rough-in inspection help (long island)


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Old 07-15-09, 01:47 PM
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rough-in inspection help (long island)

Hi all

Going thru a major home renovation and am currently in a world of trouble. Our contractor essentially spread himself too thin financially and the last payment we gave him was for electric supplies/installation. He is out of money. Work was never done, and supplies never purchased. Now that I have calmed down, I will be dealing with him .In the meantime work had to get done. I have done lots of wiring, but basic stuff like running new home runs for new lights etc etc. I bought everything and went to work. I just dont have money to hire another electrician now.

I have the whole house wired now. boxes are all in, but no switches or outlets or appliances. The only lights i have installed are recessed lighting that inspector asked be installed. I wired them up, but left boxes open. Plenty of outlets . I have no breakers in panel box . panel box is labeled. all appliances in kitchen have dedicated circuits. have gfci in all required locations. smoke alarms are all in. I followed NEC the best i could understand it.

My buddy is an electrician with the railroad, but not licensed for residential. He says wiring an office or a station is the same as a house!He came by the other day and said the work was neat and safe. He says I am ready for the rough inspection, and I should quit panicking.

My question is...What are the biggest mistakes people like me make? What could I be overlooking. Dont suggest books...I have them, and from what i read in the NEC I am doing OK.

Sorry if i rambled, but my mind is spinning as i write this.
 

Last edited by pcboss; 07-15-09 at 07:50 PM.
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Old 07-15-09, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by silverado
My question is...What are the biggest mistakes people like me make? What could I be overlooking.
Hmm, the biggest mistakes at rough inspection are probably:

1) grounds not made up with wirenuts or crimps
2) receptacle location / spacing issues (6'/12' for living spaces or 2'/4' on kitchen countertops)
3) cable stapling and support violations (cables run through bored holes, staples near boxes where necessary)
4) lack of nailing plates / cable protection issues (cables too close to framing surface)
5) wiring covered by drywall or insulation

You generally do not need to have any breakers or fixtures installed at rough inspection except recessed lights.
 
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Old 07-15-09, 04:52 PM
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I know it may be presumptuous, but you do have a permit for this, right? I know it sounds obvious since you are calling for an inspection, but your contractor is gone, and we want to make sure of things.
To add to Ben's list:
6) not leaving about 8" of wire in boxes for make-up.
7) installing junction boxes in potentially hidden areas.
8) grounding wires not attached to metal boxes.
9) mixing cable sizes in single runs
 
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Old 07-15-09, 07:53 PM
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I would also add the need to keep circuits like the small appliance, laundry and bathroom receptacles free of other loads that are prohibited by the NEC.
 
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Old 07-16-09, 09:23 AM
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thanks for everyones suggestions. I do not need an electrical specific permit. I do have a construction permit. In this jurisdiction homeowners can do any of there own work. The inspection is done by a private inspector/underwriter who approves it. They do a rough and a final. They then issue an electrical certificate.

I have no junction boxes, and kept it pretty simple.

I called the inspector and they were helpful, but as expected its not there job to walk me through the job. He did say that if i happen to fail the rough, I have 30 days to contact them with my intentions and or have a new inspection. As long as I contact them in regards to violations, they do not notify the town. Guy basically said pay attention to grounds, dedicated circuits, staples and being consistent with the wire size throughout a circuit.

I'm starting to relax. The work is neat.
 
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Old 07-16-09, 06:15 PM
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Also remember that most inspectors want you to pass. If they find anything minor (which they always do) they will point it out and likely just expect you to fix it - and still pass you. Obviously if there's anything horribly wrong, the won't give you a pass, but they should give you specific instructions as to what's wrong.

No need to worry. As long as you're smart on the code requirements for what you're wiring, you'll be all set. Worst case, you'll have to have a second inspection.
 
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Old 07-16-09, 06:54 PM
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Sounds to me like to have a pretty good handle on what you are doing and it sounds like you have paged through the NEC which is more than a lot people have done.

The others posts pretty much cover most things but here is a couple of more suggestions:

Make sure all your cable is at least 1 1/4" away from the nailing face of the stud. This includes where it enters that boxes. Do not put the cable in the hole closest to the stud face because that is closer than 1 1/4". If you did do this just get some nail plates to protect the cable. (See Ibpooks #4)

This has nothing to do with the inspection but I also suggest if you have any 3 ways to twist the travelers together and then wrap the common wire around the twisted travelers. It will then be easy to tell how your 3-way goes after the rock is on.

Another one is for your GFCI's. IF you are feeding some receptacle's down stream off a GFCI, strip the line side wires. You will then know that they go to the line of the GFCI and the other set goes to the load.

Good luck! Let us know how it goes.
 
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Old 07-16-09, 07:09 PM
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A few more common problems I see at inspections of new construction / kitchen remodels.

1) If there is a island or peninsula, make sure that you have made provision for appropriately located receptacle outlet(s).

2) Around here, most AHJs require a dedicated circuit for a range hood, undercounter microwave or microwave/range hood.

3) Depending on your area, there may be requirements that the primary kitchen lighting be energy efficient (i.e. florescent).

4) Make sure that you have correctly located power for dishwashers / food waste grinders / instant hot water heaters etc. and appropriate disconnects as required.

5) If there are multiple entrances to the kitchen, make sure the primary lighting is switched at each entrance as required.

-----------

Home Inspection: "A business with illogically high liability, slim profit margins and limited economies of scale. An incredibly diverse, multi-disciplined consulting service, delivered under difficult in-field circumstances, before a hostile audience in an impossibly short time frame, requiring the production of an extraordinarily detailed technical report, almost instantly, without benefit of research facilities or resources." - Alan Carson
 
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Old 07-16-09, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Michael Thomas
5) If there are multiple entrances to the kitchen, make sure the primary lighting is switched at each entrance as required.
Just as a FYI, the above is a good way to wire with switches at each entrance of a space but it is not a requirement of the NEC.

210.70(A)(1)(2005) Habitable Rooms At least one wall switch-controlled lighting outlet (meaning fixture or receptacle (exception 1)) shall be installed in every habitable room and bathroom.

As you can see only one is required unless the NEC is amended in your area.
 
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Old 07-17-09, 04:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Tolyn Ironhand
Just as a FYI, the above is a good way to wire with switches at each entrance of a space but it is not a requirement of the NEC.

210.70(A)(1)(2005) Habitable Rooms At least one wall switch-controlled lighting outlet (meaning fixture or receptacle (exception 1)) shall be installed in every habitable room and bathroom.

As you can see only one is required unless the NEC is amended in your area.
That's why my post said "as required", (in this case "if required" would probably have been clearer) around here the AHJs (I inspect in more than 50 separate jurisdictions) are sometimes going to require switching at two significantly distant entrances to a kitchen (or bathroom serving two bedrooms).

Pressed for a reason they will tell you "same logic as the requirement for hallways and stairways".
 
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Old 07-17-09, 08:40 AM
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I agree that it makes perfect sense to put switches at all entrances to a room. I just wanted to point out that it is not required by the NEC. Also, we just went over that exact point in my continuing education class which actuality surprised me.

Carry on.
 
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Old 07-17-09, 12:48 PM
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Describe "habitable". Would "uninhabitable" be, like my son's bedroom when he was growing up? Or like my workshop in it's present state of disarray? I'm sure I know, just messing with you.
 
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Old 07-17-09, 04:32 PM
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Hmmm..I also see no defintion for "habitable" in NFPA 70.
 
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Old 07-18-09, 07:08 AM
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A habitable room is defined by exclusion, usually along the lines of "any room used for sleeping, living or dining purposes, excluding such enclosed places as kitchens, closets, pantries, bath or toilet rooms, hallways, laundries, storage spaces, utility rooms, and similar spaces."
 
 

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