Service Upgrade Help Needed


  #1  
Old 09-26-07, 11:41 AM
C
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 51
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Service Upgrade Help Needed

I am having my service upgraded...from fuses to breakers. Does it make a difference whether the electric service is run through the basement or the attic? One contractor said you should never run the electric through the attic space as the temperature in the summer in the attic reaches such high temperatures that the electricity flowing will be reduced. He said you should put the electric through a 70-75 degree environment for it to run properly. Is this true....????
 
  #2  
Old 09-26-07, 12:28 PM
F
Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: NE Wis / Paris France{ In France for now }
Posts: 4,364
Upvotes: 0
Received 2 Upvotes on 2 Posts
Originally Posted by CTGrandma
I am having my service upgraded...from fuses to breakers. Does it make a difference whether the electric service is run through the basement or the attic? One contractor said you should never run the electric through the attic space as the temperature in the summer in the attic reaches such high temperatures that the electricity flowing will be reduced. He said you should put the electric through a 70-75 degree environment for it to run properly. Is this true....????
The question related to the tempture yes that is true genrally if we run the wires in the attic it have few compated factors we have to deal with it.

the other thing that majorty of the time the service upgrading is useally out of the diy's scope what they can do because there are few things what will happend is that there is the code issuse have to dealt with it and what it have in exsting service now and other thing is depending on the POCO [ power company ] regulations it will depend on how they will bring in the power to your place then there is a set of code depending on the metering loaction and main breaker box location is and how far it is.

you should have at least 3 estamates for the service upgrading so you can compared what they charge for it.

and they should able expain real breif where they will run the new breaker box for it

Merci, Marc
 
  #3  
Old 09-26-07, 01:20 PM
I
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Near Lansing, Michigan
Posts: 9,785
Upvotes: 0
Received 45 Upvotes on 43 Posts
Originally Posted by CTGrandma
Does it make a difference whether the electric service is run through the basement or the attic?
Yes it does matter, but not enough to worry about in most cases because of the way that residential services are sized. This depends on your geographic location too. For example attic temperature is not something we worry a great deal about in Michigan, but is a reasonable consideration in Arizona.

He said you should put the electric through a 70-75 degree environment for it to run properly
It is true that a cooler environment is better, but it is not necessarily a requirement. Running wires through a hot environment could require the electrician to use larger (more expensive) wires than he would have to use in a cooler environment like a basement or underground.

Another possibility is that the guy really doesn't like working in attics.
 
  #4  
Old 09-26-07, 03:18 PM
S
Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 13
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Never thru the attic. It should be coming in below your main floor (in the joist space).

I agree with getting a few more quotes.

The other problem with it being in the attic is that the service will then have a higher likelihood of getting stepped on which is never a good thing
 
  #5  
Old 09-26-07, 04:29 PM
C
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 51
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
I do live in Connecticut, so the temperature in the attic is generally on the cooler side. It can get warm up there in the summer months. I am so confused! The replies given here say that putting it in the attic does not matter, but another reply says definitely not the attic. How do I make the proper decision. The basement is a finished basement, so it would be better asthetically if the electric did run through the attic.


So....what do I do? I have to make a decision rather quickly as the voltage is so low at this point that it's tough to even run a hair dryer!
 
  #6  
Old 09-27-07, 07:41 AM
Z
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 6,095
Received 422 Upvotes on 375 Posts
I can't imagine running your feeder through the attic being a problem. First off, since you're doing a service upgrade, you're probably going up to 150A or 200A, which is likely (should be) significantly more than you need, and so you'll never be taxing the wires. If you want to be add an extra margin of safety, have the electrician run a slightly larger wire to compensate for the heat of the attic.

Also, you should ensure your attic has sufficient ventilation, for the wiring, but more so for cooling your house, preventing moisture build-up, etc. In CT, your attic should never be more than 130 or 140 in a worst case scenario... which really shouldn't be affecting your electrical wires up there.

Good luck!
 
  #7  
Old 09-27-07, 08:27 AM
I
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Near Lansing, Michigan
Posts: 9,785
Upvotes: 0
Received 45 Upvotes on 43 Posts
Originally Posted by CTGrandma
How do I make the proper decision. The basement is a finished basement, so it would be better asthetically if the electric did run through the attic.
There is no national code which specifically prohibits running a service through the attic. There could be a state code, local code, or power company rule that prevents it in your area, but most places directly follow National Electric Code. You should ask the contractor who told you that services can't be in the attic to explain whether it is a personal choice or a local code which prevents it.

There are rules which could require the electrician to use a larger size wire because of the higher temperature which may add to the overall cost of the project. In my opinion, attic temperature is not high enough to warrant upsized conductors, but each contractor will vary.

Given that your basement ceiling is finished, I would recommend that you hire an electrician who will run the service through the attic to minimize the disruption to the building finish. Getting 3-4 quotes is always a good idea for a project like this; service upgrade price can vary quite a bit.
 
  #8  
Old 09-27-07, 09:50 AM
ray2047's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 29,711
Upvotes: 0
Received 15 Upvotes on 13 Posts
Living in an area where no house has a basement and almost all are on slabs I was a bit surprised by the question. Heck, you could probably bake a cake in our attics. In all fairness you do see a lot of EMT strapped to the side of older houses but I always thought that was just for ease of upgrade. With no snow load to consider I have seen gables no higher then 2 feet at the peak. Add in AC ducts getting anywhere in the attic would take a trained monkey as a helper.
 
  #9  
Old 09-27-07, 12:02 PM
P
Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: port chester n y
Posts: 1,983
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Presuming the Service Dis-connecting Means will be located on the exterior, where is the panel located ? Basement , 1st-.-floor ? and what type of structure is this ? a Ranch?

What is the appox distance from the exterior Service equiptments -- the meter-socket & the Dis-connect -- to the panel ? It MAY be possible to route the Feeder across the ceiling of the finished basement and conceal it above woodwork.

If the water-service line is metallic-- pipe or tubing -- it MIGHT be necessary to run a larger Grounding Conductor from the water service to the exterior Dis-Connect .
 
  #10  
Old 10-02-07, 01:28 PM
C
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 51
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
The service disconnect switch will be located on the exterior of the house. The panel is located on the 1st floor in a laundry room. The panel is probably 50 feet from the exterior disconnect. This home is a raised ranch.

The ceiling in the basement is NOT a drop ceiling. The ceiling would have to be dismantled in certain areas in order to install wiring to be concealed.

The water service line is in the means of a well.
 
  #11  
Old 10-04-07, 12:41 PM
P
Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: port chester n y
Posts: 1,983
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Be certain that the ampacity of the new Service Entrance Conductors is 200 amps.

You may need two 100 amp circuit-breakers as the Service Dis-connecting Means because a 200 amp Feeder from the Service to the existing panel would require a 2" conduit and #000 Feeder Conductors-- "heavy stuff".

100 Feeders can be implaced with #2/3 Non-metallic cable .

One 100 amp Feeder may be sufficient for the existing load , but I advise that you make provisions for a 2nd 100 amp Feeder to be used for future expansion of the electrical system.
 
  #12  
Old 10-05-07, 07:37 AM
C
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 51
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Smile

PATTBAA...

I wish you could drive up from Port Chester to do the job!

Thanks for all of your help!
 
  #13  
Old 10-05-07, 09:09 AM
P
Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: port chester n y
Posts: 1,983
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Please inform us of any developments with electrical contractors , such as bids submitted , and what they propose to do for your $$$$$ and how they plan on doing it.

Good Luck, & Learn & Enjoy from the Experience!!!
 
  #14  
Old 10-08-07, 06:59 PM
C
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 51
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
I have had three bids so far, all to upgrade the fuses to the 200 amp service.

One bid for $2,600, one bid for $2,650 and one bid for $2,900. I am still going to get additional bids as I still do not feel confident in these prices. Do they sound about right?
 
  #15  
Old 10-08-07, 08:25 PM
L
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: North of Boston, MA.
Posts: 1,967
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Site unseen. Yes they sound fair.

Typicaly you take the Highest and the lowest, Throw them away.

The others, make sure your getting the same things.
Above all, You must feel comfortable with whom your dealing . Check with the town/state if in doubt.

Make a list and ask each the same questions.
Any deviations.. Make notes and continue. Apples to apples.

For the record CT. Is a tough state to do business in, so keep that in mind. Some pay/charge for aggrivation.
 
  #16  
Old 10-09-07, 10:46 AM
P
Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: port chester n y
Posts: 1,983
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
The "Service Entrance Conductors" for this job are the conductors between the utility "aerial" cable connection and the "Line" terminals of the 200 amp circuit-breaker which is located in an out-door enclosure.

Most probably this is in the from of an SEC that extends vertically from the Servive equiptments to the utilty connection -- not to complicated ( we hope !!).

The conductors that extend from the "Load" terminals of the exterior 200 amp CB to the new breaker panel are "Feeder Conductors", and the Wiring Method for routing the Feeder Conductors inside the house to the new panel must include an Equiptment Grounding Conductor, along with three conductors with an Ampacity of 200.

I advise you to ask the bidders what type of Wiring Method they propose to use for the 200 amp Feeder which is routed across the attic for an approx lenth of 50 ft.
If the Wiring Method is PVC conduit , the Feeder would consist of three #000 copper conductors and a #6 copper Equiptment Grounding Conductor.

The bids submitted seem to be very reasonable for a 200 amp Service that includes an 200 amp Feeder for a distance of 50 ft across the attic, in addition to the distance along the exterior of the house , so please determine exactly how the contractors plan on providing a 200 amp Feeder between the Service and the new interior panel.

You need to know the type of Wiring Method for the Feeder ,and the size of the Feeder Conductors enclosed by the Wiring Method. Also ,request that they refer you to the specific Code Article for the chosen W-M.

Ex: Art 358 --Electrical Tubing Art 352 -- Rigid Non-Metallic Conduit

Please reply after you have recieved this information- Thankks!!!!
 
  #17  
Old 11-11-07, 11:26 AM
C
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 51
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
One contractor has now suggested that a panel box of 200 amp should be mounted directly inside the house (in the finished basement) within a short distance of the outside meter. He then says to run 100 amp to the original panel box in the upstairs area of the house. He says this way you have 200 amp available in the future if anyone wanted to make use of it. I know this would save approximately $1000 because a dis-connect box would not be needed and new copper wire would not have to be run the approximately 50 feet....BUT IS THIS A GOOD IDEA???? PLEASE HELP ME MAKE MY DECISION!!!!!
 
  #18  
Old 11-11-07, 03:39 PM
D
Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Delray Beach, FL
Posts: 369
Upvotes: 0
Received 1 Upvote on 1 Post
Dear Grandma,
The electrician who told you that electricity will not operate properly in the attic scares me.
Electricity does not care what temperature it is operating in.
The considerations are derating for the conductors and the temperature allowance for the PVC conduit that may be run through the attic.
When conductors are placed in a high ambient temperature, they must be sized according to the National Electrical Code specifications.
It may also be that he does not want to work up in your attic.
I live in Florida, my service goes through the attic, and I have never experienced any problems because the electrons were slowed down because of the heat.
Cross #1 off your list and get quotes from electricians that know what they are talking about.
 
  #19  
Old 11-11-07, 03:41 PM
C
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 51
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
My question now is as follows...and this is VERY important as I must know the answer ASAP...

One contractor has now suggested that a panel box of 200 amp should be mounted directly inside the house (in the finished basement) within a short distance of the outside meter. He then says to run 100 amp to the original panel box in the upstairs area of the house. He says this way you have 200 amp available in the future if anyone wanted to make use of it. I know this would save approximately $1000 because a dis-connect box would not be needed and new copper wire would not have to be run the approximately 50 feet....BUT IS THIS A GOOD IDEA???? PLEASE HELP ME MAKE MY DECISION!!!!!
 
  #20  
Old 11-11-07, 04:54 PM
D
Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Delray Beach, FL
Posts: 369
Upvotes: 0
Received 1 Upvote on 1 Post
Depending on the size of your house and the requirements such as AC, appliances, etc. you may be just fine with a 100 amp service.
If you want to plan for the future, that is your decision to make.
I would hope that all the existing service equipment, riser and meter are being replaced as it makes no sense to do half the project.
If you have a fused panel, I am assuming that verything else is just as old.
 
  #21  
Old 11-11-07, 06:54 PM
J
Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: United States
Posts: 17,733
Upvotes: 0
Received 1 Upvote on 1 Post
This is a very strange thread.

Grandma, you started this thread by saying that you were having your service upgraded. However, I still don't know why you are having your service upgraded. The only rationale I picked out was, "the voltage is so low at this point that it's tough to even run a hair dryer." That doesn't even really make sense. Upgrading your service won't change the voltage.

To give you good advice on what you should do, we really need to understand what problem you are trying to solve.
 
  #22  
Old 11-12-07, 04:46 AM
C
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 51
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
At this point in time, we have fuses in our house. We will never be able to sell this house without the service upgrade. At this point in time, the ground lug in the meter box (a fact that Connecticut Light & Power has shown us) is entirely rotted out. There is very little left of the ground wire. Therefore, without the ground, we have constant brown-outs. A service upgrade would both replace the meter box AND get rid of the fuses so that our house would be up to code.

My question is: One contractor has now suggested that a panel box of 200 amp should be mounted directly inside the house (in the finished basement) within a short distance of the outside meter. He then says to run 100 amp to the original panel box in the upstairs area of the house. He says this way you have 200 amp available in the future if anyone wanted to make use of it. I know this would save approximately $1000 because a dis-connect box would not be needed and new copper wire would not have to be run the approximately 50 feet....BUT IS THIS A GOOD IDEA????
 
  #23  
Old 11-12-07, 08:27 AM
J
Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: United States
Posts: 17,733
Upvotes: 0
Received 1 Upvote on 1 Post
Okay, so you're not doing this because you need more power. Then the contractors suggestion is indeed a good idea. It will save you money.
 
  #24  
Old 11-12-07, 08:38 AM
C
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 51
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
I only ask because several contractors said not to do this as there would be two boxes inside your house instead of one. As far as I understand, though, if someone were to buy this house from us, they could then run service 200 service from the newly installed box if they wanted. I just want to make sure I am making the best choice for my money: to run the 200 amp right up front directly to the box I now have...or to have the two boxes - 200 amp running into the first box and then 100 amp running from that box to the original box. I want to make the correct choice and I need your expert advice, because once it is done...it's done. Is there any reason why I wouldn't want the two boxes other than the fact that you would have two "ugly" boxes instead of one?
 
  #25  
Old 11-12-07, 10:16 AM
T
Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 1,569
Received 74 Upvotes on 69 Posts
here is my thought

When I designed my new service, I noted where all the high current appliances were located. waterheater, A/C, electric heat, etc. I tried to place the panel reasonably close to the big users, to reduce long, large wire runs. Also, I wanted the meter on the side of the house where the utility pole was, since I was also going underground.

Sooo, since you may now have an increase of some 100amps of capacity, how might you use it? Where will the new hot tub go? or pool heater? or??? This might help answer the basement vs 1st story question.

Or, am I reading you want to sell the house, but the bad connector in the old meter pan is the big cultprit? If this is the case, ~$2500 sounds like a poor investment for the seller. How about replace the fuse box with a 100a load center and either fix or replace the meter pan? The buyer, if they need more amps, then can make the better decision, since they will have the reason for the amperage upgrade.
 
  #26  
Old 11-12-07, 10:44 AM
C
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 51
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
There will definitely be no air conditioners (either in the window or central), no hot tubs, or no pools installed by me now or in the future.

I have nothing that requires more than 100 amp service.

I just need to know if there is a reason NOT to have two boxes as described in my previous replies.
 
  #27  
Old 11-12-07, 04:58 PM
D
Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Delray Beach, FL
Posts: 369
Upvotes: 0
Received 1 Upvote on 1 Post
There is absolutely no reason not to have two loadcenters in your house.
This is a very common situation, especially in an older home.
 
  #28  
Old 11-12-07, 05:23 PM
Rollie73's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Bras D'Or, Nova Scotia ,Canada
Posts: 163
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
"There is absolutely no reason not to have two loadcenters in your house.
This is a very common situation, especially in an older home."


This can actually be a desirable situatiuon in that it can ,and most times, does reduce the need for long, large runs of wiring.

I have wired many homes and commerical establishments which have more than one distribution center.
 
  #29  
Old 11-13-07, 07:17 AM
H
Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: usa
Posts: 243
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
I'm assuming 230 volt single phase service to your house.

Grandma....If it were my house, I would let the contractor set the new 200A service in the basement.

The reason that it's cheaper to do it this way is because with the short distance between the meter base and the inside 200Amp main breaker, you usually don't require a outside disconnect.
Although this can vary by location, it's usually allowed if the distance is kept very short (where I live it's 10 feet or less).

From this new Main Breaker Panel, it's a fairly simple thing to install a 100 amp 4 wire feeder to your existing panel.

This is a very common installation in larger homes.

One thing to make sure of.....
Since your existing 100A panel is being converted from a Main panel to a Sub-Panel, the (100A) feeder cable to it must be 4 wire [(2) hot wires, (1) neutral wire and (1) ground wire).

It will also require that the neutrals and ground wires in the existing panel be seperated.
The branch circuit ground wires will be bonded to the panel (and the feeder ground wire).
The branch circuit neutral wires will be connected to a terminal bar that is connected to the feeder neutral and isolated from the panel and ground.

Your electrical contractor should know this.
If he doesn't, find another electrician.

Will this job be inspected?

Hope this helps.
steve
 
  #30  
Old 11-14-07, 09:35 AM
C
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 51
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Yes, this job WILL be inspected.
 
  #31  
Old 11-14-07, 01:17 PM
P
Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: port chester n y
Posts: 1,983
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
The question of routing new 100 amp conductors across the attic to the fuse-panel location suggests that the existing. conductors feeding the fuse-panel are 60 amp conductors.

Presuming that the total lineal feet from the utility connection to the main-lugs of the new breaker-panel is 80 ft which consists of --- 15 ft of 200 amp Service Conductors in a vertical direction between the utilty-connection and the meter-socket ---- 15 ft of 100 amp Feeder Conductors in a vertical direction from a 100 amp breaker to the attic level- -- a 50ft horizontal run across the attic to the panel location.---Because The 15 ft of 200 Service Conductors are the "easy" section of the over-all conductor installation, a 200 amp service is advisable.

An indoor Service panel , say a "Main + 20 " , offers the most "flexibilty" for connecting the existing load ,and for the connection of future loads. "For example"----

With the attic spanning the entire living area , the installation of a "split" central AC cooling system is feasible. If the compressor is located at the end of the house where the Service is located, it's only a run of a few feet from the panel to the compressor.

It's possible ,if some wall-damage is not an issue to "fish" a 100 map NM cable from basement to attic. And "while you'r at it " , you may consider fishing "drag-lines" to be used in the future for pulling future communication cables to the attic.

Where in CT are you located ?
 
  #32  
Old 11-14-07, 02:14 PM
C
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 51
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Please Reply Pattbaa!!!!!!!!!

I live in Wolcott, CT.

PATTBAA....did you read my posts about the electrician that wants to install the two boxes? If not, please read, and PLEASE make your suggestion. You have helped me before and I trust your suggestions!!!!
 
  #33  
Old 11-14-07, 02:17 PM
C
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 51
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Please Read My Post Of 11/12/07 concerning a 200 amp box directly inside the wall and then also keeping the original box with 100 amp breakers.
 
  #34  
Old 11-14-07, 02:30 PM
R
Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Central New York State
Posts: 13,245
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Grandma, You have received more than enough advice on this for you to have made your decision.
 
  #35  
Old 11-15-07, 04:50 AM
C
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 51
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
racraft,

Thanks! I'm glad you think I have enough advice.....

Is there a limit as to how many replies you can receive.........?????
 
  #36  
Old 11-15-07, 07:53 AM
ray2047's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 29,711
Upvotes: 0
Received 15 Upvotes on 13 Posts
No limit on replies if there are still unanswered questions. Why not post back with a list of questions you still need answered.
 
  #37  
Old 11-15-07, 10:15 AM
C
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 51
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
The reason that I wanted a variety of replies is because I have had several electricians come to my home, and each and every one of them has told me something different. I expect that from them as there is something in it for them...my business. Here on this board, no one is competing for my business, so the answers are meant to be helpful, not misleading in order to make an extra buck. I wanted to make a decision based on the popular majority of electricians that are so willing and wanting to help.

Thank you to the many people who were FRIENDLY and wanted to help.
 
  #38  
Old 11-15-07, 03:34 PM
ray2047's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 29,711
Upvotes: 0
Received 15 Upvotes on 13 Posts
Sometimes there isn't a single best way to do a job.

P.S. (Good God! No air conditioning? Is it really that cold in the summer in Connecticut? Thought it was next door to New York and it gets hot there.)
 
  #39  
Old 11-16-07, 09:13 AM
P
Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: port chester n y
Posts: 1,983
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
CTGM;

In Post #1 you implied that it was necessary to route new conductors across the attic to an existing fuse panel.
This suggests that the existing "Feeder" is less than 100 amps ; otherwise why the need for a new Feeder ? An existing 100 amp Feeder should be left intact.

IF---IF-- the existing Feeder IS 100 amps, AND IF the 100 amp Feeder is not adequate for the existing loads ( vey un-likely), then a 2nd 100 amp Feeder is necessary.

In Post #32 you state-- "elec want's to install two boxes"----- best to refer to the "boxes" as "enclosures".
For residential work there are basically four types of "enclosures" ---- (1) , an outdoor meter-socket----
(2), an enclosure for a single 2-pole circuit-breaker, either indoor or out-door: for your purpose , either 200 or 100 amps. ---- (3) , a panel with a "Main" breaker + X-number of positions for the insertion of circuit-breakers---
(4), a panel with X-number of positions for the insertion of circuit-breakers,, but not equipped with a "Main" breaker.

In Post #33 you state---- "original box with 100 amp breakers"----- this implies an enclosure that contains "100 amp breakers " inside. As best I know, the existing "enclosure" is a fuse-panel which MAY be connected to an existing 100 amp Feeder which is protected by a 100 amp breaker at the Service.
 
  #40  
Old 11-16-07, 07:23 PM
mukansamonkey's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 114
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by PATTBAA
In Post #1 you implied that it was necessary to route new conductors across the attic to an existing fuse panel.
This suggests that the existing "Feeder" is less than 100 amps ; otherwise why the need for a new Feeder ? An existing 100 amp Feeder should be left intact.
IF---IF-- the existing Feeder IS 100 amps, AND IF the 100 amp Feeder is not adequate for the existing loads ( vey un-likely), then a 2nd 100 amp Feeder is necessary.
My understanding is that Grandma needs to replace the existing 100 amp fuse panel and potentially upgrade the service at the same time. A couple people (myself included) are recommending putting a new 200A service panel near the service drop and running 100A feeders to a new 100A subpanel that replaces the existing fuse panel with breakers. This saves money by avoiding a new disconnect and leaving the existing branch circuit wires in place at the current panel, while doubling the available capacity (in case she does get a hankering for a hot tub). Chances are the existing feeders would have to be replaced, especially given that it sounds like the wires are in bad shape. Adding the 200A box isn't necessary, but it wouldn't be a lot more money to bring the capacity up to typical new home levels.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: