Garage heat


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Old 10-19-07, 04:51 AM
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Garage heat

I have a small studio/converted garage about 9x16. It is attached and the old garage doors replaced with a good quality french door which takes up most of the 9' end - so I really only have two remaining uninsulated outside walls. I would like to be able to go out there during the winter but don't need it to be 70 degrees. I would be happy keeping it at 50 degrees and once in a while turning it up if I want to use it. I was thinking of installing a FaranheaT 240VOLT, 13,656BTU fan forced wall heater on the interior wall. Winters are not terrible on Long Island -generally does not get below 10 on the worst days. I have 2 small windows that I would install storms and or plastic on the inside. Rafters are not insulated but I have a loft built which covers 2/3s of the ceiling and plan to put the heater in the wall under this loft which it seems would keep most of the heat where I want it. The ceiling is about 8' off the floor. There is another 7' from loft floor to roof peak. I really do not want to insulate and sheetrock this space.

Would running this unit cost me an arm and a leg? Thanks in advance...........tom
 
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Old 10-19-07, 07:57 AM
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Tom: not insulating the outside walls and figuring out a way to cover the remaining ceiling, you will create a chimney for your heat to rush up and out, keeping very little for your use. You would want to install your storms or plastic on the "outside", not the inside to keep condensation out of the living space. So, presently, yes, it will cost alot to operate.
 
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Old 10-19-07, 04:55 PM
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So, are you saying it would help alot to put a "temporary ceiling" level with the loft ?

I would use the raftmates with soffit and ridge vent eventually to create a cathedral - I just do not have the time this year........ There would not be a chimney effect with that, would there? or will all my heat race up to the upper loft no matter?
 
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Old 10-19-07, 05:44 PM
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Any level above the one you will be occupying will gain the most heat, due to the chimney effect. Until you get ready to finish the upper level, maybe you could enclose the exposed ceiling, making it continuous at the same level of your studio, in order to retain the most heat. Then, next year, you could pull it down and finish upstairs properly with good insulation. Just an idea.
 
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Old 10-19-07, 06:24 PM
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Larry,
Would a ceiling fan on the upper level be enough to blow the heat back down? Perhaps I could hang it on the sloped ceiling on the 1/3 section that is open to the loft to blow it down before it reaches the upper level entirely. This would be much easier than building a ceiling that I would just need to take down. Thoughts?
 
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Old 10-20-07, 04:14 AM
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Absolutely! Good idea, as long as you have the angular space to put it in. You already mention it, so just make sure the blades will clear the angle of the roofline, and run it on slow speed, it will definitely get you through the winter, or until you can get to the final remodel. I would probably even leave one up there after you finish it, just to keep air circulating.
 
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Old 10-20-07, 06:28 AM
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Thanks Larry - that is what I will do. I wonder if this ceiling fan will be more critical than having insulation on the two outside walls for keeping the space heated. Seems like it to me..........

too bad there is not a product that you can cut and shove between studs. The whole fiberglass and then sheetrock thing is alot of work.
 
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Old 10-20-07, 09:03 AM
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Have you considered alternatives to electric heat? Yes, with kerosene or propane (or natural gas) you must have adequate ventilation and should have a carbon monoxide detector but depending on electric prices in your area may cost a lot less. (Local codes permitting of course.)
 
 

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