LIGHTED SWITCH and Haunted light

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Old 02-28-09, 08:36 PM
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LIGHTED SWITCH and Haunted light

I have another issue....I installed a two tube florescent light fixture in my attic. It gets its power from being pluged into a outlet I also installed. The socket the light is pluged into is controlled by lighted single pole toggle switch. I used the light (glow in the dark) type switch to easly see as you climb the pull down attic stairs I also installed. Tonight I noticed the end of one of the light tube flicker every 15 seconds or so as I climbed the stairs BEFORE I turned it on. Is it haunted or getting some voltage from the lighted switch?
 
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Old 02-28-09, 08:50 PM
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Lighted switches that do not have a neutral constantly draw a small amount of power through the fixture, They are not suitable for florescent lights.

Harder to find is switches that use a neutral (and hot) to power the light, It would require a neutral in the switch box. If your switch is on a switch loop there won't be a neutral. Simplest solution is an unlighted switch.
 
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Old 03-06-09, 05:53 PM
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oK, I can see how "glow in the dark" switchs work now. Am I doing any harm to the light tubes, anything dangerous or fire hazard, or just a waste of electricity here???

Yes it is on a switch loop. The way it's wired to control a socket that the light is pluged into, they are inexpensive fixtures I thought sutable for an attic. And 2 conductor 14-2 was used from where the box with the socket is located to a remote box which houses the spst switch. Would I be able to corect this if I switched the 14-2 with 14-3? How/where to untilise the 3rd line to stop my haunted light tube?
 
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Old 03-06-09, 07:13 PM
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You would need the type of switch that has a neutral for the light. Red and black of the 14-3 would provide the switch loop and the white the neutral for the light in the switch. You need to look closely at the lighted switch when you buy it to make sure it uses a neutral.. You could also just use incandescent bulbs with the switch you have.
 
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