need some troubleshooting help

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Old 06-12-09, 12:52 PM
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need some troubleshooting help

Doing some conversion of an old 220vac circuit, wiring it for 110vac.

1. Using the 3 wire circuit tester. Normally, it gives 2 good lights, and none on the third.

2. Do these work on 110 or 220v? Could you get a good indication regardless of applied voltage?

Since mine lit up, I like to think it means I was getting 110. Is this necessarily true?

2. Our window unit a/c has a typical ground fault interupter on the end which plugs into things.

3. If this GFI was getting 220v, would it trip?

4. We had two yellow lights together, and a slight positive reverse ground. We ran the a/c, for maybe 30 seconds.

5. I had to tighten connections, and then tried to run it again.
This time, we had two yellow lights together, and good ground.

7. A/c wouldn't run. I know the power going into it is 110vac, and checks good.

8. Are there problems with the GFI that would cause it not to run? Wonder if there are any other reset switches anywhere (I was thinking maybe the GFI is the only one).

We tried alternate power source, with good circuit tester, and it still wouldn't run.

10. I have the model, and will go find whatever Frigidaire has on it online, to see if there is an operator problem.
 
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Old 06-12-09, 01:01 PM
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Circuit

What changes did you make to the 220 v. circuit?
 
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Old 06-12-09, 01:20 PM
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Was the breaker changed to a single pole breaker? Was the wiring in the panel changed so it would supply 120 volts instead of the 240 volts? Was the receptacle changed to a 120 volt receptacle? How many and what color wires is the receptacle wired with?
 
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Old 06-12-09, 01:28 PM
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The old circuit was three 220v wires. 110-0-110. 220 across.

I just wired 0-110 to get 110vac.
 
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Old 06-12-09, 01:47 PM
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What changes did you make to get the 120 volts?
 
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Old 06-12-09, 01:56 PM
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No changes. Just wired 0-110v to get 110vac at regular socket.
 
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Old 06-12-09, 01:56 PM
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Circuit

What color wires are connected in the service panel and where are they connected?
 
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Old 06-12-09, 02:04 PM
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I'm sorry, but I need answers to my questions.

We're dealing with really old stuff here. The wires are big black ones. The circuit breaker is some distance away.

I really need answers to my questions to help me resolve where I'm at.

I should be able to fault isolate what's wrong, but need specific info to do it.
 
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Old 06-12-09, 02:12 PM
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No changes. Just wired 0-110v to get 110vac at regular socket.
With the exception of changing out the type of receptacle any changes you made to convert to 120v would have had to be made at the breaker box not at the receptacle.
We're dealing with really old stuff here. The wires are big black ones
If you don't have a white wire and if you don't have a green or bare then this circuit can not be converted to 120v. If the breaker is larger then 20 amps it can not be used.

Unless you disconnected one of the two wires connected to the breaker and reconnected it to the neutral buss you did not correctly convert the circuit to 120v. You may have burnt something in the AC out.

From earlier posts it sounds like the circuit was not a 240v air conditioner circuit bur a 120/240v ungrounded circuit for a dryer or cook stove. That kind of circuit can't be converted unless there is continuous metal conduit.
The old circuit was three 220v wires. 110-0-110. 220 across.
 

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Old 06-12-09, 03:37 PM
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Unless you disconnected one of the two wires connected to the breaker and reconnected it to the neutral buss you did not correctly convert the circuit to 120v. You may have burnt something in the AC out.

This is something I'm afraid of.

That's why I was wondering how good the GFI at the plug is at protecting the a/c.

I did have good lights (110 or 220 ???)

I'm in no-wise an electrician. Probably the best we've got, which ain't good.

I'm in an old church, and we have a wide variety of wiring. These units supposedly came into and what seemed to be 220v receptacle. (It's one that looks like an old 110 outlet, with one sideway lug).

If we had 220 across, and 110-0-110, it seems to me we can split it and get 110.
 
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Old 06-12-09, 03:59 PM
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The ground-fault plug on the air conditioner is no good at all for protecting from a 100% overvoltage situation.

I know that you are trying to help your church but there are some rather strict liability issues involved when an "unqualified" (read unlicensed) person does electrical work in anything other than his/her personal home. You would be better off (and so would the church) if instead you contributed a bit of money towards having a licensed electrician do the work.
 
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Old 06-12-09, 04:32 PM
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I do not mean to be rude but from what you have done so far you seem to be only guessing. You could end up costing the church a lot more then you are saving them.
If we had 220 across, and 110-0-110, it seems to me we can split it and get 110
Only if you had three wires plus a ground or continuous metal conduit. I strongly suggest you stop now. Maybe one of the members is an electrician or knows one who would volunteer services.

The plug you describe may be a 20 amp 120v plug.
These units supposedly came into and what seemed to be 220v receptacle. (It's one that looks like an old 110 outlet, with one sideway lug).
 
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Old 06-12-09, 05:54 PM
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Yeah. I think I'm going to have to buy a new unit tomorrow for the church to replace this one. I did my best, and it sure wasn't good enough.

I sure won't work on the plug.

It's a problem. Anyone we call in from outside will probably tell us to bring everything up to code. An impossible feat for us. We literlly don't have anyone who can do this kind of wiring.
 
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Old 06-12-09, 06:33 PM
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While I strongly urge you to leave this to the experts the only safe way is to run new cable from the nearest main panel or subpanel.
 
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Old 06-12-09, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by rbig View Post
It's a problem. Anyone we call in from outside will probably tell us to bring everything up to code. An impossible feat for us. We literlly don't have anyone who can do this kind of wiring.
I doubt it. There are many electrical contractors out there that would just run you a new circuit with out bringing everything up to the new codes.
That is, of course, unless you have some major code violations such as over fused wires. Then they may be required to fix the violations. If you did have said violations, they should be fixed for your safety anyway.
 
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