need 220V line for electric dryer

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  #1  
Old 09-11-07, 07:10 PM
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need 220V line for electric dryer

I just moved into a home built in the 80s with a 100A main SP and an 50A subpanel today. I noted that there is no 220V supply in the laundry room that is located in the garage at present. The main SP is a GE 20 space 100A box with the model # CZ064723 CTL (I assume quite old as I have not been able to find one like it in person or on the internet). I hope that it will not require replacing the entire main SP. On the left the spaces are numbered odd 1 - 19. On the right the spaces are numbered 2 - 20 even. There appears to be space in the box cover/face on the left hand side for spaces 15, 17, and 19. I am planning to install a 30A double pole 1/2" breaker for my 220V line to the electrical dryer but am not sure if I should connect to the main SP or to the subpanel. The wiring will be run through surface mounted conduit to the receptacle where it will connect to a flush mounted 4 wire receptacle. Some additional info: there are 2 meters on the outside wall where the main SP and the subpanel are located. There is an apartment in the basement that I questioned the previous owner if the 50A box was supplying it and he reassured me that they have their own supply but I am not sure at the moment (something I will need to confirm in the morning during daylight). It may be possible this is feeding their apartment but the only thing in this "subpanel" appears to be the 50A main disconnect with no spaces available for additional breakers. I want to get a honest opinion about the feasibilty of adding this line. Thanks in advance.
 
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  #2  
Old 09-11-07, 10:03 PM
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I'm not sure if I have a clue what you're talking about. What exactly is the "SP"? Are you planning on having the laundry room in the house or are you leaving it in the garage? Where are the panels located? Are you planning on renting out the apartment? If so, who's the dryer outlet for? Why are you thinking about replacing the panel?

Maybe you're just overthinking things, but you're confusing the hell out of me.
 
  #3  
Old 09-12-07, 06:31 AM
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Sorry for the confusion. The situation has me a little confused as well. The panel is in the garage. The laundry room will remain in the garage. The apartment is rented at present. The dryer will be for my use. As I mentioned there is a 20 space 100A GE main service panel (electric panel) with its own meter on the outside wall and a 50A panel next to it that also has its own meter. I do not want to replace the panel unless I need to. That is part of my question. The spaces open are #s 15, 17 and 19 (three slots on the lower left). The box is an old one and does not look like it will accept the 1/2" double pole GE 30A CB so I will need to use the usual 1" double pole 30A CB. The receptacle has been wire and the 10-3 wire run back to the main service panel. All that is left is to wire the breaker, shut the main, wire the neutral and ground to the appropriate bars and plug in the 30A breaker. Am I missing anything? The house is 2000SF. There is a 40A CB feeding the A/C. The remaining 16 circuits are divided evenly between 15A and 20A breakers. The house has gas stove/oven, d/w (never used), hot water heating to baseboards throughout the house. So there is no real major demand.
 
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Old 09-12-07, 06:35 AM
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As long as you have a proper breaker for your panel and it will give you 240 volts when properly installed you are fine.
 
  #5  
Old 09-12-07, 07:12 AM
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Thanks. I guess I was concerned because I could not find my service panel anywhere (big box, online etc.). It did look like the GE 1210 but nowhere on my box does it tell you. It only says CZ064723 and I wanted to be sure the GE CB I have will work. Looking at the bars and the configuration of the 30A CB I have, it looks like it will work. Just wanted to be sure. Thanks again.
 
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Old 09-12-07, 04:08 PM
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The only condseration about the GE breakerbox is that it did get my attetion here anyway i will cut to the chase real quick.

There are pretty good percentage of GE breaker do come in half inch format this part if you have them in your breaker box you have to becarefull with this because if you land the double pole 1 inch breaker aka two half inch breakers you have to make sure you land on both buss bar tabs or clips to order to get 240 volts.

This is pretty common to get 120 volts instead of 240 if not heed the warning.

The breaker panel cover i know you got one type of number but really there is other number it should be on the paper it will list the type of breaker it can be used so just watch out on this one

Merci , Marc
 
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Old 09-13-07, 05:59 AM
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Thanks for the advice.
 
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Old 09-13-07, 08:26 AM
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Just to let you know, my guess is from your description of the 1/2" double pole breaker, that you actually have a tandom breaker. They are actually 2 breakers in one. There should be no voltage potential between the two because they are the same phase. I know you're talking about using a 1" breaker and I'm assuming that that's a proper 2-pole breaker. I'm just telling you about the tandom breaker so that you don't use it in the future, think it's a 2-pole breaker, and try to share a neutral between the two. This could cause your neutral wire to burn up.

As far as your panels go, I'm not exactly sure why you're asking if you should replace them. I can't think of why you'd need to. Sounds like you've got you dryer circuit wired right.

I've got another question for you. I'm assuming that the only panels you have are the 2 in the garage... Is the garage attached to the house?

Don't feel bad about the confusion, if you were an electrical expert and knew all the info that you needed to convey, chances are you wouldn't be here asking questions. None of us here get paid for giving advice. We do it for the for the satisfaction of helping others. Believe it or not, we also learn with you. Electricity is a technology that's everchanging and every electrician on here learns form each other.
 
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Old 09-13-07, 08:37 AM
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brewcityc,

GE panels are different than most others. The issue of tandem breakers may not apply. Read Marc's post.
 
  #10  
Old 09-13-07, 09:05 AM
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If you have an EXTERIOR S-P ,where do the cables that terminate on the breakers connect to the S-P enclosure ? There are five possibilties -- they enter Top / Bottom / Left-side / Right-side / Rear
 
  #11  
Old 09-13-07, 12:20 PM
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First, I would like to thank everyone for all their help and advice. The SP is in the garage, which I should have mentioned is attached to the house. The circuit wires com in to the SP from both the top and bottom while the main supply lines come in from the back near the top. The SP box model number is TM 1010. On closer inspection, I am not sure that I have enough room in the panel to install the 30A breaker. To free up space can I convert some of the existing breakers to tandem breakers?
 
  #12  
Old 09-13-07, 01:23 PM
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Brewcityc;

here is the photo what i am talking about here ,...http://ec1.images-amazon.com/images/...PL._AA160_.jpg

this photo will show 1 inch double pole arragement which i refering what i am saying eairler to clearify it more

Gusthebus : if you have the breaker box with very simuar to this you can used this but i will advise to check the bussbar tabs to see if this set up will take this kind of beaker other wise you can use the full size stanard GE two pole breaker as well

Merci , Marc

p.s. that photo will just show the idea but you can get it in few diffrent amparage rating as well
 
  #13  
Old 09-13-07, 01:44 PM
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french277V, thank you. I have both THQP230 (which you sent a picture) and THQL2130 which is the 30A double pole that would take up 2 spaces (2"). My dilemna now is that I do not think either will fit if I do not convert some of the pre-existing circuits to tandems or install a subpanel or upgrade the current SP. As I mentioned it is an old SP model TM1010.
 
  #14  
Old 09-13-07, 02:02 PM
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It is clear that the thinner THQP230 will not work with this panel. Also, I only have spaces 15, 17 and 19 open so I need to free up space. I am told that only a Murray tandem CB can be obtained for this panel in order to tandem some of the pre-existing circuits. Does this sound correct?
 
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