Wiremold question
#1
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Wiremold question
We have a kitchen island that I'd like to add some outlets to. It has no wiring at all currently and no clearance inside the island (due to drawers, etc.) to put in a traditional box/outlet.
So what I am looking to do is install a piece of wiremold (6 outlets) underneath the island overhang. I do have enough room to snake the wire (Romex) up behind the drawers.
So now I'm looking at the wiremold I purchased (VG20GB306+) and am trying to figure out how to connect Romex to it. Can I just strip off all of the jacket of the Romex once it is inside the wiremold and then just use wirenuts to split into the wiremold ? Also, what do I do with the extra wire on both ends ? Cut off shorter and cap with wirenuts ?
Finally, I believe it says if using Romex I need to use the grounding clip indicated (additional purchase). Just wondering why splicing into the green wire wouldn't be sufficient.
Oh...one more question - instead of using their "W30" connectors, can I just use plain old wirenuts ? Any advantages to their connectors ?
Dang - thought of one more question...since this is going to be in a kitchen, does it need to be GFCI protected ? It will not be near the sink.
Thanks in advance...
So what I am looking to do is install a piece of wiremold (6 outlets) underneath the island overhang. I do have enough room to snake the wire (Romex) up behind the drawers.
So now I'm looking at the wiremold I purchased (VG20GB306+) and am trying to figure out how to connect Romex to it. Can I just strip off all of the jacket of the Romex once it is inside the wiremold and then just use wirenuts to split into the wiremold ? Also, what do I do with the extra wire on both ends ? Cut off shorter and cap with wirenuts ?
Finally, I believe it says if using Romex I need to use the grounding clip indicated (additional purchase). Just wondering why splicing into the green wire wouldn't be sufficient.
Oh...one more question - instead of using their "W30" connectors, can I just use plain old wirenuts ? Any advantages to their connectors ?
Dang - thought of one more question...since this is going to be in a kitchen, does it need to be GFCI protected ? It will not be near the sink.
Thanks in advance...
Last edited by swallman; 06-07-09 at 09:52 AM. Reason: Added another question...
#2
We have a kitchen island that I'd like to add some outlets to. It has no wiring at all currently and no clearance inside the island (due to drawers, etc.) to put in a traditional box/outlet.
So what I am looking to do is install a piece of wiremold (6 outlets) underneath the island overhang. I do have enough room to snake the wire (Romex) up behind the drawers.
So what I am looking to do is install a piece of wiremold (6 outlets) underneath the island overhang. I do have enough room to snake the wire (Romex) up behind the drawers.
So now I'm looking at the wiremold I purchased (VG20GB306+) and am trying to figure out how to connect Romex to it. Can I just strip off all of the jacket of the Romex once it is inside the wiremold and then just use wirenuts to split into the wiremold ? Also, what do I do with the extra wire on both ends ? Cut off shorter and cap with wirenuts ?
If you are in the US it will need to be GFCI protected. You can use either a GFCI breaker or feed it off the load side of a GFCI receptacle. It also will need to be a 20 amp circuit with #12 wire.
#3
I've not seen cabinets so tight that I couldn't put in a shallow box for a receptacle, either between drawers or offset to the back side of the cabinet. If you opt for the surface mount, where will your supply come from? Not sure about "splitting into the wiremold" and "extra wire". You will have to use the grounding clips in order to ground the metal casing. They aren't worried about your appliance. Where is this green wire coming from? You can use wire nuts, but not winged ones as they may take up too much space. Why are you using wirenuts anyway? Your cable should connect directly to the receptacle without the use of connectors. If it is in an island as part of the kitchen, it must be GFCI protected. In your situation, protect it from the panel via a GFCI breaker, since you won't have room for the receptacle.
Scott types faster than I do.
Scott types faster than I do.
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Tolyn (Scott?) and Chandler,
Thanks for the replies from both of you. Tolyn, I'm only about 90 minutes downriver (Mississippi) from you on the Wisconsin side (go Pack!)...
Tolyn pretty much confirmed everything I was asking about - the "green" wire is actually inside the wiremold and daisy-chains from one receptacle to the next. If I use the grounding clip, then I don't have to do anything with the green wire inside the wiremold, correct (they will be grounded?) ?
Chandler - the instructions for the wiremold I'm looking at actually show you cutting/splicing into the wires (hot and neutral) that daisy-chain from one receptacle to the next, hence the reason for wirenuts or something else . The reason I also don't want to do a standard receptacle is that I'd like to have more then 2 outlets, also easier to plug stuff in (since they are spread out across the island).
I haven't yet figured out if I'm going to be able to tap into an existing kitchen circuit or will need to run new, but I will make sure it is GFCI protected, 20 Amps. Fortunately I have full access to everything in the basement, but didn't really think about adding the island outlets until after all the other kitchen wiring was re-done 3 years ago (DANG!).
Thanks for the replies from both of you. Tolyn, I'm only about 90 minutes downriver (Mississippi) from you on the Wisconsin side (go Pack!)...
Tolyn pretty much confirmed everything I was asking about - the "green" wire is actually inside the wiremold and daisy-chains from one receptacle to the next. If I use the grounding clip, then I don't have to do anything with the green wire inside the wiremold, correct (they will be grounded?) ?
Chandler - the instructions for the wiremold I'm looking at actually show you cutting/splicing into the wires (hot and neutral) that daisy-chain from one receptacle to the next, hence the reason for wirenuts or something else . The reason I also don't want to do a standard receptacle is that I'd like to have more then 2 outlets, also easier to plug stuff in (since they are spread out across the island).
I haven't yet figured out if I'm going to be able to tap into an existing kitchen circuit or will need to run new, but I will make sure it is GFCI protected, 20 Amps. Fortunately I have full access to everything in the basement, but didn't really think about adding the island outlets until after all the other kitchen wiring was re-done 3 years ago (DANG!).
#5
@ Chandler - He's talking about using a Plugmold multioutlet strip shown here: Wiremold - Plugmold
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Isolated equipment grounds are sometimes used in data processing centers and some areas of hospitals. Isolated grounds offer no advantages in residential systems.
Note: I was replying to a new post that had mentioned using isolated grounds. For some reason that post disappeared.
Note: I was replying to a new post that had mentioned using isolated grounds. For some reason that post disappeared.