Dryer-120A or 240Amp?

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  #1  
Old 01-20-07, 09:50 PM
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Dryer-120A or 240Amp?

Moved into an old house and the previous occupants left the dryer. It takes a long time to dry the clothes. So, I looked at the cord and plug-in. The cord is a 16ga, three prong and the receptacle is 120v, three slot. I think that maybe someone put a smaller cord and used an existing 15 amp breaker(already in the breaker box) because they didn't have a 240 volt receptacle, so they were just using 120v to dry their clothes. That might explain the long dry time.
The plate on the back does not say that the dryer is a 240v dryer, but it does say this: "Connect to individual branch circuit with MINIMUM supply-circuit conductor ampacity of 30 amps and 30 amp MAXIMUM circuit breaker."
This leads me to believe that I can use a 240 volt setup(pigtail, receptacle, breaker, 10ga wire) to power this dryer. Any ideas on this one. Thanks in advance.
 
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  #2  
Old 01-20-07, 09:58 PM
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Buy a new dryer. Who knows what else they did to it.
 
  #3  
Old 01-21-07, 05:55 AM
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16 guage? You sre about that one? If it really is 16 then when that dryr is running the cord must get hella hot.

Ditch the dryer please.
 
  #4  
Old 01-21-07, 06:15 AM
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You have fire waiting to happen. At the very least call an electrician to sort out the wiring mess and possibly buy a new dryer. In the mean time, don;t use this death trap.
 
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Old 01-21-07, 07:43 AM
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Thanks for all the responses. Couldn't I just install a four prong pigtail chord and a four slot 30a receptacle and a 30a dp breaker?
As it exists, they are using a 3 prong pigtail chord. The wires are hooked to three terminals. I'm assuming that they have hooked the ground wire to the middle, nuetral terminal. The hot wire to one of the outside terminals. Then, the nuetral wire to the other outside terminal. Crazy, huh?!?
There is a screw on the outside, (back side of the dryer), that says, "Ground screw." So this leads me to believe that the three terminals on the inside of the back plate are two hots and one nuetral, and the outside screw is for the ground wire. So wouldn't this be a 240v dryer? (just hooked up improperly.) And couldn't I just hook it up like it originally was supposed to be hooked up?
I don't want to keep using this dryer if it might be damaged by the way it has been hooked up. So, if there is nothing wrong with it, I will just wire it correctly and use it. If you think that is a bad idea, could you explaing why. And if you still think I need a new dryer, I have no problem with buyin a new one. Just wanted to know why I couldn't just wire this one correctly and use it. Again, thanks in advance!!
 
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Old 01-21-07, 02:24 PM
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Smile

Any takers to my last response?
 
  #7  
Old 01-21-07, 02:50 PM
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Dryer

What size wire do you have in the branch circuit from the breaker to the room where the dryer is located?
 
  #8  
Old 01-21-07, 05:00 PM
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I just ran some new 10/3 w/g wire. I put in a dp 30a breaker, and I was planning on using a new 30a 10ga pigtail chord and 30a receptacle for the settup. What do ya think?
 
  #9  
Old 01-21-07, 07:16 PM
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What's the verdict on my idea to run 240v to this dryer?
 
  #10  
Old 01-21-07, 07:52 PM
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Who is the manufacturer? Have you checked the model number on their web site? Check the motor name plate. What is it's voltage rating? It is probably 120V even if it is a 240v dryer. You must be sure that it's connections haven't been altered if it is 120V. If it is 120V one side must go to the neutral, silver screw. If both sides are on brass screws it's connection may need to be altered.

I won't though say you should try it even if you are sure the motor is correct. Just saying if you are not going to follow the advice here be,sure that any 120v components including clock motors and lights that may be 120v will indeed get only 120V.

Oh, and have a fire extinguisher rated for electrical fires handy when you test it. Also you might want to have someone ready to throw the breaker. (They should not though stand in front of the breaker box. On the off chance it explodes it will probably blow straight out.)
 
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Old 01-21-07, 08:35 PM
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At the very least call an electrician to sort out the wiring mess, and possibly buy a new dryer.
 
  #12  
Old 01-22-07, 08:09 PM
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You have a dryer which it appears some moron jury rigged to run on 120 instead of 240. Now you want someone sight unseen to tell you all is well, not knowing WHAT they previous owner may have done.

At a minimum, you should have a qualified electrician check it over to see if it is safe, and to see if it can be restored to 240 volts. Fooling around with this could easily result in electric shock or fire.
 
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Old 01-22-07, 08:20 PM
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I forgot to mention, some of the components could be damaged. Spend the cake ($300), buy a new one, they are much more efficient now, and will save you in the long run.

Sparkey will charge you a $100+ to tell you the same thing in person.
 
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