Circuit map and connection help.

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  #1  
Old 02-02-07, 08:18 PM
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Circuit map and connection help.

I am adding a bathroom in my basement. Was hoping for some input on wiring it. I will ofcourse be adding a new 20amp 110 circuit..
1. Should the new circuit be a GFCI circuit? Or is that a necessary to have everything in the bathroom on that, and just GFCI the duplex receptacle?

The new bath will have

2 vanity lights on single pole switch
1 vent fan w/ Timer switch
1 shower light on single pole switch
1 GFCI receptacle
1 18-24" baseboard heater (on seperate existing 220 circuit)

I have been reading up on how to do this,but would like some input on the safest/most efficient connections. i.e bring the 14/2 from panel to first switch, then 14/3 to first light, 14/3 to 2md etc....

Is this possible to ask?

Thanks in advance!
 
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  #2  
Old 02-02-07, 08:21 PM
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First off you should use 12 ga. wire for your 20 amp circuit.

You would also need to tell how the switches will be arranged. Are they in one multi-gang box or several?
 
  #3  
Old 02-02-07, 08:23 PM
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Oh 12 ga..thats right..funny..some book dont even mention that it should be a 20amp, just a 15..is it not code everywhere I guess?

Yes the 3 switches will be in a gang..I have a diagram,I will try to attach it
 
  #4  
Old 02-02-07, 08:29 PM
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I cannot figure out how to attach that diagram?!
 
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Old 02-02-07, 08:39 PM
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I see that I cannot attach the image, I'm not allowed.
 
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Old 02-02-07, 08:43 PM
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madhatter, you can attach an url (members will have to copy and paste). A lot of members use photobucket.
 
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Old 02-02-07, 08:59 PM
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Oh ya! I have a Flickr account
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/377985245/
 
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Old 02-02-07, 09:08 PM
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Make sure that the shower light is rated to be installed over a shower. If so, the manufacturer will probably require GFCI protection for it.

The danger of placing all the bathroom lights on the GFCI protected side of the circuit is that a a trip will place the bathroom in the dark. That may not be a good thing. I would try to keep the vanity lights on the non-GFCI side of the circuit.

You will have to be careful how you run the wires, to avoid box fill issues. Buy the deepest boxes you can find.

I would run the 12-2 into the switch box. Then I would run 12-2-2 to/from the GFCI. Then 12-2 out to the vent fan, the vanity lgihts,m and the shower light.
 
  #9  
Old 02-02-07, 09:15 PM
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yes I plan on making sure the shower light can is approved for over the shower...

I got a little confused with 12-2-2 to/from the GFI..

Thanks
 
  #10  
Old 02-02-07, 09:17 PM
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Only the receptacle is required to be GFCI protected, but you can protect the rest if you want to. Depending on the type and location of the shower light, and the manufacturer's instructions, it may also require GFCI protection.

I would run the power first to the GFCI receptacle, from the GFCI receptacle to the switch box, and separate lines from the switch box to the three things being controlled. This puts fewer cables in the switch box than Bob's suggestion. The switch box will be pretty crowded already.

I'd go ahead and start with everything GFCI protected. I.e., the cable from the receptacle to the switch box would be connected to the LOAD side of the GFCI. If you get too many false trips, and if the shower light doesn't require protection, you can always move the connection to the LINE side later.

I wouldn't worry about getting left in the dark. If you can't find your way out of a bathroom in the dark, then you probably can't wire this either.
 
  #11  
Old 02-02-07, 09:17 PM
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Also, now I think I should move the switch for the shower light to the wall at the back of the shower. It seems more intuitive,and would help with box issues?
 
  #12  
Old 02-02-07, 09:28 PM
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what are the chances someone could make me a map, including connections that I could use for reference (then come over and wire it? LOL) Kidding about that,but seriously, I'd really appreciate the map, and I'll buy the coffee?
 
  #13  
Old 02-02-07, 09:32 PM
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I would keep the shower light switch well away from the shower.

Buy the biggest box in the store and pack it carefully and you won't have any trouble, if you route the cable as I suggested.
 
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Old 02-02-07, 09:47 PM
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Good idea re:switch..Now about that map?
 
  #15  
Old 02-02-07, 11:28 PM
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Could someone please look at this wiring diagram I did up?

I'm sorry, it may be too hard to trace all my wires,but maybe some errors may be pointed out? I am trying to keep the shower light and switch on the GFCI side of the circuit. I will post a version of the image with no wires if someone wants to see that fixes,etc....

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/378069375/

Thanks,and I hope everyone can use Flickr..I can try Photobucket too if preffered....
 
  #16  
Old 02-02-07, 11:37 PM
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here is the photobucket link
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s250/madhatter1138/bathroom3.jpg
 
  #17  
Old 02-02-07, 11:56 PM
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I Just noticed that I put in a 3 wire from the first switch to the first light,thats wrong.... right? Its just a 12/2 to first light,pigtailed to 12/2 to second light...

Going to bed,thanks all!
 
  #18  
Old 02-03-07, 08:39 AM
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Revised circuit map

Could someone please have a look at this map and let me know what they think?

http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s250/madhatter1138/bathroom5.jpg
 
  #19  
Old 02-03-07, 10:41 AM
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It looks fine. You didn't show the LINE and LOAD markings on the GFCI, but I'm sure you'll get it right. In your diagram, LINE should be the bottom connections and LOAD should be the top connections.

You have six 12/2 cables and 3 switches in that triple-gang box. You need at least a 42.75 cubic inch box. Go even larger if you can find one. It's going to get crowded anyway, so you'll need to think carefully to get your connections neat enough to pack back into the box. Somewhat counterintuitively, it'll be easier to do if you leave the wires longer than usual.
 
  #20  
Old 02-03-07, 11:56 AM
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Thanks John, and sorry for the redundant thread, didn't see this reply until now. Yes, I know the load and line for the GFCI, so that should work.
I will try for largest box for the 3 switches. Question, having looked at some existing triple ganged boxes in my house , I noticed that they are not overly large,and are full to the rafters (it seems)...should I be worried that the original electrician overpacked them? Having said that,it would seem that my box would be no fuller than theirs?!
 
  #21  
Old 02-03-07, 12:59 PM
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In the absense of information to the contrary, I generally assume that wiring that was professionally done and is working correctly is wired to code. Assuming otherwise will drive you crazy.
 
  #22  
Old 02-18-07, 07:04 PM
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Up and running!

Just a follow up and a big THANKS! to everyone, especially John, for all the input and help. Have now got the bathroom wired,as well as other changes to existing lights,etc. Evertything works great, wires fit into boxes good.Took my time and did it right...now onto the plumbing !!
 
  #23  
Old 02-18-07, 07:16 PM
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Congratulations!

BTW, plumbing usually comes before electrical.
 
  #24  
Old 02-18-07, 07:25 PM
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Ah Jeez...now I have to rip it out and start over? heh heh..Thanks again.
 
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