Installing in-floor heating thermostat

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  #1  
Old 04-03-07, 10:36 PM
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Installing in-floor heating thermostat

Hey there,

I had an electrician come over today and hookup, or attempt to hookup, a couple of in-floor heating systems I have installed.

The first one in the downstairs washroom hooked up no problems, 120V system.

However the upstairs one, a 240V system is where we are having problems. The electrician ran 2 hots, and a ground for this 240V thermostat after hooking up a pony panel at the fusebox because we were out of room. I read 120V from hot1 to ground and 120V from hot2 to ground, but when I hook up the thermostat, it does nothing - no power.

The electrician figured it was the thermostat that was the problem so I went downstairs after he left, grabbed the working one (120 & 240 capable) and hooked it up, still a no-go.

If anyone can help me out with some suggestions, that would be great.

Thanks,
dabobcan
 
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  #2  
Old 04-03-07, 11:12 PM
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Are the hots coming into the themostat on separate legs?
 
  #3  
Old 04-04-07, 12:06 AM
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Thanks for the reply,

I am not sure what you mean exactly by separate legs but I think I have a couple ideas.

If you mean separate legs as in does the cable have two poles at the circuit breaker then yes, it does.

And if you mean do the two hots connect to the thermostat at different places then yes, they do.

http://www.aubetech.com/manuel/2/(2006_disc.)%20TH115-A-F-AF.pdf

Those are the installation directions for the thermostat and the model I have of it is the 240D.

Thanks again,
dabobcan
 
  #4  
Old 04-04-07, 05:55 AM
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When you measure between the two hot wires do you get 240 volts? If you get 0 volts then you do not have opposite legs of the service and need to fix it.
 
  #5  
Old 04-04-07, 08:14 AM
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Thanks again,

No there is not 240 V across the two hots, I get a reading of 0V. I have attached a link to some pictures of the setup if you could please let me know what needs to be switched so get this working.

Thanks!

http://www.imagehosting.com/show.php/426180_electrical3.jpg.html

http://www.imagehosting.com/show.php/426179_electrical2.jpg.html

http://www.imagehosting.com/show.php/426178_electrical1.jpg.html
 
  #6  
Old 04-04-07, 08:15 AM
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The two cables coming in on the left are the bathroom heating that was installed and the upstairs heating. The bathroom one works fine.
 
  #7  
Old 04-04-07, 08:16 AM
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Your problem is in the main breaker panel. Tell us more about what you have there.

And where does that red wire that disappears out of the picture to the left go to?
 
  #8  
Old 04-04-07, 08:31 AM
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I think you need a different electrician. If the electrician immediately suspects the thermostat then something is wrong. I don;t think he or she understands the setup you have, and that scares me.
 
  #9  
Old 04-04-07, 08:33 AM
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Hey John thanks for the reply,

First, the red wire that disappears simply isnt hooked up, I ran 14-3 but I only needed one hot and a neutral for the 120V in floor heating so its not used.

Second, the main breaker is a mess - an old fusebox type, Im pretty sure that it will be the next thing upgraded hahaha.

Ive attached more pictures of the main panel and in particular where the new box taps in.

Thanks again everyone.

http://www.imagehosting.com/show.php/426279_electrical004.JPG.html
http://www.imagehosting.com/show.php/426278_electrical003.JPG.html
http://www.imagehosting.com/show.php/426277_electrical002.JPG.html
http://www.imagehosting.com/show.php/426276_electrical001.JPG.html

(Sorry - I would make them clickable if I knew how)
 
  #10  
Old 04-04-07, 08:51 AM
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If I am interpreting the pictures correctly, the red and black wires that feed the disconnect where your wires connect are fed from the same leg of the service. This would be wrong and would be the reason you do not have 240 volts.

Can you confirm that they really do connect to the same place?
 
  #11  
Old 04-04-07, 08:56 AM
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Yes, that is how it is racraft.

Is there any easy solution to fix this? I am not an electrician by any means but I believe I would be able to do it if I'm careful.

Thanks.
 
  #12  
Old 04-04-07, 09:25 AM
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I'm with Bob on this one. It looks to me like you got the most incompetent electrician on the planet. Get another one.
 
  #13  
Old 04-04-07, 09:26 AM
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I would have to see the setup in person. I cannot tell enough from the pictures and I am uncomfortable trying to make suggestions based on what I can see. Perhaps John or someone else can see something in the pictures that I can't.

The electrician that did the work should be held responsible for making this right. Have you paid him or her yet? I hope not, since things don't work.
 
  #14  
Old 04-04-07, 09:45 AM
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Hey guys, thanks for the replies.

After closer inspection and a call to the electrician I see that he has indeed hooked up the two hot wires to separate legs of service. I checked the voltage across the two hot wires at the new sub panel and it is 240V, so I have to figure out why there isnt 240V across the two hots up at the thermostat box.

Im going to do a continuity test right now but if you guys have any updated ideas please let me know.

Thanks!
 
  #15  
Old 04-04-07, 09:47 AM
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Okay, I take back my assessment of the electrician.
 
  #16  
Old 04-04-07, 09:51 AM
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Just a question, but do you have the two cables hooked up correctly? You said they are both 12-3. Is it possible you confused which one is being used for 120 volts (and has an open red wire) and which is being used for 240 volts (and has both red and black wires connected)?

As a check, see if you get 120 volts between the red wire and the white wire at the 120 volt heater (or thermostat), or 240 volts between the red wire and the black wire at the 120 volt heater (or thermostat).
 
  #17  
Old 04-04-07, 09:59 AM
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Hey racraft, thanks for the suggestion.

I checked it out and there is 120V between the neutral and black hot at the 120V thermostat and nothing coming off the red hot there.

I did a continuity test and everything checked out, infinite was the reading i got.

I checked the voltage across the two terminals on the new subpanel and got a reading of 0V, however when I check them individually to ground I get 120V, so am I correct in assuming there is something wrong with the breaker unit?

Anything I can check easily?

Thanks.
 
  #18  
Old 04-04-07, 10:05 AM
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Not necessarily.

If you get 120 volts between each wire and ground or neutral but zero volts between them then you should assume that they are connected to the same leg of the incoming 240 volts.

However, you state they are connected to opposite legs because you get 240 volts where they are fed from (and I assume where they enter the unit).

A possible cause is that the 240 volt breaker is not properly hooked up.
 
  #19  
Old 04-04-07, 10:41 AM
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Move the black-handled breaker one space to the left and then move the doubled blue-handled breaker one space to the left.

I think that particular panel will only allow a 240 volt breaker to be installed in the middle position.
 
  #20  
Old 04-04-07, 10:55 AM
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Aha that did it guys, thanks!

Everything now seems to be powering on at the thermostat and the floor is heating up.

The only thing left to figure out is why when I push the TEST button nothing happens (supposed to be a GFCI test?)

Thanks again everyone
 
  #21  
Old 04-04-07, 01:24 PM
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Great call furd! Good to have your help here.

So even though he's not the most incompetent electrician on the planet, it seems he's not the most competent either.

What "TEST" button?
 
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