Panel Door question

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  #1  
Old 03-05-07, 08:12 AM
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Panel Door question

Hi everyone; this site has been great for my Basement remodel; thanks for everyones input and past questions!

I did a search and found nothing on a issue I have: My main panel is butted up to the ceiling joist; I plan on adding a drop ceiling in this room but the panel door will not be able to open if I do this. So I'm thinking of just enclosing the Panel in a "closet" but I would have to remove the Door.(Did not want the closet to stick out so far) Is this ok? All the wires are still enclosed just the breakers would be exposed.

Thanks for any suggestions. Tom
 
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  #2  
Old 03-05-07, 08:16 AM
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No, it's not okay. You need to find a different solution. Who the heck put the panel up so high? It's probably a code violation because of its height.
 
  #3  
Old 03-05-07, 08:29 AM
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A Licensed Electrician did the panel update; this was about (5) years ago. I took a look at the panel and there is no room on the main wire to move the panel down. So I assume I have to have the main redone by a Electrician? Any other suggestions would be great appreicated. Thanks for the info!
 
  #4  
Old 03-05-07, 08:46 AM
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I guess I can just bump out the closet and work it out. Thanks John! Something major like that I like to ask. Your input was greatly appreicated. And I'll post my progress in a picture just to make sure it looks acceptable.
 
  #5  
Old 03-05-07, 08:51 AM
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Have you considered "boxing" in a recess in the ceiling at this location. Probably 2 foot by 2 foot would be more than enough. You could attach the ceiling tile directly to the joists in the boxed area and still have room for the door to open.
 
  #6  
Old 03-05-07, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by goldstar View Post
Have you considered "boxing" in a recess in the ceiling at this location. Probably 2 foot by 2 foot would be more than enough. You could attach the ceiling tile directly to the joists in the boxed area and still have room for the door to open.
Thats a thought as well; There is some plumbing running right above. but that might work. I'll let you guys know what I come up with. Heck the wife may like the storage????

Thanks Tom
 
  #7  
Old 03-05-07, 09:27 AM
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Careful. There's a lot of codes involved here about how accessible the panel is. I usually approximate the codes this way. Suppose you just bought a full-size refrigerator and you saved the cardboard box it came in. You need to set that cardboard box on the floor, and slide it up to where it touches the door of the panel and completely covers it. If anything prevents you from doing that, it's a code violation.
 
  #8  
Old 03-05-07, 10:04 AM
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It would be approximately 19" from the Face of the Door. I guess the only alternatives I have are to A) Box it in as goldstar suggested B) Have a Electrician Move the Box down and I can case it in the wall or C) Build the Storage closet, may be a code violation.
 
  #9  
Old 03-05-07, 10:28 AM
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A panel cannot be in a storage closet with combustible materials.
 
  #10  
Old 03-05-07, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by John Nelson View Post
A panel cannot be in a storage closet with combustible materials.
I was thinking if I store anything it would be my car wash towels as my wife has been trying to get me to move them for years!

I like the closet idea but I donít want to do anything that would harm the function or cause a problem in the future. I haven't ran into anything that bothered me like this lately; I just want to make sure I do the right thing
 
  #11  
Old 03-05-07, 07:53 PM
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Lightbulb Imagination

Rework the ceiling grid (drop, right) so that there is a removable panel and "T" at this location. You should be allset.
 
  #12  
Old 03-05-07, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by lectriclee View Post
Rework the ceiling grid (drop, right) so that there is a removable panel and "T" at this location. You should be allset.
So, just put a removeable tile in front of the box and stud each side of the panel. I took a couple of pictures of the application




If you need others let me know
 
  #13  
Old 03-05-07, 08:27 PM
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sorry.

Not sure if it's you or me.

I coudn't see your photos.

I'm thinking, box your ceiling grid out enough. so it fits in with the decor, yet can be quickly removed, if need be.

Drop ceilings are very forgiving, just rearange your "mains" and the "tees".

Realy quite simple.
 
  #14  
Old 03-06-07, 06:44 AM
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Build a 3' by 3' closet around this panel and you'll be fine. Lowering the panel is going to be very difficult.

What's the distance from the floor to the bottom of the joists?
 
  #15  
Old 03-06-07, 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by John Nelson View Post
Build a 3' by 3' closet around this panel and you'll be fine. Lowering the panel is going to be very difficult.

What's the distance from the floor to the bottom of the joists?
It about 7' total; I can't thank you enough for all your suggestions and help on this one!
 
  #16  
Old 03-06-07, 08:52 AM
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If the joists are only 7' above the floor, then the panel height is probably okay according to code. But the drop ceiling is going to make the ceiling just barely clear your head, especially if you also add flooring. Just me, but I'd drywall the ceiling. I think the fear of needing access is overblown. Most people only need access once every five years or less. I drywalled my basement ceiling. Several years later, I did need access to a pipe. So I just cut an 8" by 8" square hole in the drywall, did maintenance to the pipe, and snapped in an access panel in the opening. What made this easy is that I took pictures of the ceiling (and walls) before I drywalled, so that I knew exactly where everything was.
 
  #17  
Old 03-06-07, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by John Nelson View Post
If the joists are only 7' above the floor, then the panel height is probably okay according to code. But the drop ceiling is going to make the ceiling just barely clear your head, especially if you also add flooring. Just me, but I'd drywall the ceiling. I think the fear of needing access is overblown. Most people only need access once every five years or less. I drywalled my basement ceiling. Several years later, I did need access to a pipe. So I just cut an 8" by 8" square hole in the drywall, did maintenance to the pipe, and snapped in an access panel in the opening. What made this easy is that I took pictures of the ceiling (and walls) before I drywalled, so that I knew exactly where everything was.

Good point; I just might rethink the dry wall option. Thanks again John!
 
  #18  
Old 03-06-07, 10:16 AM
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By the way, check with your city about minimum ceiling heights in a basement finish. My city requires a minimum of 7.5 feet, and the next city over only requires 7 feet.
 
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