stove breaker tripped, wont reset. bad breaker ?

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  #1  
Old 06-15-07, 03:16 PM
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stove breaker tripped, wont reset. bad breaker ?

ITE bulldog pushmatic panel.

220V electric stove died, checked beaker, tripped.

when i tried to reset it, it wouldnt reset. it didnt try to reset, like when you have a short and the breaker resets for a second. it just wouldnt click to the on position when i pushed it in.

i have an arc welder breaker in the same panel, would it be a good idea to switch breakers to see if it is a bad breaker ?( i think they are the same rating, but i will check first. if not i will buy a new breaker) or is there a chance there is a short, or something wrong with the stove?

my thinking is, its the breaker.

but if i knew what i was doing, i wouldnt be here asking questions.
 
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  #2  
Old 06-15-07, 04:00 PM
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Think back to the time when it first occurred, and what was going on. Did it happen when all 4 burners and the oven were going full blast? It is highly possible the breaker is bad since it won't reset, and considering the age of the breakers.
 
  #3  
Old 06-15-07, 04:14 PM
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it doesnt get used much. im a single man, cook with the microwave mostly.

but all four top burners,for pots, were on high and the stove was on 375 when it happened. i believe it is the original breaker, from about 1965.

the main was changed about 20 years ago, it fried.

but i think that was the only one.

assuming it is the breaker, and trying to change that first, is the right way to troubleshoot this then ?

i dont want to try to find an ITE bulldog pushmatic breaker if i dont have to.

and this just happened 2 hours ago. you seemed to be under the impression it happened awhile ago and im just now fixing it.
not sure if that makes a difference, but i thought i would mention it.
 
  #4  
Old 06-15-07, 09:54 PM
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Yes, try your spare breaker. The Pushmatics hold up pretty well, but they do go bad over time. Pushmatic breakers are still available to buy off the shelf at the supply house -- usually about $50 for a 2-pole.
 
  #5  
Old 06-15-07, 10:50 PM
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i just removed the stove breaker and put the arc welder breaker in.

stove works.

thanks for your help.

but now i have another problem.

the old stove breaker now works outside of the panel. i mean it can be clicked on and off without a problem.
does that mean it is still good?
maybe it just got some dirt or something stuck in there and i knocked it loose?
before i put the arc welder breaker in, i turned the old stove breaker around a few times to read everything and make sure it was rated the same as the arc welder breaker.

should i try putting the old stove breaker back in and see if it works ?

there was no reason for it to trip in the first place. it hasnt tripped in 30 years.

any easy way to tell if it is bad?
 
  #6  
Old 06-16-07, 03:43 AM
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Are the two breakers the same (current) size? If so then it sounds like the breaker is bad. If not then you still may have a problem.
 
  #7  
Old 06-16-07, 03:46 AM
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You could go ahead and reinstall it, but if it is the same rating as the welder, why not just install it on the welder location and try the welder. It would save a little time. If the welder holds up and the stove holds up, you should have it licked. If the welder kicks it out, then replacing the breaker may be necessary.
 
  #8  
Old 06-16-07, 08:13 AM
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not sure what you mean by "current" size. they are both 50A ,220V. i am going to assume you meant amps as opposed to physical size.

so there is no easy way to tell if it is still good? just put it back in and try it again ?

if it wouldnt reset outside of the panel, i would just trash it, but since it works now, it would be great if i could save a few bucks.
 
  #9  
Old 06-16-07, 05:00 PM
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Nope, there is no way that you can test the breaker to see if it is still good.

As Chandler recommended, install the suspect breaker in the slot for the welder. If the breaker is simply tripping on a lower current it may work perfectly well in the welder circuit, or maybe not. You already know it doesn't work in the range circuit.

Normally I would suggest that you simply replace the breaker with a new one but in your case that is not an option, at least not an inexpensive option.
 
  #10  
Old 06-17-07, 07:40 AM
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You need a machine for accurately testing circuit breakers. The breaker that you have has already been shown to be faulty so junk it. You don't want it to fail in the ON position next time.
 
  #11  
Old 06-17-07, 08:48 AM
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thanks everyone, i will trash it.

i already know it tripped for no reason and it is about 30 years old, those are good enough reasons to trash it but, i thought maybe there was an easy way to test it.
 
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