outdoor power

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  #1  
Old 08-03-07, 03:02 PM
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outdoor power

I am running buried power to my shed. (actually, it is already run, but the guy that built the house got side tracked and forgot to hook it up to the outside panel at the house before he buried the septic/fuel tank/power line.) It is gray 10 gauge 3+ground, that I will be connecting to two separate 15 amp breakers, creating two circuits for my shed, one for lights, one for outlets. I have a few questions. Right now the line is not in conduit, just buried. I have some extra EMT laying around; should I put the part I dig up into EMT just for some extra protection? It has to be buried 24" outside conduit, and 18" in conduit, correct? I know I need a switch to kill each circuit where it comes into the shed, and I will make the first outlet on each circuit a GFCI, but I don't need some kind of sub-panel in the shed, do I? The breakers on the main box outside the house where I will be tying in should be adequate, correct? Once I get into the shed, 14 gauge should be ample, correct? Just trying to cut down on my expenses.

On another note/project, I will be adding to my garage circuit by running wire through EMT to the wall that has no outlets now. If I am running through EMT, do I need sheathed wire, or can I run individual strands? (not bare of course) Will it be cheaper to buy that than romex or some other sheathed cable? Again, 14 gauge should be big enough on a 15 amp circuit, correct?
 
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  #2  
Old 08-03-07, 03:55 PM
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You don't need to use a subpanel you can run a multi wire circuit. You could probably use up to a 20 amp 240 breaker. However I would suggest you install a 30 amp subpanel if the distance is not to far. It will give you more flexibility and future capacity.

Yes you can use conduit for protection where exposed. Gray is often the color for UF but check to be sure it is UF.

Best practice is to use individual conductors in conduit so that's ok for the garage. (The shed is an exception because it is only used for protection for short distances.)
 
  #3  
Old 08-03-07, 06:35 PM
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Note with 14ga wire, the maximum breaker you can use is a 15A. How long is the run from the breaker box to the shed? If it's not too long, you can use 20A breakers and 12ga wire in the shed. (the 10ga is to reduce voltage drop over the long distance).

Or as ray mentioned, if the distance isn't too great, you can use a 30A subpanel and 30A breakers at the house. Then you can choose 15 or 20A in the shed in the small subpanel.
 
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Old 08-03-07, 07:24 PM
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Let me amend my reply a bit.I missed you wanted to use #14 in the shed. As Zorfdt said in that case you would have to use a 240v/15a breaker. The cost difference though between #14 and #12 is small so a 20a circuit is something to consider if you don't want to use a sub panel.
 
  #5  
Old 08-04-07, 02:20 AM
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Throw that emt away. gray uf cable with 3 #10's and ground is good for 18" underground and would be good to protect it with 3/4 pvc coming with with 30 amp sub panel. 30 amp sub panel with several cicuits of both 20 and 15 amps. You size your sub panel with total amount of amps on breakers but rather the load that is calculated for the shed. You want to save time and money? run romex instead of conduit. You're not going to be able to run through the studs and romex is a better choice for residential.
 
  #6  
Old 08-04-07, 03:49 PM
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Smile

jamead65____It's a good idea to proof-read your responses. You require the word "not" between the words (sub-panel with ) in your last post. I'm sure you'll find it right away.
 
  #7  
Old 08-10-07, 04:52 AM
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next?

OK, two locators and 9 feet of digging later, I have found the end of the wire. Unfortunately, there is not enough to reach the house, so I am going to have to do an underground splice (still way to much buried to dig it up and start over), sooooo.......what do I need to make sure this splice is up to code? Do I need a special underground junction box, or what? Thanks for all your help
 
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Old 08-10-07, 05:55 AM
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You need an underground splice kit.
 
  #9  
Old 08-10-07, 04:49 PM
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chelly,

IMOand only a suggestion, if you can afford it and it's not that long, replace the cable completely. There's nothing saying that you have too, just lessens the possibility of a potential problem in the future. A continuous run without any breaks is the better way to go. As I mentioned, it's only a suggestion and either way would be ok.
 
  #10  
Old 08-13-07, 10:19 PM
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Unfortunately, the run is 110 feet long and 9 feet down, so digging it up and starting over is not an option financially or time wise. I need another 25 feet to get to the power box at the house, so a splice will be necessary. The guy at home depot (not my first choice for advice, which is why I am writing to you guys) said that I should call an electrician to do the job since the possibilities of stuff going wrong are so great. Another guy I talked to said that all I need are butt splices and then wrap the splice in self vulcanizing tape. What do you guys think? What does a splice kit involve? I hate to spend money paying people to do things that I can do myself (hence this site). Thanks.
 
  #11  
Old 08-14-07, 08:10 AM
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An underground splice kit is only ten bucks. Use it.

If you do decide to replace the cable, note that you don't have to dig up the old one to do so. Nine feet down!?!?! Wow!
 
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