Getting Ready for Inspection

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  #1  
Old 09-16-07, 04:51 AM
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Getting Ready for Inspection

First, I would like to say thanks to all that have been a great help!! Between some readings and you I never thought I would learn this much.

Before my inspection what should I have connected in the main panel? Just the neutral and ground? All wire should be inside correct? Just not connected at the hot. My wire to the panel is long enough to touch bottom and back to the top of the panel. How much of that do I need? My rough installation is almost complete and I have to install smoke detectors tomorrow. What I have now, are my pigtails sticking out of the recepticle boxes, and my j-box spliced. What should I pigtail on my light switch box? 1 wire is 12/2 and the other 12/3. Neutrals get spliced and don't need a pigtail and the grounds can get nutted together to ground box and device. 12/2 (power in) black goes to device and 12/3 black and red get pigtailed to device if I only have one switch? What if I have 2 switches? Just thinking ahead if I ever want two switches.

Thanks for the help. I like to clarify what I think before I start to move forward.
 
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Old 09-16-07, 12:39 PM
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Sounds like you're doing well. Unless your inspector stated otherwise, I'd make all teminations in advance. If the panel's not hot, you can leave the cover off for him to inspect. Otherwise, you can open up the devices for him to inspect per his request. If you aren't going to terminate the devices yet, then yes, it's a good idea to leave the wires off the breakers in the panel. Neutral and ground is OK to terminate. As for the length of the wires in the panel, I always leave enough length to move the wires anywhere in the panel. If you have to move a circuit to a different breaker to make room for a 240volt circuit, or to free up one of the legs so that you can run a network (shared neutral circuits), then you're covered. Just try to keep the wires neat so that it doesn't turn into a rat's nest. This also shows good workmanship to the inspector.

I believe that I answered the light switch question before. Both the red and black switch legs pigtail to the "on" side of the switch. If you decide to add a second switch, move one of the switchlegs off the first switch to the second, and pigtail another hot to the second switch. As I said before, if you want to fill up the blank space in the switch box for now, you can pigtail off the hot and neutral and add an outlet. This can later be removed to add a second switch. The fan should already be wired correctly so you won't have to touch that.

One added caution about working with neutrals though. Turning off the power to the circuit that you're working on does not necessarily mean there's no current on the neutral. If the neutral's being shared with another circuit, you must turn both circuits off to kill the neutral. Opening a neutral on a hot circuit can also fry out any electronic devices on that circuit. This is just to keep in mind if you decide to remove the outlet in the future...

You haven't replied with any box dimensions, so I'm assuming you're not worried about boxfill anymore? If you are, post the dimensions of the box (length, width, and depth) along with the number of wires/devices in the box and size of wires. Also need to know if the box has a plaster ring and if so, we need to know the depth and if it's single gang, double gang, ect. Lastly, don't foret that all of the ground wires in a box only count as 1 wire.

Good luck with the inspection!
 
  #3  
Old 09-16-07, 02:31 PM
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Thank you

I think you did answer the light question before, but I might of forgot that I asked it. Box fill I have a grasp of and I think I'm all set as long as the inspector returns my call about local codes while I put the finishing touches on everthing.

Just to double check though:

If I join a box that is 13cu in to a box that is 12.5cu in by screwing them together as the product allows me), I can call that a 25.5cu in box right? Say for the light switch box that has 1 clamp, 1 ground, 1 switch, and 5 wires =8 X 2.25=18. Is it ok to add a 2 1/2 deep switch box to a 2 3/4 deep box to create more room?

Also, do you need KO clamps if only one wire is going through its' own KO? You need the clamp when more than 1 is going through the same KO correct? I'm concerned about the j-box and the ceiling box.

J-box:
3- 12/2 wires (7) = 15.75. I have one 2x3x2.5 box screwed on top of a 2x3x2.75 box. (that OK?) There may be an interior clamp inside still, I think that's why I doubled the box.
 
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Old 09-16-07, 08:20 PM
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Joining the 2 boxes: As long as the end product is sealed Ie; not a 1/4" gap of open air. (I would suggest 2 -13 CI boxes) You would be correct.

Clamp; If there is a "KO" in a metal box and a cable or more enters it, there must be a clamp/connector for it (cable).

Remove unused clamps.

Rough inspection: ALL splices should be made up, so when the time comes all you need do is add the devices.

No need for any panel work for a rough. That will come with the Final.
 
  #5  
Old 09-19-07, 03:24 AM
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Inspection was yestreday and went very well. Thank you to those that were a big help. I appreciate it.

Only thing wrong though, I forgot to put a ground screw in one box. At least the ground was looped around the hole ready for the screw!

Thanks all!!
 
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