Grounding a wall switch
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: usa
Posts: 97
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Grounding a wall switch
I am in the process of finishing a basement and am re-doing some of the original wall switches for lighting. I am seeing that the wall switches are not grounded. Is that typical? Or not up to code? They're standard 15A switches. I've seen both 2-way and 3-way. There is a ground screw on the switches, however, it's not being used. The in and out ground wires are twisted together.
Thanks,
Mike
Thanks,
Mike
#2
If the grounding wires are in the box, just untwist about 60% of the twist, cut off one of the bare wires, and install the remaining bare wire on the green screw. Some localities will require a green Bcap over the connection, and others may require a squeeze connector, so check on this, too. At least you have the wires. Sometimes we go in and some numbnut has cut the grounding conductor back to the sheathing. Real PITA
#3
Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: orange county
Posts: 268
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
If there is no ground wire in the switch box don't worry about it. Switches, to my limited knowledge, were ,"I believe" never required to be grounded. I did hear something about it becoming a new NEC requirement though. That would be new installations. If the box is made of metal, you can always check with a voltmeter to see if your box "may be grounded" (hopefully to the main main panel or within 5 feet of it). If the "box" is properly grounded then of course you can bond the box to the screw with a small ground wire. Then wallaa your switch is grounded. Wonder if they make switches with self grounding clips?
#4
Without opening my code book, the way the rule reads is they are not required to be grounded if there is not a means to do so. (Old wiring, someone modified it, etc.) However if the faceplate is metal they are required to be grounded in several cases.
Ok maybe I will look it up after all. If I get a chance I'll post back shortly.
Ok maybe I will look it up after all. If I get a chance I'll post back shortly.
#5
404.9(B) - Switches are required to be grounded
Exception #1 to (B): For replacement purposes only, they do not need to be grounded when no grounding means exists. If the faceplate is metal AND located within reach of grounded conductive surfaces then the switch must be grounded regardless.
[All paraphrased obviously]
Anyway for the OP's question this is all moot since a grounding means does exist.
Exception #1 to (B): For replacement purposes only, they do not need to be grounded when no grounding means exists. If the faceplate is metal AND located within reach of grounded conductive surfaces then the switch must be grounded regardless.
[All paraphrased obviously]
Anyway for the OP's question this is all moot since a grounding means does exist.
#6
If the OP have plastic box they have to run the ground wire to the switch yoke [ a metal strap with green screw]
If metal box .,, it have to run the ground wire to the screw and pigtailed a ground wire to the switch yoke.
you can not run the metal box ungrounded at all
it is very specifed in the NEC 404.9(B) and i think there is one more i think it is in 220 or 250 [ i will verify it later ]
Merci,Marc
If metal box .,, it have to run the ground wire to the screw and pigtailed a ground wire to the switch yoke.
you can not run the metal box ungrounded at all
it is very specifed in the NEC 404.9(B) and i think there is one more i think it is in 220 or 250 [ i will verify it later ]
Merci,Marc
#7
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: usa
Posts: 97
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the posts. To clarify, the box and plate are both plastic. Since the ground wires are there AND there is a green screw on the switches, I will make the proper connections. I usually ground everything....I was just surprised to see that it originally wasn't.
Thanks......Mike
Thanks......Mike
#8
Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: (near) Boise, ID
Posts: 415
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
I believe this is a common problem that home inspectors find (the ones you higher before buying a house).
From a practical point of view, there is probably little risk from having an ungrounded switch. You could potentially be shocked if there was a fault that energized the metal on the switch, which would then energize the screws on the cover plate. You would then have to touch the screws (which are painted and offer some insulation) while also touching something that is grounded.
From a practical point of view, there is probably little risk from having an ungrounded switch. You could potentially be shocked if there was a fault that energized the metal on the switch, which would then energize the screws on the cover plate. You would then have to touch the screws (which are painted and offer some insulation) while also touching something that is grounded.