Wiring Installation

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  #1  
Old 02-14-07, 11:02 AM
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Wiring Installation

I am about to install 2 GFCI outlets on the outside of my home. My question is can i drop the wire down between the brick and framing of the house or do I need to drill a hole through the header beams and drop the wire down between studs where the insulation is?
 
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Old 02-14-07, 11:53 AM
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Is the house frame or brick? If the brick is fascia the you may find that any space behind it is clogged with mortar. If there is a space it would be perfectly OK to use it. It is often a bad idea bad idea to drill holes in headers unless you drill straight down.
 
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Old 02-14-07, 11:58 AM
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the house is a brick house and after getting in the attic i can see that there is about a 3 inch space between the brick and the framework. there is some mortar behind the brick but it is splotchy at best and seems to pose the least amount of headache. So I would be safe just running the wire down behind the brick without any conduit, etc?
 
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Old 02-14-07, 11:58 AM
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Wiring Install

Yep, there is a header on top of the 2x4 studs. Drill through it and run a steel snake through the wall to the opening for the box. Home Depot has them in all sizes and not much money.

Pushing your wire down through the wall is tuff, it will get cought on the insolation and usually goes where it wants to.

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Old 02-14-07, 12:02 PM
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Duke,

Stop including your email address in your posts. It violates web site rules, and is a good way to get you spam. If you have it as your signature, then please change it.

Thank you.
 
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Old 02-14-07, 12:12 PM
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"there is a header on top of the 2x4 studs. Drill through it and run a steel snake through the wall to the opening for the box."

So your saying to go down through teh wall with the studs and not between the brick and framing?
 
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Old 02-14-07, 12:53 PM
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yes you can do that in the wall cavity but just a head up some older home may have some kind of fire stop or horzontal 2x4 and may get in the way

most newer home is pretty easy straght foward job but to run fish tape it can get little tricky espcally if you have insluation materals in the wall cavity

one trick i do use once a while is use the chain and shake it down with either fish weight bob thing you know what i mean and go down to where you have a opening for repectale on outside wall

if you do that make sure you mesure where you will go in right wall cavity

i heard from time to time they cant find it end up in wrong wall cavity

the other option i genrally kinda hastie [sp] to do this

cut a small open on inside of drywall where the ceiling and wall meet and cut about 3 inch sq that will see where is the fish tape and hole line up from there you can fish it

i will leave the other option if other member in here have better idea just pass it along here


Merci , Marc
 
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Old 02-14-07, 01:23 PM
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THX for all the help guys.
 
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Old 02-16-07, 09:31 AM
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I have had a few people ask me why I wouldnt install 12/2 with a 20a receptacle but if im planning on tieing all this into a 14/2 circuit, can i do that?

French: What you stated in your previous post were youtalking about going into the wall or the space between the external brin and the framing.

BTW, Does anyone know what that space is called?
 
  #10  
Old 02-16-07, 09:49 AM
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If you are tapping a 15 amp circuit then use 14-2, although 12-2 would be legal. However, if tapping a 15 amp circuit then you must use 15 amp receptacles. If you are tapping a 20 amp circuit then you MUST use 12-2 but (assuming you are in the US) you can use either 15 or 20 amp receptacles.

Make sure that the circuit you plan to tap is legal to be tapped, and can support the load you plan for these receptacles.
 
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Old 02-16-07, 11:48 AM
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One method for pulling cable through an insulated wall cavity is to use a segment of liquid tight flexible conduit as a temporary chase. I have a piece I keep just for this purpose.
 
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Old 02-16-07, 12:12 PM
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Actually running in the wall space between the outer sheathing and the inside wall would be hardest because of insulation. If the airspace between the sheathing and the brick is as described that would be the easiest route.

I'd probably try a heavy weight to a string and try dropping it. then I'd pull ENT (Smurf). Finally I'd push the NM through the ENT .The ENT would be just to protect the outer jacket of the NM from abrasion of mortar clumps and brick ties. Yes, a bit complicated to write but easier to do.

Edit: Don't forget to use plenty of lube if pushing the NM throught the Smurf.
 
  #13  
Old 02-16-07, 01:09 PM
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Racraft - I believe that almost everything is wired with a 14/2 except for the obvious heavier power pulling receptacles(frig, washer/dryer, etc). I will double check the breaker and make sure that it is a 15a breaker. I am planning on starting and finishing the project this weekend.

Thanks for all of your inputs. It is people like yall that make a website like this such a great tool for DIYer's.
 
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