Another water heater ? and 240 vs 120 air conditioner

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  #1  
Old 07-02-07, 07:15 AM
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Another water heater ? and 240 vs 120 air conditioner

I'm installing an electric water heater in a finished bathroom. This is a place in the country, so it doesn't have to be pretty, but it needs to be safe. I've run 10/2 NM from the panel to where either a single or double gang box will be. I'm trying to figure out how to best finish the connection to the water heater. Since this is out of sight of the main panel, I've got a 30 amp double pole switch for the shutoff. I was thinking I needed a couple feet of armored cable to make the last part, but how do you do it in a finished room?

Another question on 240 vs. 120. I'm also installing a large through the wall air conditioner. I've found the 120v ones are cheaper, probably b/c they sell so many more of them. I'm doing a dedicated circuit anyway, so would I be better off doing 120 or 240? Are the 240's any more efficient (other than electricity lost through wiring)?

Thanks again, hopefully Racraft will toss in an opinion.
 
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  #2  
Old 07-02-07, 07:28 AM
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If you have the ability to install a new circuit, you'd be better off with the 240-volt circuit, primarily because it will allow you to install a more powerful A/C if you need or want it. 240 is not (noticeably) more efficient than 120, but it will save a bit on wiring costs, at the expense of a slightly more expensive breaker and using up an additional spot in the panel.
 
  #3  
Old 07-02-07, 07:35 AM
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John pretty much summed up the air conditioner issue. I can't really add anything there.

You are on the right track for the water heater. Run the cable from the box to the water heater. The cable will attach to the box and to the water heater if you use the proper connectors on each end.
 
  #4  
Old 07-02-07, 08:17 AM
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Thanks for the quick responses. The tricky part on the WH is that this room will be drywalled. So I have the switch on the wall, okay. But how can I neatly have armored go to the WH? Do people just have armored coming through drywall? I think it would be code, since the connections would be made in the switchbox and the junction box that is part of the water heater.
 
  #5  
Old 07-02-07, 08:44 AM
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I perfer to splice the Branch-circuit conductors to the WH leads in a "1900" box because the connection cavity on the WH is so small. This can be done by setting the 1900 OB flat over the connection cavity with the WH leads entering the bottom-center KO of the 1900 OB. Use a "chase" bushing in the KO, and fasten the OB to the lining of the WH with a sheet-metal screw.It may be possible to use the existing hole for the SM screw that fastens the plate that covers the connection cavity

With the 1900 OB set on top of the WH, you can now use 1/2" EMT between the 1900 OB and the OB where the switch will be located IF you don't have a problem bending the 1/2" EMT.

You will need a "deep" 1900 OB for the 2-pole, 30 amp switch.

Good Luck,& Learn & Enjoy from the Experience!!!
 
  #6  
Old 07-02-07, 09:06 AM
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PATTBAA
Had a little trouble with comprehending all the abbreviations, but I think I got it. Well, all except how to connect the emt to a deep double gang box mounted IN the wall. I was also just considering using flex to make my life easier, but I do have an EMT bender. 1/2 does bend easy. I've also had good luck bending sch 40 pvc with a heat gun.

I already have tried the connectors inside the WH, plenty of room for those, thank you Whirlpool.

Thanks again all, I'm getting the confidence to do this.
 
  #7  
Old 07-02-07, 09:07 AM
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Either install a flush mount box, or install a cover on the box that allows the flex to come through the cover.
 
  #8  
Old 07-02-07, 09:17 AM
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They make faceplates that can take an emt connector and a switch?

I'm headed out to Lowes, I'll check back in about an hour.

Thanks guys, I just want this to look clean and to be safe.
 
  #9  
Old 07-02-07, 10:02 AM
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Stop doing your shopping at the big box stores. For items that are unusual or hard to find you generally have to visit an electrical supply house. The big box stores are fine for common, everyday items, but they just don't have the unusual (infrequently purchased) items.

In this case, you may need two boxes, one for the shutoff, and the other for the connector.
 
  #10  
Old 07-02-07, 11:18 AM
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The advantage to having a "1900" Outlet Box (OB) set flat is that each side of the OB has 3 "Knock-Outs ( KO's) for a connector. You then can use a "straight" ( compared to a "90" ) connector so the the EMT extends horizontaly from the OB across the top of the Water Heater ( WH) to the point in the wall where it bends and then extends vertically to to switch OB.

If you want neatness, you can paint the EMT orange, the cold-water supply line blue, and the hot-water supply line red.Also, a color for the pipe from the pressure-relief valve.
 
  #11  
Old 07-02-07, 11:24 AM
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I've also seen used (and used myself) flexible watertight conduit used from the junction box to the water heater. It looks nice (gray and smooth) and is a pinch to install. You can buy pre-assembled whips from the big box stores too. (1/2 tube with three 10ga wires installed.
 
  #12  
Old 07-03-07, 06:17 AM
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Talking

Originally Posted by racraft View Post
Stop doing your shopping at the big box stores. For items that are unusual or hard to find you generally have to visit an electrical supply house. The big box stores are fine for common, everyday items, but they just don't have the unusual (infrequently purchased) items.

In this case, you may need two boxes, one for the shutoff, and the other for the connector.
I think this is the route I will go. I'll get two single boxes and offset them a little from each other in the wall. Should look really nice.

And I do go to a local electrical supply house. Where do you think I got my cool Klein elecrician's bag?
 
  #13  
Old 07-03-07, 09:49 AM
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Thanks all. I ended up getting two metal single gang boxes. I hope I'm not violating wire fill though. The switch is a Carlton DP 30amp, only available in almond at Lowes (sorry Racraft). I also picked up their prewired 6' premade liquid tight 10/2/g cable. Should look real nice when it is done.
 
  #14  
Old 07-03-07, 10:22 AM
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I did not mean you can't shop or shouldn't shop at the big box stores. Quite the contrary. They generally have decent prices on common items. What I meant was that they are not the only game in town, and should not be looked at as experts. If they don't have what you need or you want a larger selection, then consider a specialty store, such as a lighting store for lights and an electric supply store for electric items.
 
  #15  
Old 07-05-07, 10:13 PM
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Yes, I find that electrical supply houses are better in both finding what you need, with less hassle. I would only go to the big box store if I just need a few things thats very popular and just swing by to save some gas.

Also you get cool promo gear, like shirts, bags, cups, whatever :-)
 
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