Rough-in for hard wired devices

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Old 10-08-08, 12:23 PM
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Rough-in for hard wired devices

My kitchen is torn down to the studs right now. I've roughed-in the boxes for light switches, receptacles, and overhead lighting.

How do I treat the wiring for my planned under-cabinet lighting and my hardwired dishwasher?

I don't want to "convert" the DW to a plug. The installation instructions show that the hook up is under the toe kick and the unit will slide nicely into place with a solid cable extending out from the wall. (Same goes for the plumbing.) My question is, what sort of box/cover is used to transition from behind the drywall?

Similar case for the lighting. The cabinets will cover where the cable exit the wall and will be drilled for the cables to pass through. So how do I prepare the drywall exit point?

Thanks in advance; this forum rocks!


-Dave
 
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Old 10-08-08, 12:46 PM
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Are you routing the cables through the attic or in the crawl space?
 
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Old 10-08-08, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by thinman View Post
Are you routing the cables through the attic or in the crawl space?
I can do either; the basement is unfinished. But I am installing ceramic tile wall-to-wall, so I don't want to drill up through the floor. The under-cab lights will be controlled by two 3-way switches. I plan to route the cable connecting them down into the basement rather than through all the kitchen studs.
 
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Old 10-08-08, 01:05 PM
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For the dishwasher you just leave a long tail either out of the wall or the back corner of the floor. There would be no box.

For the undercabinet lights just measure from the countertop height to the bottom of the wall cabinets and leave the tail sticking through the drywall. You can be a little high as the cabinets will cover. Too low and you will need to patch.
 
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Old 10-08-08, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by pcboss View Post
For the dishwasher you just leave a long tail either out of the wall or the back corner of the floor. There would be no box.

For the undercabinet lights just measure from the countertop height to the bottom of the wall cabinets and leave the tail sticking through the drywall. You can be a little high as the cabinets will cover. Too low and you will need to patch.
Wow, really? For all the do's and don'ts I've read about here, I was sure that a cable poking out of a hole in the wall would have been a don't. Good to know.

But that doesn't make putting up the drywall any easier. at least with a box of some sort I could tuck the cable into the box as the drywall goes up. As you've described it, I'll have to pull the cable through the hole and have it dangling there while aligning and screwing the drywall in place.

What if I bring the cable to a handy box and cut it short there, then install the drywall with a hole for the box, then add a short run of cable through a clamp on the handy cover and splice? Or did I just invent the permanent receptacle?
 
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Old 10-08-08, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by davlafont View Post
Wow, really? For all the do's and don'ts I've read about here, I was sure that a cable poking out of a hole in the wall would have been a don't. Good to know.?
I do it that way all the time. You could sleeve the romex into 1/2" flexible metal conduit for physical protection.


Originally Posted by davlafont View Post
But that doesn't make putting up the drywall any easier. at least with a box of some sort I could tuck the cable into the box as the drywall goes up. As you've described it, I'll have to pull the cable through the hole and have it dangling there while aligning and screwing the drywall in place.

What if I bring the cable to a handy box and cut it short there, then install the drywall with a hole for the box, then add a short run of cable through a clamp on the handy cover and splice? Or did I just invent the permanent receptacle?

You can't conceal a junction box.
 
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Old 10-08-08, 07:36 PM
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Yes it is tricky to get all the wires out the drywall at the right height. But you really only need to be close 1 inch or so LOW! Then you can slot the drywall and movr the wire up to the bottom of the cabinet. If the cabinet has a recessed bottom I usually drill through the bottom lip and run my wire in through it for a cleaner looking job. The drywall patch is minimal and easily covered up by a tile backsplash or formica.
If you are running seperate wires for each light and not daisy chaining them together there is a trick I use that the contractors seem to like. I run my switch leg to a junction box behind the fridge then run individual runs out to each light. Keep in mind box fill for the junction box. and blank plate off the junction box. If you are using lights that require low voltage wire then this method will not work, but lights wired to romex it works great.

B
 
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Old 10-08-08, 07:53 PM
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Thanks to all.

Thinman, I was thinking that the junction box would protrude through the drywall like any other. Instead of having a switch or receptacle, it would be covered with it's normal metal cover with a knockout. It was overthinking on my part. I promise not to conceal any boxes!

Bunky, you describe what I plan to do. I checked with the cabinet supplier (who worked up our overall design) and he gave me the dimension to the bottom of the cabinets, plus 1/2" of skirt that will be drilled to let the cables come through. I like the idea of drilling low and slotting to fit.

The sad part is that I don't even have the lights yet! I don't know if I'm wiring for fluorescent boxes, or halogen pucks, or a low-voltage set-up... I'm placing the wires at the mid-point of the cabinet and "flexecute" from there.
 
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Old 10-08-08, 07:56 PM
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The other thing I want to pass it here is that with undercabent luminaires they can not hook up to the SABC { small appalince branch circuit }

You can have them on the lighting circuit.

For the dishwasher just leave a metre {3 FT} of cable sticking out.

For the undercabent luminaries you can have the wires propped out the wall just make sure you double check the height it better have little high than too low.

Merci,Marc
 
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Old 10-08-08, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by BunkyX View Post
If you are running seperate wires for each light and not daisy chaining them together there is a trick I use that the contractors seem to like. I run my switch leg to a junction box behind the fridge then run individual runs out to each light. Keep in mind box fill for the junction box. and blank plate off the junction box. If you are using lights that require low voltage wire then this method will not work, but lights wired to romex it works great.

B
Good idea! Thanks for the tip!!

Leaving a tail out for the lights is the best way. Make your hole in the rock before you lift it up. Make them a few inches higher than you expect the bottom of the cabinets to be. Get a helper to poke each tail through when you get the rock up. If you want to make it even easier make the tail REALLY long so you can thread it with the rock on the floor. Then when you lift it up it should just slide through. You may be able to do that by your self.

Or you could cut the rock a few inches above the cabinet bottoms and make a seam. The seam will be behind the cabinet so you don't have to do a perfect tape job.

Again, when you hang the cabinets you can just slot the rock down to the right level for the lights.
 
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Old 11-16-09, 11:05 PM
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I know this is old post but I am currently re wiring my gutted kitchen. I have not yet picked my under cabinet lights (xenon, LED, etc.) should I plan to have wire for each cabinet? or do then generally only need one supply and then link by low voltage wire? I know it can vary but just wondered in year since this was posted whether any particular setup has really come into the forefront.

did the wiring of dishwashers change with NEC 2008? Do have option of hard wiring or cord/plug? or is it dictated by code? Dishwasher hasn't arrived yet buy looks like there is armored whip that goes to junction box. someone mentioned leaving tail? would you then drywall and put a box surface mounted on top of drywall (of course attached to a stud) and then bring the dishwasher cable into a knockout?

for disposal, since there is a cabinet with back on it, would you leave a tail for rough in, then after drywalled, cut hole in back of cabinet to get cable into cabinet and then surface mount box to the back of cabinet? thats what I planned for cooktop and wall oven. but they both have armored cable where disposal is cord.
 
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Old 11-17-09, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by davlafont View Post
Thanks to all.

Thinman, I was thinking that the junction box would protrude through the drywall like any other. Instead of having a switch or receptacle, it would be covered with it's normal metal cover with a knockout. It was overthinking on my part. I promise not to conceal any boxes!

Bunky, you describe what I plan to do. I checked with the cabinet supplier (who worked up our overall design) and he gave me the dimension to the bottom of the cabinets, plus 1/2" of skirt that will be drilled to let the cables come through. I like the idea of drilling low and slotting to fit.

The sad part is that I don't even have the lights yet! I don't know if I'm wiring for fluorescent boxes, or halogen pucks, or a low-voltage set-up... I'm placing the wires at the mid-point of the cabinet and "flexecute" from there.
If you're doing low voltage lights you can install a single gang box above your cabinets out of sight. Put a receptacle there controlled by your switches. Plug in your low voltage transformer above your cabinets and then make your low voltage wire runs to your cabinets.

Jim
 
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