old work wall box for light
#1
08-26-08, 03:32 PM
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old work wall box for light
I'm trying to install some new wall sconces in my bathroom - there were no wall lights before. They aren't super heavy.
What are my options for "old work" boxes?
http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(4c...px?SKU=3230158 - the screw holes don't line up with my light, so I won't be able to screw the light fixture on to this box. Is there some standard for hole spacings that this guy doesn't respect??
The screw holes on receptacle/switch boxes aren't spaced right, either.
http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(4c...aspx?SKU=32712 - The flange on here is just *slightly* too large. I could file it down...
The "Smart Box" might work if only there was a stud where I want the light.
Is there a way to use one of those plain metal octagon boxes in an "old work" fashion? Is it ok to use those Madison "hold it" clips on the octagon boxes? Are there metal boxes for light fixtures that have "old work" ears?
thanks!
What are my options for "old work" boxes?
http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(4c...px?SKU=3230158 - the screw holes don't line up with my light, so I won't be able to screw the light fixture on to this box. Is there some standard for hole spacings that this guy doesn't respect??
The screw holes on receptacle/switch boxes aren't spaced right, either.
http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(4c...aspx?SKU=32712 - The flange on here is just *slightly* too large. I could file it down...
The "Smart Box" might work if only there was a stud where I want the light.
Is there a way to use one of those plain metal octagon boxes in an "old work" fashion? Is it ok to use those Madison "hold it" clips on the octagon boxes? Are there metal boxes for light fixtures that have "old work" ears?
thanks!
#2
08-26-08, 03:38 PM
You'll have to buy a mounting bracket. Said bracket screws into the threaded holes in the outlet box. There are 4 threaded holes, two on each side, in the mounting bracket and the scone will screw into two of those holes.
Take a trip to the local hardware store and ask for the mounting bracket.
Take a trip to the local hardware store and ask for the mounting bracket.
#3
08-26-08, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by thinman
You'll have to buy a mounting bracket. Said bracket screws into the threaded holes in the outlet box. There are 4 threaded holes, two on each side, in the mounting bracket and the scone will screw into two of those holes.
Take a trip to the local hardware store and ask for the mounting bracket.
Take a trip to the local hardware store and ask for the mounting bracket.
Is this mounting bracket something I can install without removing more drywall?? If so I am very intrigued.
-Erik
#4
08-26-08, 03:55 PM
You'll still have to install the work box.
Wish I could find a picture of the mounting bracket. It's actually a two piece setup with a center pivot point that swivels into a cross shape. The bottom part mounts to the work box. The top piece can be rotated so its mounting holes will lineup with the mounting holes in the scone.
Are there any Big Box stores in your area?
Wish I could find a picture of the mounting bracket. It's actually a two piece setup with a center pivot point that swivels into a cross shape. The bottom part mounts to the work box. The top piece can be rotated so its mounting holes will lineup with the mounting holes in the scone.
Are there any Big Box stores in your area?
#5
08-26-08, 04:04 PM
If you'll notice there is a brass colored bracket in the center of the box in this picture which you use to actually mount the fixture. The bracket is somewhat "X" shaped which rotates around the middle. One of the straps has holes which match the box, the other strap has holes which match the fixture. The sconces should come with the bracket -- it is considered part of the fixture.
#7
08-26-08, 04:23 PM
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Thanks for the notes - but I don't think this solves my problem. First, I *think* I've checked out that blue old work box in ipbooks' picture, and the flange on it is too big - it pokes out the side of the sconce just a speck. I'm about to just install it and use caulk or something to cover it up if I can't figure this out.
Second, the light does come with a "bracket" of sorts, but it is a square with various holes on it that screws can go through to secure it to the jbox. If I used the bracket from this picture then my light would be like a half inch or something away from the wall?
Let me put it this way - if I had one of those octagon boxes already secured in there so that the edge of it was flush with the drywall, then I would be all set - the screws on those would fit perfectly in my sconce's bracket.
Second, the light does come with a "bracket" of sorts, but it is a square with various holes on it that screws can go through to secure it to the jbox. If I used the bracket from this picture then my light would be like a half inch or something away from the wall?
Let me put it this way - if I had one of those octagon boxes already secured in there so that the edge of it was flush with the drywall, then I would be all set - the screws on those would fit perfectly in my sconce's bracket.
#8
08-26-08, 04:55 PM
You could just file down part of the lip on the blue old work box until the sconce canopy fit over top. Or you could try to find one of these . You may need to get these from an electrical supply house. Arlington Industries makes them.
http://aifittings.com/whnew95.htm
http://aifittings.com/whnew95.htm
#9
08-26-08, 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by pcboss
You could just file down part of the lip on the blue old work box until the sconce canopy fit over top.
Originally Posted by pcboss
Or you could try to find one of these . You may need to get these from an electrical supply house. Arlington Industries makes them.
http://aifittings.com/whnew95.htm
http://aifittings.com/whnew95.htm
#10
08-26-08, 06:38 PM
I know people who have had the flange be too wide for the fixture and field modified it
. I don't think that this would really matter as the integrity of the wiring compartment would still be intact.
Most mounting brackets have various slotted holes to allow mounting to a variety of box shapes.
The bracket shown in Bens post typically is covered by the canopy bulge.
. I don't think that this would really matter as the integrity of the wiring compartment would still be intact.Most mounting brackets have various slotted holes to allow mounting to a variety of box shapes.
The bracket shown in Bens post typically is covered by the canopy bulge.
#12
08-27-08, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by ray2047
You could also use a fan bracket. Yes, over kill structurally and much more expensive but no lip. You would just install between the studs and tighten.
thanks everyone for your help!
-erik
#13
08-27-08, 11:55 AM
Originally Posted by ErikCHaugen
Is there something like this that you can install without removing more than the 3 or 4 inch circle of drywall?
Just to be clear I am talking about a ceiling fan retrofit box and brace. You just insert the brace through the hole and turn a nut to expand against the joists, or in this case studs. Then tighten with a wrench. The box is then inserted and fastened to it.
#14
08-27-08, 02:43 PM
I take it you can't use the light fixture bracket. You need a box that will allow the sconce to fasten directly to it?
Maybe this will work:
http://images.grainger.com/images/products/6XC84.JPG
Maybe this will work:
http://images.grainger.com/images/products/6XC84.JPG
#15
08-27-08, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by thinman
I take it you can't use the light fixture bracket. You need a box that will allow the sconce to fasten directly to it?
Originally Posted by thinman
ray2047 - I'll see if I can find one of those fan brackets and if the screw holes line up. Thanks! If not, then I guess I'll file off the edges of that other box.
thanks,
Erik
#16
08-27-08, 03:27 PM
Originally Posted by ErikCHaugen
Yeah, that looks perfect. It's essentially the same as the octagon boxes I've mentioned. The question is how do I affix that to my wall without removing all the drywall?
#17
08-27-08, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by thinman
Mount the box on the wall surface via a stud or use toggle bolts. If that won't work place the box on a stud. Draw an outline around the box. Use a drill and hole saw to cut the sheetrock slightly larger than the diameter of the box.
Toggle bolts are intriguing - I can't imagine where exactly they would go, but I haven't examined the entire range of available toggle bolts.
Would these be preferable to those madison hangers and an octagonal box? http://images.hardwareandtools.com/P/u243436.jpg I'm not sure if these hangers are approved for other kinds of boxes...
thanks,
Erik
