Steel Building Power

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Old 10-04-09, 09:02 AM
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Steel Building Power

I want to install a light fixture and an outlet in a steel building that is approximately 60 feet from the main house. I have an existing unused 20 amp breaker in the main panel. Can I run an underground 12/2 cable to the building for the light fixture and the outlet? Do I need to do anything else for grounding or bonding since the building is metal?

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Old 10-04-09, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by shick33 View Post
I want to install a light fixture and an outlet in a steel building that is approximately 60 feet from the main house. I have an existing unused 20 amp breaker in the main panel. Can I run an underground 12/2 cable to the building for the light fixture and the outlet? Do I need to do anything else for grounding or bonding since the building is metal?

Thanks!
Will this luminaire will be inside or outside ? that will make the differnce how it will mount it up and have proper bonding with ground conductor.

For metal building normally I use the metal juction box but if you have wood post or wood studs it will be little more tricky to bond it but need little more info due there are quite few ways to do it in legit way.

Yeah you will need GFCI no question asked so run the 12-2 to the GFCI first then after that you can have the switch for the luminaire then the recetpcale on GFCI { by the way if you are on 2008 NEC code requirement all the garage and shed everything have to be GFCI'ed ( only with 120 volts circuit )}

Merci,Marc
 
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Old 10-04-09, 11:14 AM
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What Marc said. Plus, do you ever see the need for more receptacles, etc. in the building? If so, now is the time to run a 240 volt circuit to a sub panel and then to the lights and gfci, or gfci breaker. Just something to chew on.
 
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Old 10-04-09, 01:29 PM
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The light will be inside the building and will be a 4' fluorescent surface mounted. I may want to add another outlet or two later but did not want to have to set another panel, etc. if I could just use the 20 amp breaker I already have. How many outlets and/or light fixtures can I have on the 20 amp circuit? There is not any wood---all steel beams with galvanized metal exterior.

Thanks!
 
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Old 10-04-09, 02:46 PM
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A 60 foot run of #12 UF fed from a 20 ampere circuit breaker would yield about 15 amperes capacity at the building. A twin-tube shop light will be about 100 watts or 0.8 amperes.
 
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Old 10-04-09, 02:51 PM
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I would not do this without installing a sub panel. If it were my barn I would want more light, more power... why do the job twice when you can do it right the first time?
 
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Old 10-04-09, 05:00 PM
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Thanks for all the feedback. The building is used only to store tractor, atv's, lawn equipment, and a jeep. We plan to build another building for a shop, etc. and will at that time install a sub panel. Only other question I have is when the feed comes into the building will the GFCI be the first outlet and does it need to be in a metal junction box? Will this take care of the grounding and bonding issue?
 
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Old 10-04-09, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by shick33 View Post
Thanks for all the feedback. The building is used only to store tractor, atv's, lawn equipment, and a jeep. We plan to build another building for a shop, etc. and will at that time install a sub panel. Only other question I have is when the feed comes into the building will the GFCI be the first outlet and does it need to be in a metal junction box? Will this take care of the grounding and bonding issue?
Ok that make sense here .,

Yes you use the metal junction box and use the grounding screw on the box for it and it will serve as bonding for whole structure.

Merci,Marc
 
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Old 10-05-09, 09:02 AM
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I also should mention that you need a vertical piece of conduit to protect the UF cable from the bottom of the trench to the junction box. Use a 90 sweep at the bottom of the trench and go right up into the bottom of the box. You should do the same thing on the house side where the cable enters the trench.

If you extend the wiring further into the building, any wiring lower than about 7' should also be sleeved in conduit for protection. Bare cable will break open very easily if you accidentally bump it with the tractor or ATV.

PVC conduit would be okay, but I would probably use galvanized EMT and metal boxes with raised covers to match the internal structure of the building.
 
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