Intermatic T103 Timer Wiring

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Old 03-14-08, 10:19 AM
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Intermatic T103 Timer Wiring

I had bought a timer on Ebay and had a handyman install it on my outdoor sign at my office. The sign turns on and off manually but the timer does not run. I removed the breaker panel and ther are 3 wires going to the timer. One is the ground and the 2nd is from the breaker to the #1 Line post in the timer and the 3rd is from the #2 Load post out to the sign. Shouldn't there be another wire to complete the circuit for the timer? If there should be, wher would it be picked up from? The ground bar in the breaker box?
Thanks in advance,
Bill.
 
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Old 03-14-08, 11:49 AM
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Is the sign 120 volts? Is the timer 2pole? If so only one half of the timer would be used. The hot to line1, the sign to load 1. Neutrals to the neutral connection on the timer.

If the sign is 240v then both poles would be used. Is the clock motor 120V? If so you may not have a neutral for the clock motor if the sign is 240V. If the sign is a 120v and the motor is 240V then you won't have power for the clock motor.
 
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Old 03-14-08, 12:27 PM
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The sign is 120V. The timer is a DPST(double pole single throw). The clock motor is 110-125V. I do not see any neutrals(?). The timer has 5 terminals plus the ground which is seperate. The timer is connected with one wire to terminal A and the other wire to terminal 1 LINE. The hot wire from the panel is connected to terminal 1 LINE and the wire going to the sign is connected to terminal 2 LOAD. The other 2 terminals 3 LINE and 4 LOAD have nothing connected to them. What's missing?
 
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Old 03-14-08, 01:53 PM
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I'm no expert, but it sounds like a neutral needs to be connected to the timer motor.

Is there a neutral that runs to the timer, then continues to the sign?

As you have probably figured out, hiring a "handyman" to do electrical work is not the best idea. They are not licensed to do this work either.
 
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Old 03-14-08, 02:52 PM
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There are not any other wires going to the timer. So, no, there is not a neutral to the timer.
 
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Old 03-14-08, 03:21 PM
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So, there is only a hot and ground wire running to the timer, then running to the sign?

I wonder if the neutral runs directly to the sign. If so, the timer wouldn't work.
 
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Old 03-14-08, 06:26 PM
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There has to be a neutral on the timer if the clock motor is 120v. It will be a silver screw. Edit:
...double-pole, single-throw switch is designed for industrial, commercial and residential applications. Highest HP ratings in the industry for loads up to 40 amps, providing direct 24 hr. control of most loads. Provides 1 to 12 “ON/OFF” operations each day with minimum ON/OFF times of 1 hour. Equipped with one “ON” and one “OFF” tripper. Has a clock motor volts of 125 volts, 60 Hz ....
Based on web search it is 120v motor.
 
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Old 03-14-08, 07:42 PM
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Source:http://www.thestuccocompany.com/main...or-165280-.htm
Install the green on the ground screw. Install both whites on the screw
marked "A". The confusing part is where the second leg of the clock motor is
attached. It appears that it could be "1" or "3". Let's assume it's on "1".
Put the red from the fuse box on "1" and the red from the fountain on "2".
That should do it. In the event that the clock doesn't turn, (you will be
able to tell as it has a visual peep hole to see the gears spinning), change
your red from fuse box to "3" and red from fountain to "4"
 
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Old 03-14-08, 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Strategery View Post
So, there is only a hot and ground wire running to the timer, then running to the sign?

I wonder if the neutral runs directly to the sign. If so, the timer wouldn't work.
Yep, that's all there is and the neutral must be going directly to the box. I took a jumper wire and touched the green ground wire and the terminal for the clock motor and the clock motor worked. I then open the breker panel and connected a wire to the ground bus and ran it to the clock motor terminal and it is working now. Did I do the correct thing or am I creating a problem?
 
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Old 03-14-08, 09:05 PM
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then open the breker panel and connected a wire to the ground bus and ran it to the clock motor terminal and it is working now. Did I do the correct thing or am I creating a problem?
If this is the main panel then you probably actually came from the neutral bar and that is OK as long as you used a white wire. If this is a subpanel you need to move it to the neutral bar.
 
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Old 03-14-08, 09:10 PM
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It is the main panel.
 
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Old 03-15-08, 08:45 AM
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Link to instructions from Intermatic:
http://www.intermatic.com/images/ins...8ts10946-1.pdf
Pretty lousy instruction drawing IMO.
Looks to me like the following but I'm not positive, I'd call them, Ray2047's instructions are the same as mine:
1. A neutral (white) from panel's neutral bus bar goes to Term A and pig-tailed to neutral to load's white
2. hot (black) from panel's circuit breaker goes to Term 1
3. Black to load connected to Term 2 or 4
4. Ground to G terminal and to sign's ground and to ground bus bar in panel.
WHy not call the company and ask them to explain their crappy diagram?
* Hours of operation: Monday - Friday 8:00 AM - 4:30 PM (Central time)
* 815-675-7000
Good luck!
 
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Old 03-15-08, 01:24 PM
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The installer never ran the neutral to the sign into the timer. He just connected everything without ever bringing the neutral in. I connected a white wire to the ground bar in the panel and connected it to terminal A which is where the neutral wire for the clock is also connected. It is working as it should be! Thanks for all of the great advice. Without it I would not have been able to correct the issue.
Thanks again,
Bill,
 
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Old 03-15-08, 04:30 PM
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This is probably a stupid question, but I'm a bit concerned...

Is the timer mounted to or near the panel? If so, it's probably ok.

Otherwise, I'm worried about how these wires were ran and if they are properly protected.
 
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Old 03-15-08, 10:49 PM
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Just re-read what you wrote. If there was a neutral to the sign it should have been pigtailed to the clock motor. A new wire shouldn't have been run. May be OK. The pros will have to weigh in on that.
 
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