over the weekend (probably when I reset the breaker) my range/oven stopped working. The lights and clock and almost everything else works, but it won't heat up. I had someone come by and he said that the voltage on the plug is 110V instead of 220V (showed me the voltmeter). He said his best guess was that breaker was probably not working correctly. Does this seem correct?
 
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  #2  
Old 01-15-07, 05:10 PM
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You are only getting half the voltage to the range. Assuming you didn't change anything (please tell us the truth if you did) then you either have a bad breaker or a broken or disconnected breaker.

This also assumes everything else in your house works properly.
 
  #3  
Old 01-15-07, 05:27 PM
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I changed an overhead lighting fixture on a different breaker, but that's it, and the new light is working properly. Unfortunately, the breakers weren't properly labeled and I switched a bunch of them on and off before getting to the circuit with the light fixuted I installed. I ordered pizza and had used my foreman to make burgers over the weekend, so I can't be 100% sure that is when the oven stopped working.

I don't have a main breaker, so I'm not 100% sure how to do it safely. I saw you lived in CNY. Do you have national grid? Would you happen to know how to shut off the power to the breaker?
 
  #4  
Old 01-15-07, 05:42 PM
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Shame on you for not knowing what is on each breaker. You should have figured that out shortly after moving in. The information is vital when you have a problem and could save your life.

As soon as possible, do the job you should have done long ago, identigy what breaker controls each and every receptacle, light ans appliance in your house.

As for your immediate problem, you need to measure the voltage on the 240 volt breaker that feeds your range. Measure it at the panel and at the range receptacle. If you do not feel comfortable doing this yourself, then hire an electrician.

My utility company is not important to your situation and means nothing. Look for a main breaker at your meter.
 
  #5  
Old 01-15-07, 06:15 PM
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Bob, just started a remodel today. In the basement there are two 100 amp panels, no covers, fuses, and an array of wires sticking out of the front of the box that looks like a caduceus. I got closer and held my breath as I reached for the mains to pull them. Scary that someone would have that in a residence. Finally got it trimmed down to a manageable situation by sundown, but, like you said, nothing was labeled, and it made it very difficult to diagnose problems upstairs.
Op 157, check to make sure all the other circuits in your house are working. If it isn't the breakers, it could be one leg of the wiring from the meter.
 
  #6  
Old 01-15-07, 06:35 PM
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racraft-
Wouldn't you throw the main breaker if some emergency came up in the home instead of reading what breaker does what?

I just wanted to ask that because I've seen alot of threads talking about labeling the breakers for emergency sitatuations along with ease of maintenance.

I know I would just throw the main if a emergency came up instead of trying to read some labels to figure out which one.
 
  #7  
Old 01-15-07, 07:00 PM
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An emergency is one thing. Turning off the right breaker for routine work is another.

People all the time turn off the wrong breaker, or don't realize they need to turn off two breakers, to completely shut off power to a particular junction box. All because they never bothered to figure out what breaker(s) they need to turn off.
 
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Old 01-15-07, 07:01 PM
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AHHHHH I get it now. Haha, I'm dumb. Thanks racraft.
 
  #9  
Old 01-16-07, 02:29 PM
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In addition to having an up-to-date schedule of what breaker controls what outlet I like to mark each and every outlet (receptacle and light switch) with the corresponding breaker and if it is a 3-wire circuit the other breaker sharing the neutral.

I use a P-Touch labeler with the 1/4 inch clear tape. It make a readable yet inobtrusive label.
 
  #10  
Old 01-16-07, 03:10 PM
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My experience

Last fall our range elements quit working, although the clock and light were still on. I threw the breaker, and after not finding anything obvious, I decided to tighten up the wall outlet while things were out and accessible.
I unplugged the range cord, and while moving it out of the way, noticed that it seemed loose at the range connection point.

Worse than that! The turds that had installed this unit ( it came with the house) had not bothered to capture the cords eyelets in the screw terminals, but had merely hung the eyelets over the back of the screws where they extended past the 'lock' nuts. The only thing forcing contact with the screw threads was the severe twist in the cord. The screws were arched almost in half, but there was enough left of them to properly capture the eyelets in the attahcment points and tighten up the nuts to hold them in place.

I shudder to think of the number of times my wife had used the "Self Cleaning oven" feature over the past 18 + years, with the cord merely hung off those screws. Idiots. They're rampant!
 

Last edited by MTTwister; 01-16-07 at 03:12 PM. Reason: dang typo's
  #11  
Old 01-20-07, 03:26 PM
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Finally time for an update. I have now mapped all my breakers now. I also went out and got a dmm. Voltage on the breaker was 110, so hopefully replacing the breaker fixes the problem. Here's my problem though, which I thought might be the case. The breaker that's not working is connected directly to the incoming line. I have 4 main breakers, all of which have to be turned off in order cut all the power. The breaker that's not working is one of those 4 breakers. The meter is locked, so I have to have the power company come over to turn the power to the house off.
 
  #12  
Old 01-20-07, 03:46 PM
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Please tell us where on the breaker, or in the panel you measured the 110 volts.

This is important.
 
  #13  
Old 01-21-07, 07:56 AM
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First I tested between the neutral and both sides of the breaker. The breaker I have looks like this one:

http://www.mysimon.com/9000-11020_8-0.html?mlpid=33530582

The side with the switch had a voltage of ~110 relative to neutral, and the voltage on the other side was 0.

Then I tested them against eachother and got ~110 again.
 
  #14  
Old 01-21-07, 08:27 AM
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You have what is known as a split bus panel. The breaker is either defective or the connection to the main bus is bad. Have you tried turning it off/on several times to reset it?
 
  #15  
Old 01-21-07, 12:30 PM
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I have reset it several times already. There are other 220V breakers (on the same side too), which do show 220V between both connections. Could that rule out the connection to the main bus?
 
  #16  
Old 01-21-07, 02:05 PM
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it is most likely a bad breaker. I would replace it.
 
  #17  
Old 01-22-07, 05:45 PM
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Is there a relatively safe way to do this without getting the electric company involved? (this breaker is one of 4 main breakers)
 
  #18  
Old 01-25-07, 02:04 PM
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Have an electrician with the proper PPE do it. He/She may have to pull the meter or have it pulled.
 
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