chandelier wiring
#1
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chandelier wiring
I bought a chandelier in Venice. I am replacing a ceiling light in a 30 year old house. The ceiling light had a standard 3 wire (black, white, bare) poking out through a 3/4" hole in our 1 1/4" wood paneled vaulted ceiling. Those wires cannot be pushed back up through the paneling. The connection with the fixture was made in the base of the fixture without an electrical box.
The chandelier has 2 copper wires in clear plastic with some white writing over one of the wires.
1) is it safe to make the electrical connection in the base of the chandelier?
2) which wire in the chandelier is which?
There was a "brace" across the hole in the paneling into which the threaded rod (through which the wire passes) is screwed. This particular brace was bent in such a way that the wires could be passed between the brace and the paneling to allow the connection to be made in the fixture base. There is a ground connection on that brace.
3) is it OK to attach the ground wire to the gnd connection on the brace?
Thanks, srogers
The chandelier has 2 copper wires in clear plastic with some white writing over one of the wires.
1) is it safe to make the electrical connection in the base of the chandelier?
2) which wire in the chandelier is which?
There was a "brace" across the hole in the paneling into which the threaded rod (through which the wire passes) is screwed. This particular brace was bent in such a way that the wires could be passed between the brace and the paneling to allow the connection to be made in the fixture base. There is a ground connection on that brace.
3) is it OK to attach the ground wire to the gnd connection on the brace?
Thanks, srogers
#2
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You need to install a j-box in the ceiling while you have the fixture off. They even make fan/chandelier-rated boxes that can be installed centered directly under joists, and some are made that include a brace that spans between joists, depending on which you need. Since the cable is already there, they have types available that can be installed from below. The box will have a strain-relief for the cable.
The wire with the writing SHOULD be the neutral. That is normal in the US, though you say you bought it overseas... Caveat emptor.
You may be able to verify this by seeing which wire makes the connection to the center of the light socket (hot) and which connects to the sides (neutral). I am assuming you know this overseas-bought fixture is 120V?
The wire with the writing SHOULD be the neutral. That is normal in the US, though you say you bought it overseas... Caveat emptor.
You may be able to verify this by seeing which wire makes the connection to the center of the light socket (hot) and which connects to the sides (neutral). I am assuming you know this overseas-bought fixture is 120V?
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chandelier
Thanks-I do not know for sure that it is wired for 120V. I just assumed it was since they knew we were from the US. I will find out.
There will be no strain on the wiring since the chandelier is hanging from a hook about a foot away from the base. I was trying to stay away from blindly cutting into my ceiling. It is 1 & 1/4 inches thick, and I would like not to ruin it. I cannot even get my little finger up into the existing hole with the wire in it to explore what is above.
Is a ground connected to the chain and chandelier sufficient?
Thanks, srogers
There will be no strain on the wiring since the chandelier is hanging from a hook about a foot away from the base. I was trying to stay away from blindly cutting into my ceiling. It is 1 & 1/4 inches thick, and I would like not to ruin it. I cannot even get my little finger up into the existing hole with the wire in it to explore what is above.
Is a ground connected to the chain and chandelier sufficient?
Thanks, srogers
#4
If no weight on the J-box (you said supported by a hook) and the chandelier base is deep enough you may be able to use a metal pancake box. They are only 3/4" deep and can be mounted to the surface.
#6
> Thanks-I do not know for sure that it is wired for 120V.
> I just assumed it was since they knew we were from the US.
If the bulbs are very, very dim (possibly even no visible light) when you turn it on, then you have a European 230V fixture which will need new bulbs, sockets and/or internal wiring for the North American 120V system.
> Is a ground connected to the chain and chandelier sufficient?
If it doesn't have a ground wire or screw terminal (sometimes marked "Earth" in Europe) on the fixture, then just connecting the ground wire to the metal box is sufficient. I doubt that a painted chain has a low enough impedance to be an effective ground anyway.
> I just assumed it was since they knew we were from the US.
If the bulbs are very, very dim (possibly even no visible light) when you turn it on, then you have a European 230V fixture which will need new bulbs, sockets and/or internal wiring for the North American 120V system.
> Is a ground connected to the chain and chandelier sufficient?
If it doesn't have a ground wire or screw terminal (sometimes marked "Earth" in Europe) on the fixture, then just connecting the ground wire to the metal box is sufficient. I doubt that a painted chain has a low enough impedance to be an effective ground anyway.
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Conflicting opinions
I have gotten conflicting opinions regarding the wiring of an Italian (Murano Glass) chandelier. It has a 2 wire cord. Both wires are copper and are enclosed in transparent plastic. There is writing over one of the wires. The writing is:
salcavi technic italy (ul)
E212322 SVT
18AWGx3C 300V
105 degrees C VW-1
CSA 181489 2005
I have 2 votes for neutral and one for hot. If anyone is sure, I would appreciate it. Thanks
salcavi technic italy (ul)
E212322 SVT
18AWGx3C 300V
105 degrees C VW-1
CSA 181489 2005
I have 2 votes for neutral and one for hot. If anyone is sure, I would appreciate it. Thanks
#8
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As mentioned in the other thread, the US normal is that the writing or dotted lines, or whatever will be on the neutral.
But you should verify this with your European fixture and physically see which wire lands where, like I recommended in the other thread. No room for opinions, or votes. This is not a popularity contest. Find out the answer on your fixture.
But you should verify this with your European fixture and physically see which wire lands where, like I recommended in the other thread. No room for opinions, or votes. This is not a popularity contest. Find out the answer on your fixture.
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Please do not start a separate thread for the same issue.
Stop guessing or asking questions for which we must guess. Use your voltmeter and determine which is the neutral.
Stop guessing or asking questions for which we must guess. Use your voltmeter and determine which is the neutral.