TROUBLESHOOTING GFCI 240V,60AMP spa disconnect
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TROUBLESHOOTING GFCI 240V,60AMP spa disconnect
Trying run a new spa system panel from a 240V,60AMP GFCI disconnect. I have wired the spa component with AWG#6 wire, However, the existing wire from the panel box to the disconnect is #8. and the GFCI trips immediately with no loads present. The Spa system is disconnected. Is this a wire guage issue?.
#3
> Is this a wire gauge issue?
It may be a separate issue as #8 is too small to use with a 60A breaker, but the wire gauge would not cause the GFCI to trip. The #8 would be just fine if you have a smaller breaker feeding it in the main panel.
You probably have an improper connection between ground and neutral somewhere in the spa circuit. Describe all of the wires you have and how they are connected.
It may be a separate issue as #8 is too small to use with a 60A breaker, but the wire gauge would not cause the GFCI to trip. The #8 would be just fine if you have a smaller breaker feeding it in the main panel.
You probably have an improper connection between ground and neutral somewhere in the spa circuit. Describe all of the wires you have and how they are connected.
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Troubleshooting gfci disconnect: neutral wire
yes, its is a 3 wire plus ground#8.. I wired the neutral to the neutral bus in the disconnect panel. In the main panel box it is on the ground bus as there is no neutral bus on that panel. Meter is showing power to both hots as well... still tripping with no load. thought maybe the gfci might be the problem so exchanged it...same thing.
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gfci troubleshooting
thanks Ben, I agree we need to run a #6 before saying the job is complete, but am perplexed on the tripping issue. The #8 wire is currently feeding off the main panel box out of 2 separate single pole 30AMP breakers (single hot on each). Also tried to troubleshoot by disconnecting the 60AMP (30/30) at the dryer and running it through there for proper breaker feed. Presently, the neutral wire is on the ground bus in the main panel box as is the ground, and on the neutral and ground bus's respectively at the disconnect unit.
#7
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A 2-pole 30A breaker does not add amperage to get 60A, it's 240V between the hots. You have a 30A 240V dryer circuit.
Does the spa's neutral land on the GFCI breaker in the disconnect? Make sure it lands on the right terminal. A Square D, for example, sometimes has a hot screw directly below where the GFCI's neutral leaves to go to the disconnect's neutral buss. And the Spa's neutral lands in the middle of the breaker, NOT under the breaker's neutral. Without looking closely at the label, it's easy to overlook this and miswire it.
You need to get a proper common-trip 2-pole 60A breaker for the main to feed this disconnect, but that will also require upgrading to #6 wires. If the spa will run on 50A, which is common even with spa's that mandate #6 wires for the warranty, you can leave the #8 wire to the disconnect and land them on a 2-pole 50A breaker in the main panel. You are responsibile for fullfilling the requirements for your warranty, though.
The two 30A breakers you are currently using will not provide sufficient amperage. Are they at least on separate hot busses to provide a full 240V? If not, they will both be at 120V to ground, but have zero volts between them. And again, you need a common-trip 2-pole breaker anyway.
Does the spa's neutral land on the GFCI breaker in the disconnect? Make sure it lands on the right terminal. A Square D, for example, sometimes has a hot screw directly below where the GFCI's neutral leaves to go to the disconnect's neutral buss. And the Spa's neutral lands in the middle of the breaker, NOT under the breaker's neutral. Without looking closely at the label, it's easy to overlook this and miswire it.
You need to get a proper common-trip 2-pole 60A breaker for the main to feed this disconnect, but that will also require upgrading to #6 wires. If the spa will run on 50A, which is common even with spa's that mandate #6 wires for the warranty, you can leave the #8 wire to the disconnect and land them on a 2-pole 50A breaker in the main panel. You are responsibile for fullfilling the requirements for your warranty, though.
The two 30A breakers you are currently using will not provide sufficient amperage. Are they at least on separate hot busses to provide a full 240V? If not, they will both be at 120V to ground, but have zero volts between them. And again, you need a common-trip 2-pole breaker anyway.
#8
A GFCI cannot trip with "no loads present". A GFCI senses a current mismatch. If there is no current, there can be no mismatch.
So something has to be causing the current. If there are really no loads, then there is a short. Inspect all wiring.
If the assertion of "no loads present" turns out to be incorrect, then an accidental or intentional interconnection of the neutral and ground is the most likely answer. Or, the equipment could have an actual ground fault. Or, it's just wired wrong. We don't have enough information to tell.
So something has to be causing the current. If there are really no loads, then there is a short. Inspect all wiring.
If the assertion of "no loads present" turns out to be incorrect, then an accidental or intentional interconnection of the neutral and ground is the most likely answer. Or, the equipment could have an actual ground fault. Or, it's just wired wrong. We don't have enough information to tell.
#9
Did anyone notice the OP wrote: "I wired the neutral to the neutral bus in the disconnect panel. In the main panel box it is on the ground bus as there is no neutral bus on that panel". It seems the OP is confused about what a neutral is or the main panel is miss wired. I also wonder if the "disconnect panel" is set up correctly. Maybe somewhere in this is the reason the GFCI is tripping.
Original poster if the main panel is truly a main panel it should only have a neutral that is bonded to the case. That bar(s) serve as both ground and neutral.The neutral in the subpanel should be isolated from the case and have a separate ground bar bonded to the case.
Original poster if the main panel is truly a main panel it should only have a neutral that is bonded to the case. That bar(s) serve as both ground and neutral.The neutral in the subpanel should be isolated from the case and have a separate ground bar bonded to the case.