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Can plug-type range be hardwired (replacing 2-piece double oven that was hardwired?

Can plug-type range be hardwired (replacing 2-piece double oven that was hardwired?

Old 03-16-07, 02:46 PM
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Exclamation Can plug-type range be hardwired (replacing 2-piece double oven that was hardwired?

We replaced an old one-piece, double oven electric stove combination with a new, smooth top range and an above the cooktop oven with multiple cooking modes. Our old stove was hardwired directly from the wall. My husband and the delivery personnel (in an effort to get us operational today as we have been without a stove since 2/23/07) cut the power cord for the new range to make it accessible to the hardwired electrical outlet. I am concerned that this was not a safe thing to do. We know we needed to call the electrician to install a 120 outlet for the above the cooktop oven. Is what they have done safe? I would prefer to install a 220 outlet for the range but my husband thinks it will be ok. What is best?
Old 03-16-07, 03:01 PM
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Are you asking if hardwirring a stove is all right?

Old 03-16-07, 03:23 PM
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First, you need to have the electrician verify that the existing circuit is large enough to adequately supply the new range. Some built-in cooktops and ovens only use a 30A circuit; most modern ranges require a minimum 40A circuit, and some large units require a 50A circuit. Consult your user's manual for the correct size. If the existing circuit is too small, it presents a fire hazard and needs to be upgraded.

Hardwiring the range is okay in some situations, but not by cutting the cord as you described. If the existing circuit was run with aluminum wire, which many in the U.S. were, then you have a very unsafe situation in my opinion. Splicing copper wire (range cord) with aluminum wire is very tricky and only professionally installed compression connectors can make the splice safely. A poorly installed Cu/Al splice will overheat and melt; it's just a matter of time. If the existing wire is copper, then the splice problem is much less of a concern assuming they used the correct size wirenuts.

The best solution is to install (or have the electrician install) a 240/120 range receptacle and an appropriate cord and plug for the range. This will be either a three-prong or four-prong receptacle depending on the existing wiring. If the electrician is already onsite for other work, adding the range receptacle should be a trivial job with less than $30 in parts and 15 minutes in labor (assuming no complications with the existing range circuit).
Old 03-16-07, 03:57 PM
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Smile added thought...warranty

Hi, this is just an additional train of thought. Have you voided your warranty by hardwiring your new stove?

I recently replaced my old built-in with a new, EXPENSIVE professional model. It was shipped via a fright line from the factory to my house. Upon arrival, I could have easily unpacked it and hooked it up. Had I done so, my warranty would have been invalidated. I learned that BOTH the Store & Manufacturer voided all warranties, if they (or their authorized service people) did not do the installation. Well my stove (certainly the most expensive one I will ever buy.) came with a FULL 5-year warranty, which I couldn't afford to loose! So, I paid $99.00 and waited 3-weeks to get my stove installed.

You might want to make sure the installers were authorized to make that kind of adjustment to your installation. Often stores sub-contract out these services (mine was) to marginally qualified individuals. (Focused on getting the job done FAST, & with no complaints. The installer may have been accommodating, but unaware of warranty restrictions.) My luck, my warranty would be in jeopardy, and the installers would blame me for making them do the alteration. (I certainly hope that's NOT the case.) However, if it were me, I'd check out the warranty parameters.

Enjoy your NEW stove, I'm still reading and learning about mine. It has a zillion options -- I'm looking for the one that clears the table & loads the dishwasher! Anna

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