New Shop Build Help on wiring
#1
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New Shop Build Help on wiring
I to all and first I would like to say very nice site.
Now here is what I am running into.
1. Woodworking Shop
2. Size is 16 X 36
Now what I am wanting to know which would be better or what I should use.
Conduit or should I just wire it with 12-2 NM-B with Ground Indoor Electrical Wire
If conduit i have seen they have stranded wire and also solid which this is a big price differance.
stranded is only 40.00 a roll or is 70.00 LOL
Thank you
Now here is what I am running into.
1. Woodworking Shop
2. Size is 16 X 36
Now what I am wanting to know which would be better or what I should use.
Conduit or should I just wire it with 12-2 NM-B with Ground Indoor Electrical Wire
If conduit i have seen they have stranded wire and also solid which this is a big price differance.
stranded is only 40.00 a roll or is 70.00 LOL
Thank you
#2
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Need more info......how from from main panel, power requirements for the shop, sub-panel, etc???????? 12/2 will likely not run much, and certainly not enough for a workshop. As to conduit, again how far, and local codes determine if conduit is needed.
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ok first of all there is now sub this is a main 100 amp
as for codes there is not really any
this is a wood work shop which will be running like table saw and bandsaw, ect.
12/2 is alright for that my main thing was if i should run conduit out of the box and run the stranded wire though conduit or if i should run my wires in the walls.
the farest of the conduit would have to run is the air comp. which would be about 36 ft.
as for codes there is not really any
this is a wood work shop which will be running like table saw and bandsaw, ect.
12/2 is alright for that my main thing was if i should run conduit out of the box and run the stranded wire though conduit or if i should run my wires in the walls.
the farest of the conduit would have to run is the air comp. which would be about 36 ft.
#4
ok first of all there is now sub this is a main 100 amp
Also what is the amperage of the main panel?
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ok
this is a main coming off the meter it is a 100 amp main 4 wire
all this is from the the old shop which i ran it all with 12/2 all i was wondering if it would be better to use conduit for the wiring this time of if i should go back and wire it in the walls like the old shop was.
all i did was tear down the old shop and built a bigger one and wanted to make it a little better on things.
as for the air comp. and stuff all that stuff is in storage and just can't go and check to see that the rating is i do know that 12/2 was just fine for it when i wired it in the old shop.
this is a main coming off the meter it is a 100 amp main 4 wire
all this is from the the old shop which i ran it all with 12/2 all i was wondering if it would be better to use conduit for the wiring this time of if i should go back and wire it in the walls like the old shop was.
all i did was tear down the old shop and built a bigger one and wanted to make it a little better on things.
as for the air comp. and stuff all that stuff is in storage and just can't go and check to see that the rating is i do know that 12/2 was just fine for it when i wired it in the old shop.
#6
If you aren't required by local code to use conduit I would just go with #12 NM. If there is a chance of damage to the cable you might want to use short sections of conduit where it runs down the studs. If there will be interior sheathing over the studs then no need for conduit.
Note: While it is common in sheds to run NM protected only by the studs they are fastened to there has been discussion here that strictly speaking that may not be permitted by the NEC. You could use armored cable also.
Stranded wire is a bit easier to use but I'd go with the cheapest.
Note: While it is common in sheds to run NM protected only by the studs they are fastened to there has been discussion here that strictly speaking that may not be permitted by the NEC. You could use armored cable also.
Stranded wire is a bit easier to use but I'd go with the cheapest.
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yes I don't have any codes here that i have to worry about.
my walls are going to be sheeted with 7/16" OSB
that the reason i was wondering about running conduit/
I was thinking that if i ran it up at the ceiling and at each point that i wanted something that i could just drop it straight down the wall.
all my outlets are going to be 4' from floor up.
as for the stranded that came in 500 ft. for like 28.95 right now on sale.
which i can get a roll of 12/2 for 144.00 which is a 1000ft.
but as the conduit i thinking that it is easyer to add to then if it was in the wall.
my walls are going to be sheeted with 7/16" OSB
that the reason i was wondering about running conduit/
I was thinking that if i ran it up at the ceiling and at each point that i wanted something that i could just drop it straight down the wall.
all my outlets are going to be 4' from floor up.
as for the stranded that came in 500 ft. for like 28.95 right now on sale.
which i can get a roll of 12/2 for 144.00 which is a 1000ft.
but as the conduit i thinking that it is easyer to add to then if it was in the wall.
#8
With sheathed walls as long as there is access from above it is easy to drop new cables if needed. Even insulation if bat or loose isn't that hard if you shove a fish tape through. NM would be the easy way to go IMHO.
#9
If the walls are open, use Romex (NM-B) If they are finished use conduit. Running conduit through the studs is a big PIA.
If your sub is recessed in the wall, I would stub out a couple 1/2" EMT pipes and maybe a 3/4" before you sheath the walls and ceiling. So when you buy the new 50 amp welder (for example) you can easily pull a new circuit for it. If your panel is surface mounted then nevermind.
If your sub is recessed in the wall, I would stub out a couple 1/2" EMT pipes and maybe a 3/4" before you sheath the walls and ceiling. So when you buy the new 50 amp welder (for example) you can easily pull a new circuit for it. If your panel is surface mounted then nevermind.