Running Power to Unattached Shed

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  #1  
Old 04-29-07, 09:27 PM
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Location: Jay, Maine
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Thumbs down Running Power to Unattached Shed

I am considering running power to my shed, located 50 feet from my house. The circuit will be feeding two 60/75 watt light fixtures, two interior duplex receptacles and one exterior duplex receptacle. There will be no continuous load at any of the outlets and at the most they will be used for circular saw, drill, string trimmer, etc. (all less than 15A and not running simultaneously).

I was planning to run 10/2 UF from a junction box inside, through the concrete block wall, an LB fitting and then a sweep to a trench 24 inches in depth, leaving an expansion loop. From a 20A breaker in the panel to the J-box, I had planned to run 10/2 (approx. 35 feet from panel to J-Box).

However, I have been looking at the cost of 10 gauge NM-B and UF and that may affect whether I do the wiring or not - Gulp!!!

With the distance - 85 feet +/- 10 feet - from the panel to the shed, would using 12 ga. instead of 10 ga. be feasible without too much of a voltage drop?

JimC
 
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  #2  
Old 04-29-07, 10:30 PM
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Assuming a 15A load, the voltage drop with #10 cable is 2.6% and the voltage drop with #12 cable is 4.1%. Mitigating voltage drop is not a code requirement, but the code recommends that voltage drop be limited to 3%.

Personally, I think the #12 is fine for the application you have described. Assuming you have 120V at the panel, you will have 115V at the shed. This is well within tolerance for small hand tools and lights.
 
  #3  
Old 04-30-07, 05:19 AM
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Location: Central New York State
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I would strongly consider using 12-3 (or 10-3) instead of 12-2 (or 10-2), as you can double the power at the shed, and give you the ability to run more than one tool at a time.
 
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