Someone told me I needed a 20 AMP outlet and I can't believe that. I think my kitchen outlet is just a run of the mill 110V 3 prong. Can I just use that?

Thanks for the help!

 

I believe code requires a dedicated 20-amp circuit for the refrigerator. However, a 20-amp receptacle is not required unless it's the only one in the circuit. Since a duplex receptacle counts as two, a 15-amp receptacle is OK.

 

You can plug a refrigerator into any outlet you want.

 

Thanks guys.

So I am a little confused because I think I have 2 different answers. I don't worry about code issues, just want to know about safety & power.

I guess my basic question is; can I plug in my spare big ass kitchen fridge into a simple 110V 3 prong?

Thanks again!

 

Yes, you can. If you look around on the fridge, you will find a metal plate which specifies how many amps or watts the fridge draws. Most fridges with a defrost cycle are something like 8 or 10 amps max; a just a couple amps if the fridge doesn't have a defrost cycle. A residential circuit can supply 15 or 20A (1800 or 2400W).

 

I think the only kitchen appliance that a dedicated circuit would be suggested for is a microwave oven.

 

I finally found a clear answer online from a Whirlpool manual:

"Recommended Grounding Method
A 115 Volt, 60 Hz., AC only 15- or 20-amp fused, grounded
electrical supply is required. It is recommended that a separate
circuit serving only your refrigerator be provided. Use an outlet
that cannot be turned off by a switch. Do not use an
extension cord.
IMPORTANT: If this product is connected to a GFCI (Ground Fault
Circuit Interrupter) protected outlet, nuisance tripping of the
power supply may occur, resulting in loss of cooling. Food quality
and flavor may be affected. If nuisance tripping has occurred,
if the condition of the food appears poor, dispose of it."

 

Many people would _recommend_ the use of a dedicated 15A or 20A circuit, but as stated, neither is required.

That said, I've lived in a number of houses that are plagued by the problem of turning on the toaster, microwave, and fridge at the same time, and the breaker tripping. It's irritating, but that's life.

Also, note that some larger-than-life refrigerators probably need a dedicated circuit (sub zero, etc)... but as you found in the manual, that's not your case.

 

As with everything in your house that you plug in anywhere, it is always wise to compare the total load that you have connected to a circuit with the maximum load that the circuit can support. Most people don't do this, however, so the circuit breaker exists in case you don't do a good job.

The refrigerator is no different in this respect than anything else.