Jet Pump Pressure Switch Wiring 115V to 230V

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Old 05-14-08, 08:12 PM
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Jet Pump Pressure Switch Wiring 115V to 230V

I got a new 1/2hp shallow well jet pump to replace the one thats farting out, and this one I plan to rewire it from 115V to 230V. Changing it over in the motorhousing was pretty straightforward, my question is with wiring the pressure switch.

I currently have 14-3-G wire from the breakerbox to the pump switch box and also to the pump (both near the pump), but am replacing them with 10-3-G. The red and black hot wires attached to the double pole breaker going to the pump go to both "line" screws on the pressure switch, and the ground to one of the two green screws in the box, I understand all that...but what about the white return/neutral wire, does it get nutted off at the switchbox, connected to the other ground screw, or what? I'm leaning to just nutting it off. And if I can nut it off, do I even have to have it wired in back at the pump switchbox?

Thanks in advance!
Tom
 
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Old 05-14-08, 08:48 PM
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Actually you could have saved a bit of money and used 10-2. Just wire nut the white. If you ever want 120v you can use the cable for a 30a subpanel.
 
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Old 05-14-08, 09:01 PM
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You don't need it at all. Just nut it off.
 
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Old 05-15-08, 01:08 AM
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HP motor at 240V only draw about a shy under 5 amp and with 12-2 wire you will be fine for good 100 feet run but if the pump is more than 100 feet away from the house you can bump up one size [ you only need 10-2 W/G cables { just remarked the white wire with red or black marker so you know it is a 240 v circuit }]

But however some well pump i know some reqired 3 wire set up then go that route {XX-3W/G} [ more common on submersbile pump ]


Merci,Marc
 
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Old 05-15-08, 03:55 AM
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Wow, 12-2 could have done the job...and I have a spare run of that at the house. Ugh!

I only needed 9 feet total (but @ ~$17 for the 10-3-G) to go from the subpanel to the pump switch box and then to the pump, and I was trying to duplicate what was already there with the 14-3-G. And having read that 230V needs a 10-gauge wire, and to error on the safe side that the gauge I got.

Another question... The wire from the subpanel to the pump switchbox is also 14 gauge which will also need to be upsized to at least 12 gauge, but can I also use 12-2 for this run and not have a return/neutral wire connected?

On another note... The current setup has a 40amp double pole breaker, and asp per the spec sheet, I need to replace it with a 15amp double pole as the 40 is even too much for the current 115V pump. I priced the Wadsworth switch that is needed for the box and it is over $80 for the darn thing. Looks like to save some money I'll be replacing the switch AND the box since I can get the two of another make for less than the Wadsworth switch.

Anywhoo... Thanks for all the responses. I'm looking forward to this install, not for the sake of saving money (and I'm sure I'm saving alot regardless of purchasing the unnecessary 10-3-G wire) but for the satisfaction of doing it myself.

Thanks again!
Tom
 

Last edited by Buddur; 05-15-08 at 05:19 AM.
  #6  
Old 05-15-08, 05:18 AM
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It is not the volts that determines the wire size. It's the amps. A 1/2 HP pump would have run just fine on #14 wire.
Cap the neutral. It is not needed.
 
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Old 05-15-08, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by joed View Post
It is not the volts that determines the wire size. It's the amps. A 1/2 HP pump would have run just fine on #14 wire.
Cap the neutral. It is not needed.
Do you mean this for 230V? Because if so, then I wouldn't have to rewire anything...except for replacing the pump breaker switch and box to accommodate a 15A double switch.

Ya learn something everyday!
Thanks, JoeD!
 
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Old 05-15-08, 04:27 PM
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15 amp breaker 120v or 240v can use #14 wire/cable.
 
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