Problem with Cooper 6107 motion sensing 3-way switches

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  #1  
Old 05-20-07, 09:18 AM
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Problem with Cooper 6107 motion sensing 3-way switches

I recently installed a pair of Cooper 6107 3-way motion switches in a hallway to control a single light. I have wired as instructed in the guide but when both switches are set to automatic, the light comes on and stays on for the set amount of time and then blinks off and turns back on again and again and...

There are four wires on the switch (black, red, brown, and green)

switch 1:
black to common and traveler 2
red & brown to traveler one
green to ground

switch 2:
black to common and traveler one
red & brown to traveler 2
green to ground

In addition, the wiring was not up to code, so I went to the expense of having a qualified electrician in to replace the wiring and install the switch. He was surpwised at the diagram for wiring the switches and was unable to get them to operate correctly.

Any help would be appreciated.
 
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  #2  
Old 05-20-07, 09:30 AM
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you don't have enough wires, travelers aren't suppose to go on the common screws, each wire should have it's own terminal.
 
  #3  
Old 05-20-07, 10:43 AM
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Tell us about the cables in the switch boxes.Where do they go? where is the power connection? where is the light connection?
Post a link to the wiring diagrams for the new switches.
 
  #4  
Old 05-20-07, 12:36 PM
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Red face enough wires, no posts

The switch boxes were originally supplied with a 2 conductor+ground cable with the bare ground used as the common! YIKES!

I had an electrician come in and wire it correctly. He used one of the old two conductors to carry the hot side(?) on the white wire (not wired to switches) and used the black wire as the common to switch 1 and common from switch 2 to the light. He then added a 3 conductor+ground cable for the travelers: The wires were connected as I indicated on the previous email. I think that there are enough wires at this point.

There are no posts on the Cooper switches just 4 wires: red, brown, black, & green.
 
  #5  
Old 05-20-07, 12:58 PM
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wiring diagram

I placed a scan of the wiring diagram at:

http://www.thebigogre.com/3waycooper.tif

It's a little large. If you have trouble accessing it, let me know.

Thanks!
 
  #6  
Old 05-20-07, 03:00 PM
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upload the image as a .jpg file.

Most people don't have the correct program to read .tif files
 
  #7  
Old 05-20-07, 04:57 PM
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Where does the new cable run? Between the switches?
Where do the old two wire cables run? To the light? between the switches?
Where does the power come in? light? one of switches?
How many lights? What wattage? You need a minimum of 100 watts to make them work. That would be real watts not the equivalent wattage of a CFL bulb.
 
  #8  
Old 05-20-07, 05:05 PM
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I did get the digram to load, and must admit I am somwhat confused by what are you calling common, and why is a common labeled as connected to a traveler.

One important item I noted at the Cooper website is that if your lamps are fluorescent, this item is compatible ONLY with magnetic ballasts. It is not compatible with many compact fluorescents, especially the screw-ins or a 2 pin plug-in, or with a 4' T-8 fixture.
 
  #9  
Old 05-20-07, 06:31 PM
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Smile trying to answer questions

The diagram that I uploaded to my web site was printed by Cooper with my scribbles superimposed over it. The electrician originally wired it the way one would normally wire 2 3-way switches. When it didn't work, he rewired per the schematic supplied withthe switches. The diagram is there as a pjg file"

http://www.thebigogre.com/3waycooper.jpg

lamps - I'm using a fixture that has a GU10 bulb in it. Don't think that it is a flourescent. Halogen..maybe? It is a 50 watt bulb but I didn't expect that to be an issue. But I'm not an electrician.

NEW CABLE - it runs between the switch boxes. Black and red conductors are used as the travelers. The green is used appropriately as the ground. And the white is used to carry the the secons side of the circuit to the lamp.

OLD CABLE - The old cable is still used to carry the power. The old white (OW) conductor runs through the boxes without connecting to the switches. The black (OB) is used as the common.

If you look at the diagram, the power is coming in from the left hand switch and exiting the right hand switch to the fixture.
 
  #10  
Old 05-20-07, 07:01 PM
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So you are saying that power comes into one switch and the light connects at the other switch. Sounds like yo uhave it wire properly.
How many watts of light are connected to these units? What type of lights?
What else is in the room? Maybe they are being triggered again as soon as they go off.
 
  #11  
Old 05-20-07, 07:53 PM
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GU10 is a bulb base type. It describes 2 plug-in pins, spaced 10 mm apart. It is probably a halogen, so the fluorescent ballast is not an issue. It may be a low voltage light, but the transformer should not be an issue. Just to be sure, could you temporarily wire a regular light bulb fixture in place of the halogen, and see if that changes the symptoms.

I would like to see the rest of that instruction sheet. Doesn't seem to be available on the cooper website. The problem with this type of device is that you are operating an electronic circuit...the motion sensor and switching....by the "power stealing" method.....meaning they just allow a little bit of current to leak through at all times, not enough to light the lamp, but enough to power the circuits. This is why electronic fluorescent ballast cannot be used, and why the minumum wattage is necesassary...you have to leak enough current to power 2 devices, so in your case the 50 watt halogen may not be OK. Again, try to temporarily take that entire halogen fixture out of the circuit and substitute a regular fixture with a 100 watt bulb. This may solve the problem, but of course you will have to select a different fixture for your room!
 
  #12  
Old 05-20-07, 08:09 PM
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The light is a recessed can in the middle of a 20 foot by 3 foot hallway. The switches are at each end of the hallway facing the opposite wall of the hallway (3feet from the other wall). Just the one 50 watt light. I wondered if the light was triggering the other sensor but I ruled that out by covering the sensor with masking tape.

I've installed the same sensor switches (not 3-way) in two other areas of the house with no problem.

I will be calling Cooper's technical support tommorrow to see what they have to say about the problem that I am having. They only work 9-5 EDT Monday thru Friday. Oh yeah....there are no troubleshooting instructions for installing the switches in a three-way configuration. Only the diagram addresses that installation. The rest of the document focuses on a 3-way installed as a single motion sensor with a normal 3-way at the other end. Not much help.

But, if any of you have an idea for me to try, I'm willing.

Thanks
 
  #13  
Old 05-21-07, 03:58 PM
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The instructions you posted did say with two switches you might require a minimum 100 watts to make them work.
 
  #14  
Old 05-22-07, 12:16 PM
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Thumbs up Problem Solved

I spoke with the tech rep from Cooper who after much testing, reviewing the connections, and reinstalling the old 3-way switches...decided that the wiring was correct. He then suggested exchanging the switches at the retailer and installing the new ones. That resolved the problem even with a single 60 watt incandescent light bulb!

Apparently one of the switches was bad. Sometimes the simplest soolution is the right one.

Thanks for all of the help! It was appreciated.
 
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