Help wiring 2hp electric motor.

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Old 04-22-08, 03:51 PM
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Help wiring 2hp electric motor.

Hey guys and gals, say I have a 2hp motor that I bought new that needs to have a plug wired to it, right now all I have is a bunch of wires sticking out of a box.

OK so, here is the motor: http://www.baldor.com/products/detai...g=40CMB%2DCONT

On top of the box with wires is a diagram one marked High Voltage and one marked Low Voltage. As I need it to be wired for 115v I'm assuming you will want a description of the Low Voltage diagram: Left side are 3 dots connected by lines running vertically, from bottom to top 1,3,8. In the middle on top is dot number 2 which is connected to wire J directly to the right of 2, J is then connected to wire 5 directly below J, these three numbers make up a right angle in the top right corner. Last number is 4 in the very middle on the bottom.

I believe my motor is reversible and it would be nice if it had an on/off switch but honestly if it would just plug in and go that would be fine. So do you all think you can tell me how to wire it myself?

By the way I live not far from an electrical supply house so I can get whatever parts needed.

Thanks for any help and sorry for the long post,
Jason.
 
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Old 04-22-08, 04:53 PM
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Jason did you want this motor to hook up at 120 volts ??

if so here is the list i will type it down
but first i will run by the colours/ numbers first then next step is connecton


1] bleu
2] white
3] orange
J] brown
4] yellow
8] red
5] black

normally they are useally numbered leads but however if you have colour lead they will match up as i listed above.

to hook up on 120 volts
_________________________________
L1 [ Line or hot lead ]

1,3,8
____________________________________
L2 [ on 120 v useage it will be netural ]

4
________________________
join together 2,J,5 { use proper wirenut for this one ]
_____________________________
that list above is standard rotation to reverse rotation swap #5 and #8 that will run it in reverse.

if you want this on 240 volts let me know i will put up second chart for this

Merci,Marc
 
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Old 04-22-08, 05:11 PM
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french thanks, that seems straight forward.

Just for my own clarity, I will buy a cord(I guess the guys at the shop will know what I need?) This cord will have a positive and negative like vehicle jumper cables? If so, your saying that L1 would be positive and L2 will be negative?

About the plug itself, how do I know where to connect L1 and L2?

Edited to add: First off yes it will be 120 volts, a standard three prong plug in a US house. So does this not mean there will be a "hot", "neutral", and a ground? If so where does the ground go?
 
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Old 04-22-08, 05:21 PM
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if you want this motor to be run on 120 volt circuit you may run into some issue with current it will draw 28 amp per motor nameplate spec and i really encoruge you think about this and you should reconnected this to 240 volts and have it own 240 volt circuit as well do you have 240 volt circuit you have in the garage or other area ??


the reason why i suggest that because the size of motor it will be better off run on 240 volts instead of 120v and it can use sligtly smaller wire than 120 v verison can take.

let me know more details before you go on more.

Merci,Marc
 
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Old 04-22-08, 05:32 PM
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Unfortunately the only 240 plug I have access to has a laundry dryer hooked up to it
 
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Old 04-22-08, 08:38 PM
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You cannot use a normal 120V convenience outlet for that motor at all. You will need to install an outlet for it anyways.

You likely cannot and should not use your dryer receptical, especially if it is one of the older 3 prong ones.
 
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Old 04-22-08, 11:37 PM
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This cord will have a positive and negative like vehicle jumper cables? If so, your saying that L1 would be positive and L2 will be negative?
No. It is an AC motor not a DC motor. Wired for 120v you have a neutral and hot. Wired for 240v you have two hot leads and no neutral. The terms negative and positive refer to DC voltage. In AC the polarity actually reverses 60 time per second so polarity is meaningless.
 
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Old 04-23-08, 05:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Jason Anderson View Post
Unfortunately the only 240 plug I have access to has a laundry dryer hooked up to it
You can plug this into a regular 120v 15 amp receptacle. It will trip. You need a 30 amp receptacle for this motor.
 
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Old 04-23-08, 09:02 AM
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So my only option is to install a 240 plug

This would entail me putting a new fuse in the fuse box and and running a line to where ever I wanted the plug?
 
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Old 04-23-08, 09:08 AM
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Just thought, right on the motor it says 115/220 volts thats why I bought the darn thing in the first place. I thought it could be wired for either.
 
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Old 04-23-08, 09:28 AM
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It CAN be wired for either, it is just that when wired for 120 (115) volts it will draw 28 amperes at full load.

What is the application for which you wish to use this motor?
 
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Old 04-23-08, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Jason Anderson View Post
Just thought, right on the motor it says 115/220 volts thats why I bought the darn thing in the first place. I thought it could be wired for either.
The rating is 115/230 volts 28/14 amps. That means that at 115 volts full load amps is 28 amps. At 230 volts full load amps is 14 amps.
 
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Old 04-23-08, 10:21 AM
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The application of this motor is that it will be hooked up to a belt grinder.

OK so going 115 is out of the question because it will draw to many amps, crap.

Where I was planning on plugging this thing in is in my carport. It has what appears to be a fairly heavy gage wire running to a small flood light and then down into a box with two plugs. To set up a 240 I would have to run a completely different wire out there right? The existing plugs aren't used and the light only comes on at night, so there is no way I could just swap that outlet for a 240 and put a new breaker in my fuse box is there
 
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Old 04-23-08, 11:51 AM
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It will be much easier to just run new circuit for the motor you have there.

however i really suggest you get a book called "wiring simplifed " they are common found in big box store , hardware store , even libaery area which you can able read it.

that book will explain some info you are looking for.

but however i really suggest you put in your location so it make it easier to determed what it need to be done code wise [ there are few diffrent codes it have to dealt with it ]

My SOP for 2 HP motor run on 240 volt circuit min wire size is #12 with 20 amp two pole breaker. [ it will be either NM or THHN/THWN depending if it is piped or NM run however a head up with NM's if you use the #12-2 for it remark the white wire so you know you are using this a 240 volt feed so someone else don't get confused on that one ]

Merci,Marc
 
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Old 04-23-08, 12:02 PM
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Central Texas is my local.

Honestly at this point I'm starting to think about what would be cheaper a 1 HP motor or having an electrician come out.

Thanks for all the help.
 
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Old 04-23-08, 12:09 PM
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ahh ok that make sense there.

anyhow if you go with 1 HP motor route it will draw max of 16 amp that you can get by on 120v 20 amp circuit.

how far is the area you plan to run the motor to the breaker box ?? and is the breaker box outside or inside [ i know Texas have it both way so hard to say ]


Merci,Marc
 
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Old 04-23-08, 12:09 PM
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A 1 hp motor might require new cable as well. Check the ratings plate. You don't want over 12 amp at 115volts.
 
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Old 04-23-08, 12:23 PM
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Well the 1 HP mtors I'm seeing on ebay are more like 14 amp

Box is on the inside, it would be close to 40 or 50 feet I'd say.

Guess at this point I'll be calling to get estimates.

 
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Old 04-23-08, 12:44 PM
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I have a table saw with a 1-1/2 hp motor rated at 14.8 amperes at 120 volts and I use it on a 20 ampere general purpose circuit with no problem. Of course my panel is only about a foot away from the receptacle.

Your belt grinder is like my saw in that it runs pretty much unloaded until you start pushing the material into the moving belt. When you start to overload the circuit you will have a discernible dimming of that adjacent light and then you simply let up some of the pressure against the belt.

So, you probably can use the existing circuit with the one horsepower motor (depending on what else is on the circuit) but you won't be able to get the maximum possible use from your grinder without a new circuit.
 
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Old 04-23-08, 02:34 PM
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What about a voltage transformer?

I was doing some searching on line and stumbled across them, found a formula amps X volts = watts and I figured out my motor is a little over 3,000 watts and for a transformer that can handle that its about $110, with shipping on a 1HP motor this might actually save me some money and I would still get use the motor I already have and its got to be cheaper than hiring an electrician....what do you guys think.
 
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Old 04-23-08, 03:13 PM
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Watts in is the same or more than watts out. So while the amps on the output of the transformer will be half if you double the voltage to 240v, the amps on the input will be the same or even higher as there is some transformer losses.
 
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Old 05-02-08, 03:37 PM
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The saga continues...

Hey guys, Jason again. So after I realized that the electric motor I bought not to long ago was to big(thanks to you all) I bought a new to me used motor, it is 1hp and only draws 12.8 amps. So now I need to wire it for a 120 outlet and need some help.

Edited To Add: Forgot to mention its this motor here. http://www.baldor.com/products/detai...g=40CMB%2DCONT

On the left is a line that goes straight up to dot #1, then straight up to #3, then to the right to dot #8.

Second sequence: line on the middle bottom goes straight up to #4, then to the right to #5, then straight up to #2.

When you guys tell me how things should be connected I would appreciate it if you told me what type of cord and plug I need, as well as what ever else.

You guys were a big help last time, I am grateful for your patience.

Thanks,
Jason.
 
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Old 05-02-08, 04:15 PM
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Where are these lines and dots supposed to be? Is this the schematic drawing that shows L1 and L2 for the motor hookup? The dots would be where other wires connect at. I think we need more info.
 
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Old 05-02-08, 04:36 PM
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Diagram is on the spec plate and the one I provided is marked Low Voltage.
 
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Old 05-02-08, 05:07 PM
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I saw the motor on the link. Is there some sub-link we are to click on that shows something? Or is the link on some other thread you started? You'd think we need a link showing how to wire this motor to YOUR appliance.
 
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Old 05-02-08, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by ecman51` View Post
I saw the motor on the link. Is there some sub-link we are to click on that shows something? Or is the link on some other thread you started? You'd think we need a link showing how to wire this motor to YOUR appliance.
I never said appliance, its just a motor that needs a plug wired to it.

In the original thread the guys who seemed to know what they were talking about could tell what I meant and needed. Perhaps I was not as clear in this thread, my apologies if so.
 

Last edited by HotxxxxxxxOKC; 05-02-08 at 05:28 PM. Reason: ++ Merged original thread++
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Old 05-02-08, 05:47 PM
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Okay. Now I see. I just read your OP on this original thread. I will let the original people come on line and continue with this. Too time consuming for me to jump in the middle of the mix and try to sort thru all of this.
 
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Old 05-02-08, 06:03 PM
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Thanks to whoever "Moved" this thread and put it in its right place.

Originally Posted by ecman51` View Post
Okay. Now I see. I just read your OP on this original thread. I will let the original people come on line and continue with this. Too time consuming for me to jump in the middle of the mix and try to sort thru all of this.
Thanks, for the help so far ecman51.
 
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Old 05-02-08, 06:18 PM
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Using a minimum of a #14 three-conductor flexible cable (#12 is better) Connect motor leads #1, #3 and #8 to the black wire in your cable and motor leads #2, #4 and #5 to the white wire in your cable. Connect the green wire in your cable to the green screw on the motor.

At the other end of the cable connect the black wire to the brass-colored screw of the plug, the white wire to the silver-colored screw and the green wire to the green colored screw.

If the motor runs backwards for your application then connect the motor leads #1, #3 and #5 to the black wire and motor leads #2, #4 and #8 to the white wire.
 
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Old 05-02-08, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by furd View Post
Using a minimum of a #14 three-conductor flexible cable (#12 is better) Connect motor leads #1, #3 and #8 to the black wire in your cable and motor leads #2, #4 and #5 to the white wire in your cable. Connect the green wire in your cable to the green screw on the motor.

At the other end of the cable connect the black wire to the brass-colored screw of the plug, the white wire to the silver-colored screw and the green wire to the green colored screw.

If the motor runs backwards for your application then connect the motor leads #1, #3 and #5 to the black wire and motor leads #2, #4 and #8 to the white wire.
THANK YOU FURD!!!

Seriously, you guys have been a big help. I probably would have burned something down by now.
 
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Old 05-03-08, 06:44 PM
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I bought 12-2 with ground, is this correct? No green wire just white, back and copper(I'm assuming this is green.)

I had to go to Home Depot and Lowe's neither had flexible, this is marked 12-2 with ground, indoor( they didn't have outdoor it was a special order deal and was close to $70.)
 
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Old 05-03-08, 07:15 PM
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No, what you probably bought was type NM cable. It is for fixed wiring.

The big box stores DO have what you need and you can buy it by the foot from the reels on the big rack.

You want 12/3 of one of the following types. SO, SJ, SJO,SJT or SJTO. There may be some other designations. It will be a flexible round cord like a heavy-duty extension cord. It will have three fully insulated stranded and fully flexible wires inside a round flexible jacket. The inner insulation on the individual wires will be black, white and green.

What the letters mean.

S= hard service cord.
O= oil resistant
J=junior (SJ is junior hard service cord)
T= thermoplastic insulation

SJOT is a junior hard service, oil resistant cable with thermoplastic insulation.

You will also need to get a clamp for the end of the cable that will affix to the connection box on the motor.
 
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Old 05-03-08, 07:48 PM
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I see, most of what I saw was 12-3 with ground. I'll go back to HD tomorrow and look harder
 
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Old 02-01-10, 08:46 PM
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Question Wiring for the High Volt 2HP Farm Duty?

Hi Marc,
I have a similar situation but which of the wires do I connect to get High Voltage? Wiring diamgram for High Volt shows:

yel/blk(P1)__Line 1

Blue(T1)___INS
Gray(T6)___INS
Red (T8)___INS

Brown(P2)___INS

Orange(T3)_____INS
Black(T5)_______INS
White(T2)_______INS

Yellow(T4)___Line2

I have a 10/3 gauge wire (black, White & green) what colours do I connect up together? I have a Class 2510 type K Manual Motor Starting switch to connect as well & a 30 amp 230volt plug as well.
Thanks,
Lynch
 
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Old 02-01-10, 09:47 PM
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Lynchwilliams.,

The only thing I can ask you for now is can you get me the motor manufacter name due the one of the winding connectons do not show up in my chart so once I know what motor brand name then I can able dail down more tighter..

Oh by the way is your motor is what I call them Capaitor start and Capaitor run motor ? { this will show two visbale humps on the motor itself } or just Capaitotr start { one hump }

Merci,Marc
 
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