Garage door opener, extending 110?

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  #1  
Old 04-10-07, 04:42 PM
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Smile Garage door opener, extending 110?

This house I am flipping has two openers, but NO remotes, former owner didn't pay for the home and stole the openers. I went to Sears and purchased update kits, which are 1/4 the size of the original wall boxes. The problem is that they require 110 where as the old didn't. The new antenna boxes plug into 110, and then the 24 v leads go back to the overhead motors.

Now I need to run 110 over to the door. There is an outlet on the wall but 15 feet away, and it is approx. 36" up the wall. I would like to extend this to the door, but wonder how I can get thru at least 12 studs before I run up the wall to the spot I want to power the two new mini boxes. Ideas?

Can I staple 14-2 wiring on the wall, or does code normally require that I bury such? I guess I could run conduit down, over and up the wall and install a surface mounted outlet box.

Suggestions are most welcome.

Thanks,

Dale
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  #2  
Old 04-10-07, 04:55 PM
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why not just plug them into the same rec that the door opener plugs into in the ceiling?
 
  #3  
Old 04-10-07, 05:13 PM
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Are these gas-powered garage door openers?
 
  #4  
Old 04-10-07, 05:41 PM
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To address the questoin about running romex on the surface of a wall.

The code does not say that this is illegal. It does say that you cannot run romex where "subject to physical harm." This leave "subject to physical harm" up to the inspectors interperation.

I have been doing electrical work for 25 years, and have yet to know an inspector to say that run on the out side of a wall is not subject to physical harm. I have to admit that I have not tried. My experience is only going back when others failed.

There is also the cheese factor. I give this type install a cheese factor of 12.
 
  #5  
Old 04-10-07, 07:37 PM
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jwhite, the new antenna box also has the switch that you use to open the door when in the garage and not using the remote. Would be hard to reach up to the ceiling to open the door. hehehe. Cheeze factor?, sorry I don't know what you are saying.

John, no they are 110 volt, with 24 volt antenna boxes. Sounds like the safe way is to run conduit. No one addressed how to snake a line within the wall?

Thanks though,

Dale
Indy
 
  #6  
Old 04-11-07, 01:18 PM
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I think I understand better, but I am still wondering why the 110v needs to go up the wall to the opener.

Can you post the modle number of the product. Maybe they have some info on line so we can see what you are up against.
 
  #7  
Old 04-11-07, 01:30 PM
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I understand better now.

Fishing horizontal in a wall is next to impossible. If you can get to the attic, you may be able to fish down to the existing rec then down to the new location.

I would suggest to just get wiremould. Put a box extension on the existing box, run wiremould to the new location and add a recepticle there.
 
  #8  
Old 04-11-07, 02:05 PM
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You may find that a new Garage Door Opener is easier and cheaper. There are a lot of choices under $150. Or you can usually buy extra remotes that can be programmed to your opener (unless the opener is 20 years old, in which case it's time to replace it anyway).
 
  #9  
Old 04-11-07, 02:34 PM
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The ceiling motors have always been plugged into 110 right next to the units. 24 volt wires then go over to the walk-thru door where the old low voltage antenna boxes were mounted, but DIDN'T require 110, The new updated antenna boxes have a built in male 110 plug, and a built in switch for opening and closing from within the garage, but they now need 110, so this is why I need to run power to such.

The updated kits cost $66.00 each, it includes the remote and now with every open and shut funtion the code changes for more security. The ceiling motor units are in good shape, so I figured $66.00 was better than $150.00.

I am going to run the wiremould like jwhite has suggested.

I learned some things, and sorry I didn't spell it out better in the first place.

Thank You,


Dale
Indy
 
  #10  
Old 04-11-07, 04:05 PM
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Did you ever look at eBay, hundreds of used remotes there.
 
  #11  
Old 04-11-07, 07:21 PM
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No, I didn't check Ebay, but good thought. It's to late as I just finished the install, and am happy with the results, but for the fun of it I will take a look. I have purchased approx. 100 items on Ebay with good results, but still not programed to use it as much as I could.

Dale
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  #12  
Old 04-11-07, 07:40 PM
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I think you may have been penny wise and pound foolish. Newer openers may be more expensive, but they have all the latest safety gadgets and I bet, in the long run (as John eluded to), you would end up spending less because the new openers will last longer than the old ones will.
 
  #13  
Old 04-11-07, 09:25 PM
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I enjoy this site, have learned a lot, and for this I am THANKFUL.

I request that you consider that my opening STATEMENT included the fact that I am FLIPPING this house. When flipping a home one needs to consider a lot of factors, and although some may think that everything I do is CUT CORNERS I can assure you I don't. The openers do have the light beam that prevents continued downward movement should it hit something, and seem to work fine, so I went the route I did.

I Thank you for your comments.

Dale
Indy
 
  #14  
Old 04-12-07, 05:01 AM
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I appreciate that you are selling the house, but I still question the cost. By the time you add the cost of the wiremold, the GFCI receptacles (you did use GFCI receptacles, right?), the wire itself, and all your time, you may very have spent more than new openers would cost.

But, it's your house and your decision to make. As long as whatever electrical you install is done safely and to code, you can spend as much as you want or as little as you want.
 
  #15  
Old 04-12-07, 07:01 AM
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Yep,I did it per code, and that's WHY I requested the help of this very good site. Time will tell as to whether I needed to spend the extra $140.00.

Until I need your help again, best wishes.

Dale
Indy
 
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