Undercounter Lighting


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Old 04-07-07, 12:09 PM
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Undercounter Lighting

I have a question about some under-cabinet lighting I'm planning to install above my sink. There was previously a flourescent light there that was direct wired with 12/2. It seems like all the new lights you can find (at the big boxes) are made to plug into an outlet, but some also have the ability to be direct wired. I would like to direct wire, so I don't have to take up room in the cabinet above for an outlet. I bought a rectagular light with a series of LEDs (low energy, and very low profile) that came with a cable to direct wire or a modular plug that can be wired in to plug it into an outlet. The other end of the cable has a molex plug on the end that will plug into the body of the light. The cable says "SPT-2 18AWGX2C VW-1 105C 300V" on it. I'm trying to figure out if I can run this wire through the wall to the switch box (it is about 3 ft away from where the light will be mounted). As an alternative, can I open the body of the light and use some 14/2 to wire direct? I'm looking for the safest option.

Thanks,
Guy
 

Last edited by 4thisguy; 04-07-07 at 12:10 PM. Reason: Opps...I meant under-cabinet!
  #2  
Old 04-07-07, 12:41 PM
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Are the lights truly low voltage? (under 120V) Do they have a built in transformer or remote trans?

Not 100% sure, I think with the 105C (celcius) rating and the 300V (ok for 120V)rating you would be ok. I would feel better seeing an "FPL" on it.

Do not alter the fixture. Lets wait for others.
 
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Old 04-07-07, 01:50 PM
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The lights are not "low voltage"...or at least the supply is not. The supply is 120 VAC running to the fixture. They are low current though (the directions say up to 10 of them can be daisy chained together with the same 18 AWG wire).

Guy
 
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Old 04-07-07, 02:16 PM
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In the U.S., the smallest gauge wire that can be run in concealed spaces at line voltage is 14 gauge.
 
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Old 04-07-07, 07:40 PM
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We put a very low profile box in the upper cabinet...ran 12/2 in the back (from the switch) and drilled a small hole through the bottom of the cabinet where we ran the 18 AWG wire that came with the light. The light's wire never runs in a concealed place...so I think I'm good.

Thanks!
Guy

PS...anybody have a good idea what to do with used AL 6/2 that I'm pulling?
 
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Old 04-08-07, 05:53 AM
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I belive it would be incorrect to run an 18 AWG, Ungrounded zip cord wire rated only at 300V through a wall and into a junction box.

your alternative is to use a 14-2 wire from the junction box through the wall, routed to the undercabinet. then use a shallow 1/2" ceiling box in a location that would be hard to see (at end of undercabinent by a wall) this box should be slim enough to be blocked by the faceframe of the cabinet. and make sure to ground the slim box and put a cover on.
Technically your still running into a box but it is much safer this way then running through the wall with the zip cord. Also i think its meets code for lighting as it is no different than wiring a chandelere to a ceiling box.
 
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Old 04-08-07, 05:57 AM
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ooops missed that last post... sound like what i decribed anyway LOL
 
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Old 04-08-07, 06:03 AM
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Originally Posted by 4thisguy
PS...anybody have a good idea what to do with used AL 6/2 that I'm pulling?

Scrap metal prices are up.. you will get more if you stip it, but it is time consuming.
 
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Old 04-08-07, 06:22 AM
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We have one scrap company here tha advertises on late night TV they strip your wire free so look around maybe there is such a company where you are.
 
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Old 04-02-08, 01:35 PM
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Benfranklin,
This shallow box set-up you speak of, how is the 14-2 wire run into it from the wall, just from a hole, right into the box's punchout with clamp? Just thought that exposed 14-2 wires is a big no-no?...then again my basement is full of exposed wires staped on the joists
 
 

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