200 amp Quick Disconnect?
#1
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200 amp Quick Disconnect?
Ok, In the proses of back porch remod.....Box and wiring is a MESS!! Almost to that point of box location, etc. ,etc...
My plan is to install 200 amp disc. off the meter base. Run service in to new 40/40 box. Was advised to buy lug load center box, wouldn't need the 200 amp main with the discon.
Ok, But.............Have done some checking around...local lumberyard,lowes,vally elec. service to mention a few. 200 amp main lug box will be special order and just as expensive as 40/40 with main breaker included.
So my question is, would there be any problem with having 200 amp breaker @ discon. & 200 amp main breaker at the box?
Sorry if this has been asked before.......Thanks
My plan is to install 200 amp disc. off the meter base. Run service in to new 40/40 box. Was advised to buy lug load center box, wouldn't need the 200 amp main with the discon.
Ok, But.............Have done some checking around...local lumberyard,lowes,vally elec. service to mention a few. 200 amp main lug box will be special order and just as expensive as 40/40 with main breaker included.
So my question is, would there be any problem with having 200 amp breaker @ discon. & 200 amp main breaker at the box?
Sorry if this has been asked before.......Thanks
#2
After leaving the meter, how far do the wires need to run inside the house to get to the new 40/40 panel? Code allows for a short distance, usually about 5 feet. If the distance is longer than 5', then you must install an external disconnect.
If you need (or want) a disconnect at the meter, I would recommend a meter/main combo box like this one:
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...200&lpage=none
Be sure to check with your power company before buying to make sure your box is compatible with their meter style. Note that the panel in the house then becomes a subpanel which requires four wire feed and isolated grounds and neutrals.
You are allowed to have both an external disconnect breaker and a main breaker inside at the panel, but only one or the other is required.
If you need (or want) a disconnect at the meter, I would recommend a meter/main combo box like this one:
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...200&lpage=none
Be sure to check with your power company before buying to make sure your box is compatible with their meter style. Note that the panel in the house then becomes a subpanel which requires four wire feed and isolated grounds and neutrals.
You are allowed to have both an external disconnect breaker and a main breaker inside at the panel, but only one or the other is required.
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Yea, original plan was to locate box on interior wall with meter base on outer....with diff. location in mind,will be appx. 15' from meter base. So with the added dist. you would recomend disc. at meter base? I understand this would protect service line.....any prob. with additional main breaker at the box? Thanks
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Did I read this right? Does the NEC 2008 version require separate ground and neutrals in teh main disconnect panel?
What would be the advantage of removing the bonding strap and installing the ground on one side of the bar out to 2 ground rods andthe oher side keep all the neutrals connected to the incoming neutral?
Follow my logic:
1) 3 wire (H/H/N) from pole to meter and 3 wire to disconnect (main panel)
2) Meter and mast is not grounded
3) ground is separate from neutral in panel. Panel is grounded.
4) ground bar is connected to 2 rods with bare #6 cu.
5) neutral bar is connected to incoming service neutral
If the mast is hit by lightning wouldn't the bare neutral be energized all the way to my panel and out to my recepticles and lights?
What would be the advantage of removing the bonding strap and installing the ground on one side of the bar out to 2 ground rods andthe oher side keep all the neutrals connected to the incoming neutral?
Follow my logic:
1) 3 wire (H/H/N) from pole to meter and 3 wire to disconnect (main panel)
2) Meter and mast is not grounded
3) ground is separate from neutral in panel. Panel is grounded.
4) ground bar is connected to 2 rods with bare #6 cu.
5) neutral bar is connected to incoming service neutral
If the mast is hit by lightning wouldn't the bare neutral be energized all the way to my panel and out to my recepticles and lights?
#6
If that 15' of wire runs through the house, then an external disconnect is required. If the 15' of wire runs along the outside of the house, a disconnect is not required.
#7
This means that the inside panel must be configured as a subpanel with separate ground and neutral conductors and bus bars.
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Shew!!
OK, so for those of us that have a panel in the house with disconnect SHOULD have the neutrals and grounds bonded together. This would answer my question of a lightning strike.
Any sub-panels subsequently installed requires a 4 wire with ground and neutral separate at the sub panel. The ground wire comes back to the main panel and grounded the rods.
I must have read it wrong regarding the changes to the NEC 2008.
OK, so for those of us that have a panel in the house with disconnect SHOULD have the neutrals and grounds bonded together. This would answer my question of a lightning strike.
Any sub-panels subsequently installed requires a 4 wire with ground and neutral separate at the sub panel. The ground wire comes back to the main panel and grounded the rods.
I must have read it wrong regarding the changes to the NEC 2008.