Help with a Magnetic Starter for air compressor


  #41  
Old 11-20-07, 01:38 PM
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Yes, that is similiar to what you will need.

Yes, that is probably what it looked like originally.
 
  #42  
Old 11-20-07, 03:39 PM
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Ok fellas, pulled the unit off and the contactor removed. I don't see any markings anywhere on the coil. Maybe you guys can tell the difference visually if it is a 120V or 240V coil? I took a picture of the end view, as it appears some of the coating has melted off. The other side's coating is in good shape, just the side that i took a picture of is a bit rough. Typical of a 2-3 year old starter/coil?





 
  #43  
Old 11-20-07, 04:03 PM
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ok now i can see the whole story with the coil humm that unseal for being unmarked for votlage anyway do you know how to read in " OHM " scale ?? if so you can read it this way you can tell if coil is good or not.

I have a hunch on the thrid photo you provide to us that the coil is allready shot due overvoltage kill it.

let us know what you find the reading on that.

kinda common with alot of contractors if ran wrong voltage and burn up the coil.

Merci, marc
 
  #44  
Old 11-20-07, 04:10 PM
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well, whatever voltage it was, it looks like it might be toast now. I would suggest it was a 120 volt coil and somebody hooked it up to 240.


Marc, I did not suggest a control transformerbecause OP was having enough problems as it was without tossing that in. It is just as easy to pull a 120 line to the starter to run the controls.

Since it looks like he needs a new coil, the 120 is no longer needed anyway.


Since it looks like the starter coil may be toast, I would go and get a 240 volt coil and your drawing, it will work as if if you have a 24o volt coil.

as fubar said, it bypasses the oil level cut out but he may bne right as to why.
 
  #45  
Old 11-20-07, 04:15 PM
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Using a voltmeter set on the 2000k setting, i'm getting a variable reading that bounces around the 400 mark when the probes are placed across each terminal on the coil. Since i'm getting a reading, i assume the coil is good? Can you tell if it is a 240V coil?
 
  #46  
Old 11-20-07, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by nap View Post
well, whatever voltage it was, it looks like it might be toast now. I would suggest it was a 120 volt coil and somebody hooked it up to 240.


Marc, I did not suggest a control transformerbecause OP was having enough problems as it was without tossing that in. It is just as easy to pull a 120 line to the starter to run the controls.

Since it looks like he needs a new coil, the 120 is no longer needed anyway.


Since it looks like the starter coil may be toast, I would go and get a 240 volt coil and your drawing, it will work as if if you have a 24o volt coil.

as fubar said, it bypasses the oil level cut out but he may bne right as to why.

I agree with ya Nap i belive it did happend as soon the 240v power kicked on and nuked the coil fast.

TO the OP just get the 240 v coil just make sure you follow the model number on front of the AB contractor and ask for 240 volt coil.

note that the coil is not a big box store item at all you will end up go to the electrical supply centre to get this.

{ you may have to check one or two places not all electrical supply centre will stock this item.}

Merci, Marc


Nap just let you know my option for contractor i used both Sqd or GE contractors both are very easy to get in the coil and concats really fast [ most are toolless just pull two or four clips bingo ya got there in about 20 second or so as long the power is off ]
 
  #47  
Old 11-20-07, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by jbuening View Post
Using a voltmeter set on the 2000k setting, i'm getting a variable reading that bounces around the 400 mark when the probes are placed across each terminal on the coil. Since i'm getting a reading, i assume the coil is good? Can you tell if it is a 240V coil?
tell the diffrence on the coil ?? not really but really it will be wise just get new coil and be done with it because the photo you show to us that is a surefire sign that coil is burnted out.

Merci , Marc
 
  #48  
Old 11-20-07, 04:45 PM
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Ok, even though there is resistance through the terminals the coil is shot? A new coil is on my to do list!

What is a "ballpark" estimate on what a 240V coil would run? Just so i know to hide from my wife for a few days

Thanks for the help guys, i really appreciate it. This whole 120V coil thing really through me through a loop. Clear as mud now, at least as clear as it will get with me

FYI, the number on the contactor says 400-DP50ND3 and based on a google search, the 400-DP50NA3 is the 240V contactor part number for Allen-Bradley units.

Ebay is amazing
 
  #49  
Old 11-21-07, 02:34 PM
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Just looked on the inside of the box cover and found the following numbers: 8911DPSG42V09 Type 1 Enclosure

Based on my google search, the DPSG42 is a 40A 7.5hp @ 240V three pole starter. The "V09" indicates that the coil is a 208-240V @ 50Hz or 220V @ 60hz.

My link: http://ecatalog.squared.com/catalog/...f/17314085.pdf


How can i tell what type of contactor that should have came with this enclosure?? i.e. type/class number? Or is there a way?

I'm thinking the class is 8911, but not positive. Trying to figure out what i'd be looking for when getting the right Square D contactor/coil assembly.
 
 

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