Having some electrical work re-done by a master electrician in conjunction with putting in a standby generator, and I want to know what to expect since I'm not sure the previous master electrician did it correctly. I know he didn't do a very "clean" job. The layout has the POCO meter box on the outside wall of my shop. The service entrance rated ATS is directly behind it inside the shop. This Siemens mobile home load center... [url]http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000UJDSZA?smid=A1IZCISXTFZ9OX&tag=dealtime-tools-20&linkCode=asn[/url] ...will be mounted beside the ATS and will be fed by the ATS. It has circuits for my shop and my water well pump. The feed-thru lugs in the load center will have cables that go to another load center (same model) mounted beside this one. The second load center contains no breakers except the main breaker. It's only purpose is to be able to shut off power to my house (from outside my house) while maintaining power in my shop. The feed-thru lugs on second one are used for cables that go to my house 200 feet away (underground cable). My house has a "regular" load center with a 200 amp main breaker. The neutral and ground in my house panel are not bonded. There are four cables running between the load center in my house and the 2nd load center in the shop. I think this part is correct. The question is...how should the two load panels and the ATS in the shop be set up with regard to neutral/ground bonding and grounding to a ground rod? The last electrician ran a separate ground wire from each of the three panels in the shop to the same outdoor ground rod. The 1st load center (connected to the ATS and containing my shop circuits) has the neutral and ground bonded (using the same bar). The 2nd load center in the shop has the neutral and ground bars separate and not bonded. So is this how it should be? These load centers are called mobile home load centers. Is that just because of the feed-thru capability? Thanks, Ira

I'm a new member to this forum, but I've been doing a lot of work in my home for several years. I've always been a stickler for detail and when we moved into our new home we had two problems. 1) we couldn't plug our drier in. The wall socket that was there for it was meant for a gas drier (ours is electric), we took a look at our drier and found that the cable on it was a four prong cable, but was compatible with a three prong cable so long as it was a 30 amp 10 gauge power supply. No big deal right? 2) Well after replacing the cable to the drier, and getting ready to replace the wall socket so that the new cable would fit, we found out that the wall had only three wires (which we expected) but that the wires weren't in the setup that our drier would work with. Our drier has four wires, typical white, red, black, and green. Our wall wiring has three wires... untypical white, black, and green. I can tell the white and black wires easily (their insulation are color coded) The green wire is stripped of all insulation. In all the tutorials and other forums I've looked at, generally I've been reading that the wires coming from the wall should be white, black, and red. (or green) and that there are usually (generally) two hot, and one neutral or ground wire. Since I have both a neutral and a ground but only one(?) hot, how on earth do I set up our drier? We have it working (to an extent) but the timer/heating doesn't seem to work on the drier, so it's tumbling the clothes, but not drying them, and the drier doesn't 'count down' so it stops on it's own and I generally have to go and turn the drier off manually but the clothes aren't dry. Is there any way to bypass this and get our drier -really- working?