Jacuzzi Whirlpool Tub and Rapid Heater wiring


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Old 10-30-09, 08:48 AM
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Jacuzzi Whirlpool Tub and Rapid Heater wiring

I am installing a new Jacuzzi Espree Whirlpool tub with the Rapid Heater option. Currently, I have a single elictrical run for the existing tub we are replacing, so it would seem logical to use that circuit for the tub motor/blower. The instructions for the heater indicated to run a separate circuit, GFI protected. Also, the heater instructions indicated that the heater is to be bonded per local code.

I have read through many post on similar questions and want to make sure my conslusions are correct.

All replies indicated it would be prudent to run a second circuit to supply power to the heater, no problem, I'll do that. But, I have a question on wheather I can tie in to an existing power line that is close to the tub area and is GFI protected, or do I need to run a dedicated line from the breaker panel?

The second question is on the bonding instruction. If I understand correctly, the term bond is in reference to connecting the heater to metal sources around the tub, which in the case would be copper water lines supplying to the facuets and tub spout. In this case, would it be correct to connect the indicated terminal on the heater to the copper pipeing?

Thanks,

Jim
 
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Old 10-30-09, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by 65Mustang View Post
do I need to run a dedicated line from the breaker panel?
Yes a dedicated circuit is required, usually 20A with #12 wire. GFCI protection must be provided.

copper water lines supplying to the facuets and tub spout. In this case, would it be correct to connect the indicated terminal on the heater to the copper pipeing?
Yes that is correct. You also need to bond the blower, pump, control box and any other type of device inside the tub if they are metal and have bonding lugs. Many tubs have all of the internal components already bonded at the factory, but if not you need to do that. If the pump and blower is marked as "double-insulated" and has a plastic shell bonding is not required. The plumbing only needs to be bonded at the incoming hot and cold copper supply lines; brass pipe bonding clamps are available in the electrical aisle. The waste line should also be bonded if it is all metal -- a short metal decorative piece or pop-up assembly does not require bonding. The bonding wire should be bare solid #8 copper (stranded not allowed).
 
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Old 10-31-09, 10:30 AM
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What is the Wattage rating of the heater?.


Art 250.110 requires that an equiptment fastened in placed be connected to the circuit Equiptment Grounding Conductor.

If the "indicated terminal" on the heater is either a "Green terminal screw with a 'hex' head" , or a "Green terminal nut" , then it's " the terminal for the connection of the Equipment Grounding Conductor."

Neithr metallic pipe , or a metallic tubing , is an "Approved Equiptment Grounding Conductor"
 
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Old 11-02-09, 10:49 AM
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Thanks for the replies.

The wattage is not listed anywhere in the instructions or on the heater. It is rated at 120v and 12.5 amps, so I would guess the wattage is 1500 watts.

This is the verbatim descripton for the Electrical Connection installation instructions.

Install a separate 120VAC 15AMP dedicated circuit with GFIC protection. Using a #8 solid copper wire (included), bond the heater as per approved local bonding codes. A bonding lug is provided on the heater.

The lug appears to be an aluminum bracket with a screw threaded into a hole to fasten the copper wire.

Again, thanks for your replies.

Jim
 
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Old 11-04-09, 07:49 AM
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Please know that there is a distiction between "Bonding" and "Equiptment Grounding".
Each has a seperate section in the National Electrical Code.

The metal frame / enclosure of water-heater , an "Equiptment" , must be Grounded by a connection to an Equiptment Grounding Condutor.

The "Bonding" section of the Code requires that Non-Equipment metallic surfaces that may be "energized" be Grounded by a "Bonding" connection.
 
 

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