Is there a trick to mounting faceplates flush?

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Old 01-10-08, 10:54 AM
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Is there a trick to mounting faceplates flush?

Hiya -

I've noticed recently that several of my faceplates are not entirely flush with the wallboard. I tried removing the faceplate, reseating the switches/recepticles, and reinstalling but there is still quite a bit of gap between the wall and the faceplate (3/16 in in one case).

I'd love a cleaner look, with faceplates mounted flush and even with the wall, but I can't figure out the best way to do this. Any pros have some tips??

Thanks in advance.
 
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Old 01-10-08, 10:59 AM
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The boxes have to be mounted properly or the face plates will not fit properly. Are the boxes set too deep in the wall or are they protruding from the wall? Or is this a gap around the box?
 
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Old 01-11-08, 01:37 PM
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Thanks for the reply -

I'm not really sure what "too deep" might mean. I would say the boxes are roughly flush with the outside face of the drywall, maybe inset about 1/8 - 1/4 inch depending on which box.

How deep should they be mounted? Would I have to remount the boxes to fix this problem? Ugh that would be a lot of work...
 
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Old 01-11-08, 01:52 PM
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faceplates

the outer tabs on the receptacles may be holding it out from the box.

and

An old electrician told me " dont tighten the receptacles all the way down, then when you put the faceplate on it will pull everything tight". I've found that with the cheap plastic faceplates that will lead to broken/cracked faceplates. Metal or re-inforced plates, it seems to work.

The house I'm in now has extreme texture on the walls. I loosened the receptacles slightly, put the draft blocker gasket on, then put the faceplates (stainless steel) on. Seems to work great, all the plates are nice and flush.
 
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Old 01-11-08, 02:45 PM
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With extreme care..........

Remove the faceplates, and at the top and bottom of the receptacle "Yokes", you will see two "Perforated Lines". carefully bend them forward, and this will allow the receptacle to sit a bit deeper, and the faceplate moves closer to the wall. The opposite scenario, you would bend the tabs back, allowing the recept to move forward and faceplate to move out from the wall.
Some "Finagling" may be necessary top and bottom to get them "Level and "Flush".
 
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Old 01-12-08, 12:21 PM
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Good replies - thanks for the help.

I'm wondering, can I break off the "perforated" tabs on the recepticle/switches in order to better seat it? Or is that a no-no?

Thanks
 
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Old 01-12-08, 12:44 PM
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Absolutely, they are perforated for a reason after all.
 
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Old 01-12-08, 12:57 PM
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Yes , you can break them off---

But, that may pull the receptacle too far into the box, and youll end up with "COUNTERSUNK" receptacles.

In commercial applications, the tabs are purposely broken off, the recepts are mounted to the box cover and Installed as a unit.

After you break them off, slip one behind the screwhole on the plate. It stops the screw from "Stress cracking " the plate
 
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