Bathroom wiring question

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  #1  
Old 02-27-07, 08:17 AM
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Bathroom wiring question

I'm considering rewiring a bathroom downstairs, so I wanted to get some opinions as to the best approach.

My current setup has the bathroom line shared with the kitchen, so I wanted to isolate the bathroom on it's own. So, I figured the best way to detail this was to discuss what I currently have and what I would like to ultimately have...and please feel free to share any insights as to any improvements or considerations for the future... ie, maybe I put in another light or switch, etc for whatever reason, in case I need it for the future. The line is also non-GFCI protected.

My current set up is the following:

I have 1 duplex box with both a receptacle and switch. It's one of those that shares 1 outlet. The switch controls an exhaust fan in the ceiling.

I also have a light above the sink - in order to use the light, I have to push in a push button switch at the top. Needless to say, it's not very convenient to have to do so.. I have also noticed that any company over the house has no idea how to put that light on... so they always switch on the exhaust fan.

So what I'd like to do is start over fresh by running new wiring from the panel.
I'm pretty sure that code calls for a 20 amp line. And it would also be my understanding that I can have the lights, exhaust fan, and receptacles on 1 line, so long as it fed only that bathroom. If this is wrong, then all of my assumptions below are also wrong.

Assuming that I'm correct with the above statements, it's not going to be a problem to run new wiring since I have access from the basement into the wall.

Ultimately, I'd like to have 2 switches and 2 sets of duplex receptacles. The one single outlet is not meeting our needs... we constantly have to keep switching plugs - so I need more available outlets. My initial thoughts are that it would be best to basically have 1 switch and 1 duplex in each box.

So, here's my approach for review...

I was going to run 12/2 gauge NM from the box into the double duplex. I was then going to attach the feeder with 2 sets of pigtails (essentially splitting into 2) - 1 feeding the GFCI and the other going to the switch. The switch would then have another cable running to the vanity light.

The line from the GFCI would then feed the 2nd boxes' outlet. I would then split it again with pigtails - 1 for the outlet and the other to the switch. I would then connect the 2nd switch for the exhaust fan light. In fact, that cable is already there, so I just need to connect it to the switch. I know this makes the exhaust fan GFCI'd.. and that may not be necessary... but I don't feel its an issue since the vanity light is not. In the event the GFCI tripped, I would still have the vanity light. We seldom use the exhaust fan anyway....

So, my questions are the following:
Is 12/2 the right cable... or is it better to use 12/3. If so, then how should my wiring diagram go?
Is it ok to pigtail from the feeder cable and basically split it into 2 lines.. 1 for the light, the other for the GFCI?

Does it make sense to have 1 outlet and 1 switch in 1 box? I want to have additional outlets down the wall along the counter top also be protected.

But I kind of want the two switches separated as well... maybe it's best to have 3 boxes... 1 with a double switch and then 2 separate duplexes (the first GFCI'd and the 2nd off of the line)... is it permissable to do that?

Thanks everyone...

Any help would be appreciated.
 
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  #2  
Old 02-27-07, 09:39 AM
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> I'm pretty sure that code calls for a 20 amp line. And it would also be
> my understanding that I can have the lights, exhaust fan, and receptacles
> on 1 line, so long as it fed only that bathroom.

Correct. One 20A circuit may feed all of the outlets in a single bathroom.

> Is 12/2 the right cable

12/2 with ground NM-B "Romex" is the correct cable. It has black, white, and bare wires inside the jacket.

> Is it ok to pigtail from the feeder cable and basically split it into 2 lines

You may splice however you choose so long as all splices are made inside accessible junction boxes.

> I want to have additional outlets down the wall along the counter top
> also be protected.

It is required that they be GFCI protected.

> But I kind of want the two switches separated as well...is it permissable
> to do that?

Usually, all of the switches are done in one double or triple gang box near the doorway with the light switch being closest to the door. However, you may move the fan or accent lighting switches elsewhere if you so choose. Most building codes require that the primary light switch be located just inside the door.
 
  #3  
Old 02-27-07, 09:58 AM
jn
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" I know this makes the exhaust fan GFCI'd.. and that may not be necessary... but I don't feel its an issue since the vanity light is not. In the event the GFCI tripped, I would still have the vanity light. We seldom use the exhaust fan anyway...."

If for some reason you wanted the fan to not be GFCI'd it would be a small matter to simply switch the wiring feeding that outlet box to the the line side (or the pigtailed power) in the first GFCI receptacle box. Just remember that you will have to buy another GFCI recptacle to install in the box with the fan wiring. (This could all be switched after the fact because all the connections will be accessable in the boxes).

I think your layout sounds good...
 
  #4  
Old 02-27-07, 10:05 AM
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Thanks Everyone... I never even thought about that....

So, let me understand correctly.... instead of having the 2nd outlet be connected to the 1st GFCI, I can just have 2 GFCI outlets and not worry about line/ load issues.

sounds like a better plan....
 
  #5  
Old 02-27-07, 10:45 AM
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Yes, you understand correctly.
 
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