Beginner Question - Residental Switch


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Old 03-31-08, 11:33 AM
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Beginner Question - Residental Switch

Hello, thanks for taking a look.

I'm replacing out an overhead pull-chain light for a recessed light controlled by a switch. The light is powered through a the middle of a circuit connection with the power supply at the load. The power circuit is 12/2.

I have a few questions:

It is okay if I use 14/2 to run the power to the switch, even though the circuit is using 12/2?

Currently, there isn't enough length on the current circuit lines to run to the new light. It is safe to splice additional 12/2 wiring to each end to extend the circuit before connecting them together and then to the light?

Thanks in advance!
 
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Old 03-31-08, 11:50 AM
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It is not OK to use 14/2 on a 20 amp circuit. 12/2 indicates 20 amp circuit
Adding any required cable to extend the circuit is fine. All connections must be in junction boxes. You must have at least 6 inches of wire inside the junction box.
 
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Old 03-31-08, 12:09 PM
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Thanks for your help - it looks like the 12/2 is running to a 15 amp breaker - my guess is that i need to change the breaker to 20 amp?

also, do the junction boxes need to be mounted to anything?
 
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Old 03-31-08, 12:15 PM
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the only time you can bump up from 15 to 20 amp breaker if you verifed that all that circuit you want to upgrade it have to be #12 all the way thru no #14's there then you can bump up to 20 amp breaker but if you find some 14's there then you can not upsized the breaker.

just think as a weak link in the chain.

Merci,Marc
 
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Old 03-31-08, 01:59 PM
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it looks like the 12/2 is running to a 15 amp breaker - my guess is that i need to change the breaker to 20 amp?
Not necessarily .....The breaker is sized to protect the wiring.
The situation you want, would be the breaker to trip before the wire overheats. You may use a 15 amp breaker on 20 amp wire, but not the other way around.
I would plan on leaving the 15 amp breaker where it is, Based on the slightest chance there is a piece of 14/2 somewhere on the circuit. Better safe than sorry.

Although it is poor practice, and frowned upon by the trade, because of future confusion, If the 15 amp breaker stays, you could technically use the 14/2 wg as a switch loop.

Are these recessed lights " New construction" or "Remodel"?
The remodel style cans will have a Junction box built into the "TAIL", Which will buy you 6 to 8 inches of length for the existing wires. Junction boxes must be secured level with the wall or cieling surface and must be kept "Permanently accessible" ---You cant bury them under finishing materials. Since the built in box on the remodel style can is accessible by removing the can itself, this would be Acceptable. A permanently mounted "New construction can" is not removable, so your splices would need to be made in a seperate Accessible junction.
 
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Old 03-31-08, 02:11 PM
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thanks for your help - all of you...

these are remodel cans, but i need to extend the existing power supply wiring on both ends in order to have enough to wire them together and then to the can.

so it sounds like i'll have 3 junction boxes. 1 at each end where i spliced the extensions and 1 at the light itself. does this sound right?
 
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Old 03-31-08, 02:24 PM
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Ok, you lost me.

You have one existing light. You are exchanging this fixture for a recessed can? Or Multiple recessed cans?.

Is this by chance accessible from an attic? Unless Im thinking wrong .(Which is possible , because you are looking at it and I'm Not), You would only need to extend One side of the wire, and run to the Cans J-BOX. If this is accessible from an Atic or Crawlspace, You could simply turn the existing fixture box upside down, and cover it with a Blank.
 
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Old 03-31-08, 03:21 PM
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sorry

i have an existing fixture i'm removing. i'm installing 1 can about a foot away from the existing fixture and want to use the wires that are currently powering the existing fixture.

they are accessible from my attic, but the crawlspace is really tight and the wires are stapled down (well), thus making them too short to move that extra foot.

also, it is too difficult to reuse the existing fixture box due to its size and position...
 
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Old 04-01-08, 05:00 PM
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i'm installing 1 can about a foot away from the existing fixture
Gotcha....

Easiest shot, ...I know you say the crawlspace it tight, But if you can get to the existing fixture box, Un-Nail it, and flip it over...You can use this for your splices. No extra J-boxes, and since you have to patch the ceiling anyway, No extra holes.

It seems like alot of hassle for nothing, but consider those two ugly blank covers sitting on the ceiling.
 
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Old 04-07-08, 07:10 AM
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Smile

thanks for your help - i managed to remove the old junction box from the attic and replaced it with 2 new boxes to house each splice. they aren't visible from the laundry room since i patched the drywall where the old light used to be, but they are accessible from the attic. with that, i think i've got it up to code...
 
 

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