Wiring an older 220 tanning bed

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Old 04-08-09, 01:15 PM
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Question Wiring an older 220 tanning bed

well ive read through a few tanning bed threads on here but there isnt one that is dead on to help me so here goes.

First of all i got the tanning bed free on craigslist, and here are the specs and stuff.

Sunquest 7000
type. 1000 H-2D1
Serial # 00002657
V=220v 60Hz
P= 1100w
I=5.7A
cos=.85
Date: jan 1990 made in holland UK

Its a 40 bulb stand up unit that has 4 seporate walls going to a plastic type junction box with the contactor, and the power end has a 3 prong end with black/white/green (10/2) wires going into the male end.

When i first got the bed i pluged it into the 220 box in our barn where we use a welder and it fired right up, 4 of the biulbs were bad tho so took those out. after about 5-7 minutes it would blow the breaker in the barn. The breaker is a 40amp out there with 10/2 wire running to the plug. After flipping the breaker back on and turning the bed back on it now would only take about 2 minutes to trip it...so somethings not right. maybe a short somewhere? a ballast gone bad? any ideas?

I now moved the bed into the basement in the house and now need to figure out what size wire, breaker amp size and stuff to hook it up.

Im assuming that it might need a 50 amp breaker, and then i would have to use like #6 wire?? or would this be overkill. we already have 10/2 and 10/3 wire that is ran from the fusebox into the basement that is tied off and not used and i would be really sweet if i could use that but want to be safe and not burn the house down either!

Any help will be appreciated!!!! Thanks

Ty
 
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Old 04-08-09, 01:38 PM
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Based on the specifications you posted, the unit requires a 15A double-pole breaker with #14 copper wire. The I=5.7A is the current (amperage) rating. The receptacle and cord cap (plug) that you would use would be a NEMA 6-15 R/P.

I suspect that you have a bad ballast if it tripped a 40A breaker.
 
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Old 04-09-09, 08:46 AM
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thanks for the reply, i have a Nema 6-15 end on it already so im glad about that. I guess ill have to inspect it and look for a bad ballast....any tips on what to look for, i have no idea how to spot one or test one....im assuming if a good bulb wont work in one its bad on at least one end...?

Would it be a mistake to use a #10 cable to hook it up instead of the 14 because i already have that ran or would that be too much overkill?
 
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Old 04-09-09, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by ty_lax6 View Post
any tips on what to look for, i have no idea how to spot one or test one
Oily "gunk" leaking out of it is a common failure. Higher temperature is also an indicator. If you have an IR thermometer gun you can check to see if one ballast is hotter than the others.

Would it be a mistake to use a #10 cable to hook it up instead of the 14 because i already have that ran or would that be too much overkill?
The #10 wire is okay -- you can always use a larger wire than requires. The code value of #14 is a minimum.

What is not okay is the larger breaker though, that really needs to be a 15A.
 
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Old 04-11-09, 12:43 AM
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Let me add this detail along the way senice you mention the tanning bed is from UK there is a major gotcha with colour codes.

That date it is on old UK colour codes .,

Black = Netural
Red = Live { hot or line }

So if you going to change the ballast make sure you watch the colour codes carefully.

Merci,Marc
 
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Old 04-13-09, 01:35 PM
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well i havent touched it yet but figureed out that it actally has a NEMA 6-50 plug on it bevcause thats what out sohp 220V had as a plug. Is this way to much? or doesnt it matter as long as its about the 15A rating?

Im going to go grab a 15A double pole breaker and hook the 10/2 wire up and see what it does, im going to take a look around too and see if any of the balasts are bad...i do have a few that dont work...would this throw it off. it had bad bulbs in it and i tried some good ones in it too and it wouldnt light em up....not sure how they are wired iup where if one quits it will throw the breaker sooner or later...

thanks again for the help already!
 
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Old 04-13-09, 02:53 PM
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If putting known good bulbs in all the sockets (tombstones) that originate from a ballast does not result in all bulbs fully lit then either , starter, if any, connections or ballast is bad. Substitution is the only practical way to check a ballast but if you rule out bulbs and connections and there are no starters that's all that's left. Have you priced ballasts for this unit? I know you said you got it for free but ballasts can be expensive.
 
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