Switch & Outlet Device Wiring

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  #1  
Old 09-09-08, 10:15 PM
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Switch & Outlet Device Wiring

I am trying to install this switch/outlet device in my home. I can't quite get it to work. Here are the details:
14/2 wire coming from electrical panel to switch/outlet. Next stop is the overhead light (2 bulb, nothing fancy). Next stop is the GFI outlet above the counter. All 14/2 wire. I have tried numerous configurations and have had the outlet only work with the switch on, outlet work correctly, lights work correctly, no power at GFI; power throughout but the lights don't switch off. I have about 5 different sets of directions for various wiring methods but none of them seem to work. Please help! The unit has 3 copper and one silver screw plus the ground screw. Hope this is enough info! Thanks.
 
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  #2  
Old 09-09-08, 10:52 PM
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If what you describe is the the way it is - 14/2 between each location - you cannot do what you want to do. In order to switch the light and then continue to another box with an outlet you would need 3 wire cable between the first (switch/outlet) and the light. A neutral, a switched wire for the light, and an always hot wire to carry onto the next outlet box.

Am I reading what you say correctly?
 
  #3  
Old 09-10-08, 10:45 AM
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What counter is it? If it is at least kitchen or bath, it should have a 20A circuit, which 14/2 is no good for.
 
  #4  
Old 09-10-08, 11:39 AM
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As classicsat has said, that's not up to code. You need a dedicated 20 amp 12/2 run for the GFCI outlet if it's in the kitchen or bath.

But...... This is the easiest, most logical way to do it with one circuit. There are about 10 different ways to wire your setup, most would use less wire, but again, this is the most logical way.

White neutral wires are depicted as yellow and grounds aren't shown. All devices should be grounded and all ground wires tied together. I hope I understood your setup correctly. I know your just trying to run one wire to the light and then on to the GFCI but that's why it's not working. You need to run 14/3 from the doublegang box to the light fixture and then 14/2 from the light fixture to the GFCI outlet..... I can draw you a new one if you insist on running wires like that.... That's a little sloppy IMO but certainly still nothing wrong with it.

 
  #5  
Old 09-11-08, 09:01 AM
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Thanks to each of you

Regarding my switch/outlet device: First, I am using 14/2 not the 12/2 I originally stated. I think I now know I have to use 14/3 from the switch/outlet device to the light, but I'm not sure what wires need to connect to which screws, as well as how the wires will connect to the light fixture. I know I need to pass power through the light to the next GFI outlet but again, my brain is now mush around all of this. Thanks for all of your help so far.
 
  #6  
Old 09-11-08, 09:26 AM
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How old is your house? The reason I ask is because it may explain why you have 14 gauge wire and not 12 gauge.
 
  #7  
Old 09-11-08, 09:28 AM
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You can also cut down on some wire nut usage there by using the bottom terminals of the first outlet but you should get the idea. There are always a million and one different ways to do something.

 
  #8  
Old 09-11-08, 11:00 AM
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I believe he is asking how to wire one of these into his circuit....



But he may need one of these....

 
  #9  
Old 09-11-08, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Fletcher 9322 View Post
The unit has 3 copper and one silver screw plus the ground screw.
Crap. Your right Bruto. Now that makes sense. I wish he would have said something after my first picture... These things don't grow on trees ya' know...

Actually, I just need to start reading more carefully. Seems to be a reoccurring motif with me lately.
 

Last edited by madpenguin; 09-11-08 at 12:24 PM.
  #10  
Old 09-11-08, 12:09 PM
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Hopefully, there is a tab on the side that contains both copper screws. If not, I'm not drawing another picture...

 
  #11  
Old 09-11-08, 01:01 PM
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Also, It's already been mentioned twice and I don't know if your skirting the issue or not by not responding, but please don't run that circuit to the GFCI outlet if it's in the kitchen or bathroom. Especially not the kitchen (but not the bathroom either).

It REALLY needs to be on it's own 20 amp 12/2 run. If you decide to plug in a large microwave on that 14/2 circuit, your going to heat up that wire in no time. The longer it runs, the worse it's going to get. When you have excessive heat, it WILL lead to fire. Something like a counter top oven/toaster might even be worse than a microwave because you have the potential to cook something for hours with it.

To compound the above, you could have made a weak connection with the black and red wire in the ceiling light box which adds alot of resistance, which in turn, exacerbates the heat situation from running a 1300 watt microwave on 14/2 wire. Before you know it, you've got open flame in your ceiling gang box. A minute later, your ceiling is burning from the inside out.

So then, as your standing in your front yard watching your house burn down, you'll probably really wish you would have ran that new 12/2 run to the microwave....
 
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